Saw blades arbor hole conversion.

[Shivers]

I have a nice number of table saw & mitre saw blades i'd like to get the arbor hole size changed over to euro sizes.If they were not such nice blades i wouldn't bother.

4 amana 72 tooth 12"(1"arbor hole),

5 systimatic(various teeth count)10"(five 8th's arbor hole)
1 delta atb(60 tooth) 10"(5 8th's arbor hole)

systimatic fine dado set(5 8th's arbor hole)

Is it feasible to get these machined from the existing arbor hole size over to a metric euro equivalent ?.

Theres quite an outlay of money in these & it's a shame at the moment to see them sitting idle.

One thing i remember about the dewalt mitre saw i had was that there is a flange that could be turned around allowing either a 1" or 5-8th's blade to be fitted,---do the euro models also do this ?.if so should i purchase a euro model & order a spare flange from america .(or are there other mitre saws that also do this already available here in euro).
The dewalts are ok but i'd prefere something more hardwearing,so i'm trying to avoid buying another.

Apart from the dado set,i'm also considering having all the above converted to 30mm arbor & having a bushing reducer made at 16mm.

are these sensible thoughts or should i just forget about it?.

Theres probably £700-800 worth of blades here if i had to buy then again.

regards.

 

[wrightclan]

Nah, I don't think it's worth it. I'll just have to do you a favour and take all those rubbish blades off your hands. :wink:

Seriously though, I don't see why you couldn't get the blade holes accurately enlarged by a machinist. I don't know anything about the DeWalt Mitre Saw, but my Makita (LS1040) actually has a 5/8" arbour. There may be others that have a 5/8" arbour, and you could easily get a 1" to 5/8" reducer. Do you have a tablesaw, or are you in the market for one? If you're in the market, I think Excaliburs have a 5/8" option. My old Startrite has a 5/8" arbour. Again, there may be others.

Another idea, given the number of blades you have, (and perhaps you may want to buy more from North America in the future), is you may consider approaching a machinist to make you an arbour for whatever machine you have, or any machine you decide to buy.

If you decide to sell any, I may be interested in one of your 12" Amanas, and/or your Systimatic dado set. :wink:

Brad

 

[Shivers]

"Nah, I don't think it's worth it. I'll just have to do you a favour and take all those rubbish blades off your hands. :wink"

How did i know someone would say that-yep they are a miserable set of blades.

"but my Makita (LS1040) actually has a 5/8" arbour. There may be others that have a 5/8" arbour, and you could easily get a 1" to 5/8" reducer."

Didn't realize 5-8th's were sold over here anymore --shall investigate.

" Do you have a tablesaw, or are you in the market for one? If you're in the market, I think Excalibur's have a 5/8" option. My old Startrite has a 5/8" arbour. Again, there may be others. "

Again shall wear sherlock deerstalker

"Another idea, given the number of blades you have, (and perhaps you may want to buy more from North America in the future)"

Have a few contacts over there so this is the most viable option.

"is you may consider approaching a machinist to make you an arbour for whatever machine you have, or any machine you decide to buy."

Good idea,-would probably be cheaper than having all the blades redone.

"If you decide to sell any, I may be interested in one of your 12" Amana's, and/or your Systimatic dado set. :wink:"

WOT my amana's nooooooo, as you know the systimatic dado set costa packet,based upon your idea of getting an arbor redone ---it's probably worth doing this based upon avoiding purchasing a new set alone.



Another lightbulb i just had whilst mulling over your suggestions,is too check into any mitre saws & see if the flange comes off,--if so i can buy an extra & get it machined down to take the 1".This mat apply to quite a variety of brands/models,--i shall see.


Hey that was great info--i love Cucumbering around & changing machinery,
It's nice to know i have some options,-- cheers.

I must improve my editing skills.lol.


regards.

 

[wrightclan]

Didn't realize 5-8th's were sold over here anymore --shall investigate.

You may have to take a close look at the flange of any mitre saw. Don't just go by the advertised specs of the machine. IIRC, my Makita was advertised as having a 30mm arbour. In fact it had a 5/8" (or 16mm) arbour and a 30mm to 5/8" reducer/bushing.

Brad

 

[Shivers]

Didn't realize 5-8th's were sold over here anymore --shall investigate.

You may have to take a close look at the flange of any mitre saw. Don't just go by the advertised specs of the machine. IIRC, my Makita was advertised as having a 30mm arbour. In fact it had a 5/8" (or 16mm) arbour and a 30mm to 5/8" reducer/bushing.

Brad

Thats what i noticed on the Dewalt,i must have had it for 2 years before one day i noticed the rear flange wasn't pressed in place & was a very close fit,i took it off & low & behold it could be used the other way round @ 5/8's, there was nothing in the manual about this.

regards .

 

[wrightclan]

Just had another thought. What about approaching a British sawblade manufacturer to bore the holes in the blades? They would already have machinery set up for just this purpose and may be able to accommodate you. Perhaps someone else could recommend a manufacturer in your neck of the woods. (If indeed there are any.)

Brad

 

[Shivers]

Just had another thought. What about approaching a British sawblade manufacturer to bore the holes in the blades? They would already have machinery set up for just this purpose and may be able to accommodate you. Perhaps someone else could recommend a manufacturer in your neck of the woods.

Brad

I think part of the problem there is that it turns out expensive because the plate is usually hardened after the arbor hole has been made,so any subsequent machining has to be done with high grade tooling ect,no doubt it can be done but the blade plate would be a lot harder than say a flange or an arbor, so having an arbor or flange machined vs 9-10 blades is the most sensible option now i think about it more----thats ok though --as i can just tool up with usa made blades ,---no big deal.

even if i have to strip a mitre saw to achieve this --thats ok too.


cheers.

 

[wrightclan]

...because the plate is usually hardened after the arbor hole has been made...

cheers.

Good point. Hadn't thought of that. #-o

Brad

 

[Shivers]

...because the plate is usually hardened after the arbor hole has been made...

cheers.

Good point. Hadn't thought of that. #-o

Brad

Another quandry might be blade profiles,most sharpening services are set up in thier own way,& nowadays "some" have cnc controlled machines that have to be programed & any subseqent unknown profiles that have to be punched in may cost(who knows) ,another thing i have to find out is if uk guys adhere or know of usa profile tech,as any blades i submitt to a uk sharpening service might be deemed archiac or highly unusual,----i've been there before where a sharpening guy said -"yep no problem"--then proceeded to totally ruin my blade(just giving me the profile they wanted too because they couldn't be bothered to change the machine setup) ,I have a couple of horror stories in this department.
All of this can be found out of course,but i know from experience that you can leave written instructions with the blade/even write on the blade it's self --& still it's been done wrong,LOL.

Just to add this in out of intrest the delta blade is probably the best blade i have used--it's really a Stehle with a delta badge etched on it.


cheers again.