Repairing a table top

[FrenchIan]

I have a side table which has been badly scratched in the move here. I think the wood is mahogany, and I'm guessing the finish is french polish.

I'd like to try repairing it myself if possible, but on an old piece like this, I'm not sure where to start. Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[laird]

I'd be thinking of cutting the whole top back with meths. Repairand blend in the gouges with wax sticks and re-FP.

 

[FrenchIan]

I'd be thinking of cutting the whole top back with meths. Repairand blend in the gouges with wax sticks and re-FP.

Ah, I was afraid the answer would involve a french polish finish - I've never done any french polishing before. Plus a selection of wax filler sticks, to get the right colour.

Instead of the wax, could I use Liberon Shellac Filler Sticks? Then, instead of french polish, seal with, say, sanding sealer, then wax-polish?

I've done finishes like that before.

Thanks

 

[laird]

If you remove all of the old finish, then you can finish it with whatever you like, no probs. As long as you remove all the old finish. This is harder with (say) oils than (say) FP.
Wax sticks, simply use childrens crayons if you don't have the shop bought variety, melt and mix to get the colour, add "grain with a darker one. Try it, if it doesn't work simply scrape out and try again (before finishing).
I can't comment on the shellac filler sticks I'm afraid, cos I've never used them.

 

[Nick W]

Once you've stripped the finish (or even before it it's not shellac), and before you get into heavy sanding/planing/scraping), if the damage is caused by compression rather than (or as well as) gouging, it would be worth trying to steam the damage out.

Apply drops of water to the damaged area and leave to soak in for 30 secs or so. Lay a damp folded over piece of cotton sheeting over the damaged area and then apply an iron, set to steam, on top. Wait till the cotton cloth stops steaming. Repeat until no further improvement occurs. It is of course best to try this on an inconspicuous area first to ensure that the finish is not going to react badly to this harsh treatment.

 

[Nick69]

Once you've stripped the finish (or even before it it's not shellac), and before you get into heavy sanding/planing/scraping), if the damage is caused by compression rather than (or as well as) gouging, it would be worth trying to steam the damage out.

Apply drops of water to the damaged area and leave to soak in for 30 secs or so. Lay a damp folded over piece of cotton sheeting over the damaged area and then apply an iron, set to steam, on top. Wait till the cotton cloth stops steaming. Repeat until no further improvement occurs. It is of course best to try this on an inconspicuous area first to ensure that the finish is not going to react badly to this harsh treatment.

That is how I would go about it too

 

[Matt@]

this type of damage often looks worse than it is due to a thick polished finish that has been gouged. Often, just removing the entire finish will remove much of the damage and a thorough sanding will often remove most of whats left. Good tips about soaking the scratches in the wood but be careful if its chipboard etc under a veneer as it'll swell if you get it too wet too far beneath the surface. Wax filler sticks would the last thing I'd use on this to be honest..

If the tops solid timber, just strip the finish and sand until gone.

In terms of stripping the finish, use a nitromores type paint stripper with plenty of ventilation...

 

[FrenchIan]

Thanks, guys, I feel confident enough to go ahead, now.

First step will be to strip the existing finish and see what I've got. Then repair as far as possible (I don't think the water trick will work, these are gouges, but maybe...), sand, seal and finish, as per usual.

I'll post another photo when it's finished.

Cheers

 

[FrenchIan]

Well, I tried to remove the existing finish....

I thought alcohol should do the trick if it's french polish, but it had no effect. Neither did acetone. Or cellulose thinners. All I had to show was a faint blooming of the surface, and a few slight rub marks.

So, I guess it's not FP.

Nitromors next, I guess, unless there's something better/more gentle?

Tx

 

[Matt@]

Nitromores or a nitromores type product (methylene Choride based stripper) is the best and most sympathetic product to use! Dangerous stuff though - ensure you have lots of ventilation - better still do it on the drive or patio in the fresh air whre the fumes won't get you...

expect to use 3 or 4 seperate coats scraped off and 2 coast wire wooled off with course grade wire wool..

don't bother with eco products..

 

[yellowbelly]

Nitromores or a nitromores type product (methylene Choride based stripper) is the best and most sympathetic product to use! Dangerous stuff though - ensure you have lots of ventilation - better still do it on the drive or patio in the fresh air whre the fumes won't get you...

expect to use 3 or 4 seperate coats scraped off and 2 coast wire wooled off with course grade wire wool..

don't bother with eco products..

or you could coat it with Nitromors and lay a bin liner(or other plastic sheet) on top of it and leave for a good hour to penetrate the surface and then remove the lacquer