Sawn Timber thick or thin ?

[Giff]

I am making some wardrobe doors and as they will be painted have decided to use poplar (tulip). My finished section will be about 70mm x 20mm and I was intending to use sawn timber approx 150mm x 50mm (or 63mm) and ripping and planing it to size. I have been offered 150mm x 25mm as an option. The question is will the thinner stock be as stable or would I have more problems with cupping and twisting. Any advice would be welcome. Thanks Geoff

 

[Saxwood]

Probably not going to be as stable tbh ;o)

 

[Teckel]

I usually make my doors 22mm thick. I get this from inch planks.
Tulip wood is pretty stable.
Why not use mr mdf. You get it in 22mm thick and all you have to do is cut to size. No plaining and perfect for painting.

 

[Giff]

I thought of MDF Teckel but want a fairly traditional look and was worried about hinges like butts in MDF. Geoff

 

[Teckel]

I thought of MDF Teckel but want a fairly traditional look and was worried about hinges like butts in MDF. Geoff

Best go with solid if you use butts alright..

 

[Tony Spear]

If you rip 50/63mm. in half, I would have thought that stress release is likely to give you some stability problems.

Buying it at 25mm. means that you can at least select suitable boards without that concern.

 

[Jacob]

I am making some wardrobe doors and as they will be painted have decided to use poplar (tulip). My finished section will be about 70mm x 20mm and I was intending to use sawn timber approx 150mm x 50mm (or 63mm) and ripping and planing it to size. I have been offered 150mm x 25mm as an option. The question is will the thinner stock be as stable or would I have more problems with cupping and twisting. Any advice would be welcome. Thanks Geoff

25mm stock will be much more stable than ripping 50mm, without a shadow of a doubt.

 

[Giff]

Thanks for the answers. The 25mm option will save a lot of time as well so I will go with that.. Geoff