Resawing - Japanese saw options

Help Support

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
there are some japanese saws that CAN be sharpened, but they are a lot more expensive, I have one that's excellent made from blue paper steel that I got from, amazing ryobi saw, sharpening it however is extremely challenging and you need a special japanese saw file.
I have been very impressed with the Niwaki tools including their saws.


that will work well for resharpenable saws. Some of the impulse hardened teeth may not totally kill it, either, but if they shine the tips (damage the teeth on it), you can use something like this:
the quality often does not match the pictures, but they're usually good enough to get by with without spending $35 on a japanese version. At least good enough to sharpen a black-toothed saw's tip several times. I've used them to resharpen coarse tooth bimetal portaband blades in a pinch, but those are a pain to sharpen and dremel tool with a diamond wheel is plenty good enough. A dremel with a wheel is a bit risky for a disposable handsaw, though - the amount of work done on the combination types is so small with the top facet only that it's literally a couple of minutes at the most.
Have you seen kerfing saws / planes? If not, take a look at those and see if you think they would work for you

@Dr Al has a nice example on his website CGTK - Kerfing Saw

Although he won't be needing it now he's bought his big bandsaw :)
Yeah, I've been doing a lot of resawing lately and it was getting old fast. The kerfing saw (more recently I've used another one that was uses a Stanley 55 as a basis, giving the advantage of a fence either side) makes it a heck of a lot easier, but it's still a chore.
Thanks for the replies and ideas. Soneone mentioned ManShed, unfortunately the closest one to me is only open during the week while I'm at work.

After much to-ing and fro-ing in my mind about what to do, I decided to bite the bullet, get a traditional saw and learn to sharpen. It delays my plan to start making stuff but I figured I'm better off learning this skill sooner rather than later.

A few searches on Gumtree and found this saw available with a detour on my journey home. No makers mark but the lovely elderly couple who sold it to me said it belonged to the wife's mother's family and was over 100 years old. Even better for me, it looks to have 5tpi set up and to my untrained eye only needs some leveling and sharpening.

Taking advantage of my time spent, I inquired if they had any other tools in the hope they had a hand plane lying around which I could convert to a scrub plane. No such luck but they pulled out a tenon saw and dovetail saw. No maker's mark on either but the tenon is marked Sheffield on the brass plate.

Not a bad buy for £20 I think.

I thought I was done restoring tools but I can't deny a spark of excitement at getting these functional again

Look good!
Don't get carried away with "restoration" - it's another fashion, along with crazy sharpening..
They will need sharpening most likely but you can stop at that, though a quick splash of raw linseed oil, all over, wood and metal, is good.
Might be a good idea to get them to a saw doctor instead and learn to sharpen yourself on a rubbish saw first - these look like nice ones.
The blades will polish up very quickly with use and become low friction, but never look like shiny new steel.
One critical thing is the saw set and the finer teeth on the tenon saw: it must bend the teeth from a point above the gullet and not be wrenching them from lower down or you may break teeth.
If you do break a tooth or two don't worry about it just ignore them!
Last edited:
Have you seen kerfing saws / planes? If not, take a look at those and see if you think they would work for you

@Dr Al has a nice example on his website CGTK - Kerfing Saw

Although he won't be needing it now he's bought his big bandsaw :)
+1, I bought a record 044c (the Cumquats one with the weird d*ldo-esque tote which your hand slips off of, because the fact it is angled wrong), and screwed a piece of sawblade underneath, works great.
Levelling is good for max efficiency. A rip sharpening is straight across. If the teeth are a bit uneven (of varying width) you can often reshape them by bearing sideways on the file to one side or the other and sharpen at the same time. Keep focussed, relax into the job ...

This kind of thing can be useful for smaller teeth - and various qualities & prices are available there & elsewhere.
Oops, there was more to that when I typed it stating file the TPI you want on the smooth back. don't know what happened there

Latest posts