Setting up TS55

[skronk]

Hi all,

Got this last week and I intend to play later today.

Have seen a few videos, but some are a wee bit contradictory....what I would like to know before I start.

1.The initial trim depth for splinter guard.
2.Do both green cams have to be on the rail at start and finish of cut, effectively leaving 2 uncut bits at beginning and end of track.
3.When trimming small green splinter guard is the depth set to max. and the saw simply plunged down.
4.Do both these operations need a sacrificial piece of wood below the rail or can it be done with rail overhanging work table.
5.What speed should be selected.

Just want to be sure befor I make a total ***** of it !!!!

Thanks

 

[Ed Bray]

All you questions are answered here (pages 7 & 8)

http://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/Fes ... Manual.pdf

There is pretty much a supplemental manual for almost all Festools and they are far and beyond anything that Festool provide with the tool.

 

[skronk]

All you questions are answered here (pages 7 & 8)

http://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/Fes ... Manual.pdf

There is pretty much a supplemental manual for almost all Festools and they are far and beyond anything that Festool provide with the tool.

Yes Ed, I have read the manual, however Festool vids on Youtube are at odds with the manual, suggesting full depth for initial trim, and motor speed of 3 on one vid and 6 on the other !!!

Where does initial trim cut start....with whole saw on rail or cams only ?

Hence my questions

 

[Roughcut]

You don't need to go full depth with the first cut.
Usually just about 2mm or so below the thickness of the material you are cutting.
First thing to do is set the saw on the rail and adjust the cams front and back so the saw glides smoothly on the track but there is no side to side wobble, this is important.
Then set your depth of cut.
The splinter guard strip will be cut from where the saw starts cutting on the track until the end where you saw stops.
There will be some strip at the beginning of the track and likely at the end which will not be cut because of where the cut starts and finishes.
It should all become clear when you start using it.

 

[shed9]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XqXJ9JNjgV4

Appreciate this is probably the video you have seen however I suspect there have been some corners cut in line with it being a simple demo. I cut the guard in one go start to finish with no issues, at minimal depth and half speed.

 

[HOJ]

In my experience, I have always made the first run using a piece of ply, or mdf, blade set for clearance, top speed.
It will leave bits at the end, but over time, when I connected more rails together they were cut back.

Saw must be on track, had a couple of occasions where I was hanging off and got kick back taking a lump out the rail.

Adjustable splinter guard touching surface of material, probably won't on fist trim as it will land on splinter guard strip.

I also have different rails for different blades, my rip blade has a bigger kerf, so will re cut the splinter guard again,
making it a pain to align when using a finer blade.

 

[Ed Bray]

All you questions are answered here (pages 7 & 8)

http://www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/Fes ... Manual.pdf

There is pretty much a supplemental manual for almost all Festools and they are far and beyond anything that Festool provide with the tool.

Yes Ed, I have read the manual, however Festool vids on Youtube are at odds with the manual, suggesting full depth for initial trim, and motor speed of 3 on one vid and 6 on the other !!!

Where does initial trim cut start....with whole saw on rail or cams only ?

Hence my questions

That link I provided is not the to the standard manual but rather to the supplemental manual which is sponsored separately by Festool USA. I used the method stated there and had absolutely no issues and with a perfect cut, but, I never had a problem with the start and finish as I have 3 rails so just joined them all together and ran the saw up the middle one, then changed the position of the remaining tracks to put each of the others in the middle to ensure all edges were cut the same.

Have you considered asking this question on the FOG?

 

[skronk]

I only have one track 1400mm, so the saw should sit completely on the track at rip of splinter guard, then stop completely on the track at end ????

Thanks

 

[Ed Bray]

Still worth asking on FOG

 

[JJ1]

I only have one track 1400mm, so the saw should sit completely on the track at rip of splinter guard, then stop completely on the track at end ????

Yes.

 

[skronk]

I only have one track 1400mm, so the saw should sit completely on the track at rip of splinter guard, then stop completely on the track at end ????

Yes.

Thanks to all. Bit the bullet......set depth to 7mm and speed to 5. Worked a treat. Many thanks.

Can I as why you would not always use the wee green splinter guard, as in leave it on permanently ?

 

[Dutch]

It would be in the way for bevel cuts

 

[skronk]

It would be in the way for bevel cuts

Thanks.......obvious now