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Resaw blade advice

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Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)

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The alternative to a point fence for re-awing is a shortened fence. This is the one I made for my Hammer N4400, and the rationale why ...


With regards a blade, the wider the better. The width depends on the amount if tension the bandsaw frame will permit. The maximum I can go to is a 1” carbide Lenox Woodmaster CT, which is lucky for me as this is a superior blade. But the Hammer is topping out here, and smaller, lighter saws may only go to half this size. Carbide blades tend to be thicker and stiffer, requiring more tension. Also, the smaller wheels, such as below 16”, exert more bend on the blade and this will cause them to crack. I’ve had very good results from bimetal blades in the smaller sizes.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 

bjgodefr

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bjgodefr

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The top is now back at 6,5cm thickness, just as it was before I hand planed 1,5cm off of it 😅.
I have some JUUMA Holdfast clamp which seem to work really well in the dog holes now that bench has this thickness (I also use these in a home made mft style top, but as it is not as thick, they grip a bit less).
 

MARK.B.

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Glad you got that sawted out and that top looks great (y)I don't know if it will help :unsure: and I have no financial interest in this but if you do want Tuff Saw blades, I would be happy to repost on to you at your expense :).
That is unless someone knows a reason why this can't be done :eek:
 

bjgodefr

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Glad you got that sawted out and that top looks great (y)I don't know if it will help :unsure: and I have no financial interest in this but if you do want Tuff Saw blades, I would be happy to repost on to you at your expense :).
That is unless someone knows a reason why this can't be done :eek:
Thanks for this!
But I'm really happy with the blade from bandsaegeshop, which I ordered in Germany.
The advice wasn't as good as you get from Tuff Saw, but the blade works well :)
 
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