Scheppach Tiger 200

[Drew]

Hi
I've just seen the Scheppach Tiger 200 on sale for £110 at Screwfix. Can anybody tell me what they are like in use. How do they compare with the tormek etc. Or does anybody have any thoughts on these. I don't want to go throwing away over a hundred quid on rubbish.

All the best

Drew

 

[Ironballs]

I assume you mean the Tiger 2000, it works fine and funnily enough very similar to a Tormek! Happy with mine

 

[chippy1970]

I just took a look the title says tiger 200 but the picture is a tiger 2000.

Just had a quick google cannot find a 200 so it must be a 2000 they are selling pretty good price as it comes up at £125 at D&M tools.

They sell a 2000s which is new so they must be clearing the old 2000 models maybe.

I think I asked about these a year or 2 ago on here do a search see what you can find.

 

[Dave S]

I just took a look the title says tiger 200 but the picture is a tiger 2000.

Just had a quick google cannot find a 200 so it must be a 2000 they are selling pretty good price as it comes up at £125 at D&M tools.

They sell a 2000s which is new so they must be clearing the old 2000 models maybe.

I think I asked about these a year or 2 ago on here do a search see what you can find.

Not quite - the 2000 has a metal body - the 2000s has a plastic body. I have the 2000s which I got for £99.

There have been a couple of threads here about the Scheppach. Personally I'm not sure I would buy again. The hole in the stone on mine was not straight so the stone wobbled. The instructions state that the stone needs to be trued before use, but the diamond truing device does not come with the grinder. It costs best part of £40.

I managed to make a jig to mount a normal diamond truing tool and used this to true the wheel. It now works fine, but I use it the same way as David Charlesworth uses his Tormek - just for grinding the primary bevel.
I also don't move the bar at all between dressings because it is tricky to keep parallel to the surface of the wheel. I alter the projection of the blades to control grinding angle.

Now it is set up it does the job I need it to do. It was an impulse buy, though, and I'm not sure I would buy it again. That said, I would not be inclined to go for the Tormek either. I would probably search out a hand cranked dry grinding wheel instead as it would be sufficient for my modest needs.

Dave

 

[tekno.mage]

I bought an ex-demo Tiger 2000 about 2 months ago for just under £70 and am very pleased with it. After sharpening some spokeshave & plane blades with the supplied flat blade jig, I then spent nearly twice the cost of the machine on the Tormek Woodturners kit of jigs to go with it - which has been a very good investment (I've still to modify the Tormek narrow leather honing wheels to fit the Tiger - all the other Tormek jigs & parts in the kit work fine - even the Tormek machine cover fits).

I've used a friend's Tormek and although the machine it's better finished & has a few minor features the Tiger doesn't have I don't think this justifies the massive difference in price! The Tormek jigs probably are worth the money as they are well made and I find them very easy to use.

My friend suggested I upgrade the supplied wheel to a Microcrystalline grit type as I am mainly using the machine for HSS bowl gouges & yes, I was wearing groves in the original "soft" wheel - he did the same for his Tormek.

I ordered the new Microcrystalline wheel (just under £60 from Peter Childs) a couple of weeks back before the prices go up like everything seems to be at the moment. I keep the original "softer" wheel for use with flat carbon steel blades - & it's simple enough to swap the wheels when required.

I had no problem trueing & dressing the original wheel with a matrix diamond dresser hand-held on the grinding platform - the new Microcrystalline wheel has not yet required this and shows no signs of wear despite having repeatedly sharpened several bowl gouges.

One tip I would pass on for any wet grinder;

Use Honerite Gold in the water - yes, it is expensive, & yes it colours the water a truely virulent bright green, but it really does work. It's like magic - water that doesn't make steel go rusty! The benefit is not just to the tool you are grinding, but to anything nearby on the bench that might get splashed and to the wet grinder itself, especially when sharpening wide blades as the water can sometimes splash onto the shaft and bearing.

I have my Tiger 2000 standing in a cheap plastic tray with a lip which both helps to minimise mess and also stops small items like my marker pen, slipstones, etc falling on the floor.

tekno.mage