Scary sharp !!!!

[dann]

At Harrogate show I got some 3m scary sharp sheets and I've just sharpened and honed my new 2" ashley iles bevel chisel and, without going all 15 year girl OMG!!
I've never had such an edge, I finished the bevel and back to a mirrow Finnish it's as sharp as my cut throat razor..
Might ditch the faffy whetstones after all
:shock: =D>

 

[undergroundhunter]

Scary sharp is good for sharp edges but the films tear really really easily! I have tried them and went off them I have just ordered some diamond stones as in the long run I think it will be more cost effective in the long run and (according to Mr Sellers) if used with a strop the edges are just as sharp. I have also gone off micro bevels in favour for a convex bevel (quicker for me), please lets not turn this into a who has the best sharpening method thread as its not how you get there but the edge that matters. I had this discussion with Peter Sefton @ the Harrowgate show.

Matt

 

[Kalimna]

Mod Edit


Adam.

P.s. Glad you have an edge you're happy with - tis a nice feeling

 

[paul saunders]

Freehand or was a jig involved :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Sent from my AN10BG3 using Tapatalk 2

 

[dann]

A veratas mkII honing jig was involved!
It was peter who put me on to it, I think I'll give the films a go for a while and see how long they last

 

[Peter Sefton]

It was good to meet and talk to you guys over the weekend, when the Scary Sharp is used with the Veritas MK11 it should give very good results. Dann it will be interesting to see how long our Scary sharp lasts - did I show you the magnet trick, the Industrial will last longer than the original Imperial lapping films which do need more care and technique to use. The industrial was developed for micro finishing of metals rather than polishing fibre optics and is therefore more robust in all areas. Matt Diamond stones can be very good and like all tools do need individual techniques to get the best out of them and care to keep them at peak performance.
Cheers Peter

 

[tobytools]

I've also used the scary sharp with the mk2, good results, the sheets do tear so I just went on the pull stroke,

Saying that it's not a system I use now, not saying the scary sharp isn't right. just for me I have my own way as we all do

Keep up the sharp edges

TT

 

[bugbear]

.. just as sharp.

The actual sharpness is purely dependant on the degree of finish on the two surfaces that meet to form the edge.

Mod Edit

BugBear

 

[dann]

Peter, Ive flattened the backs, sharpened and honed 11 brand new chisels using 2 strips each grade cut to 2/18" wide of scary sharp thats pretty good if you ask me! =D>

 

[nicguthrie]

First time I tried it, I had the same reaction

I must admit though, using Flexcut wax and a strop made of just about anything flat, gives a lovely finished edge too. I'll often keep a piece of planed pine rubbed with the stropping wax beside my chisels if I'm trying to do really precise work, and give them a little hone every so often on that. The chrome vanadium steel set of chisels I have are not the most impressive at holding their edge, so it comes in handy, and it takes less steel off at a stroke, so it's somewhat more forgiving of my inept freehand technique than diamond stones - though I keep an Extra fine DMT stone in my pocket too!

Always be prepared as they say :wink:

Nic.

PS all these mod edits, is that the mod stopping World (Sharpening) War 3 starting?

 

[Fromey]

Scary sharp has been my most reliable method of sharpening and so my favourite. Now that the sheets come in a thicker form, I've had no more problems with tearing. Very economical also; the only sheets I seem to need to replace are the coarsest grade (100 micron?)

 

[bugbear]

Scary sharp has been my most reliable method of sharpening and so my favourite. Now that the sheets come in a thicker form, I've had no more problems with tearing. Very economical also; the only sheets I seem to need to replace are the coarsest grade (100 micron?)

In most brands, it's the super fine grades that are expensive, so it's the cheap one that wear the most. Super fine sheet abrasives are quite the bargain, since all the other super fine abrasives - waterstones, oilstones (e.g. Arkansas) and ceramic stones are all very expensive.

BugBear

 

[Fromey]

In most brands, it's the super fine grades that are expensive, so it's the cheap one that wear the most. Super fine sheet abrasives are quite the bargain, since all the other super fine abrasives - waterstones, oilstones (e.g. Arkansas) and ceramic stones are all very expensive.

BugBear

Agreed. All the grades are effectively the same price and one uses the super fine grades quite sparingly (light pressure and not many strokes) so they last for ages. No flattening, soaking, etc. required. When they eventually wear out, just whip it off and put another sheet down.

One sheet can easily be cut into 3 useful sections and each will last, and last. e.g., All of my sheets (except the 100 micron) are still in fine fettle after about 9 months of use! And I've been commissioning a lot of new tools during that process so more than usual back flattening duties, etc.

Let's see, if I get a system of 100 micron for aggressive work, 40 micron for intermediate, 15 micron for polishing, and either 0.3, 1 or 5 micron for silly polishing, that's a total outlay of about £15 from WH. I can easily cut each sheet into 3 useful pieces. Each one of these (except the 100micron) is going to last me (a hobbyist) at least 6 months of use (and that's being pessimistic). So about 1.5 years from that outlay.

If I buy an equivalent set of waterstones from WH (220, 1000, 4000 and 10,000), that's about £170 (not including P&P). That equates to about 11 years of scary sharp paper. Granted, the waterstones might last longer than that and I will have to replace the 100 micron more often, but I don't have to soak, flatten, etc.

To me, that sounds like a no-brainer.