record/axminsterbandsaws & minimum blade width

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kross

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hi
this might be a dumb question:-

does anyone know if its possible to use 1/8inch & 3/16inch wide blades on a record bs350s bandsaw?

i'm setting up my shed/workshop (just about reached retiring age) & have decided to buy a bandsaw as my one "big machine"

i narrowed the choice down to 2 models : the record bs350s, and the axminster sbw3501b, & as there's a local stockist with the record machine in stock, i decided to go for that.

however,i'd like to make bandsaw boxes & understand that a blade width of less than 1/4 inch is required - the axminster catalogue says the sbw3501b takes blades from 3mm up

all the literature i can find on the record bs350s states blades from 6mm (1/4inch) up.

thanks
chris
 
Hi Chris,

I have no idea really, but send an email to Ian @ Tuffsaws and he'll let you know, he's very much thought of as the man to go to when you need blades for your bandsaw. They are a cut above the rest and don't cost the earth, he'll advise you what's best to get for your needs. He sent me some blades and they were excellent.

[email protected]

Cheers _Dan. :)
 
The smallest width of blade is governed by the width of the side guides.
These have to be thin enough to allow the rear thrust guide to get close enough to the back of the blade to support it.
With most common fit of ball bearing side guides the minimum blade width is determined by the width of the ball race.
No doubt any bandsaw can be modified to accept the thinnest of blades if custom side thrust guides are fitted.
I have made up some custom hardwood thin guides in the past for someone to overcome this limitation.
 
I've got one of the baby record bandsaws, the minimum width listed is 1/4", but i have successfully used (and still do) 1/8" blades to cut reindeer at christmas - i made loads for friends at work last year!

never had a big problem, but the blades did tend to snap quite often.

As already stated, wathc out for the side rollers, as if you get them too tight it'll effect the teeth set.

Hope this helps...
 
morrik27":i2kpl1sr said:
I've got one of the baby record bandsaws, the minimum width listed is 1/4", but i have successfully used (and still do) 1/8" blades to cut reindeer at christmas - i made loads for friends at work last year!

never had a big problem, but the blades did tend to snap quite often.

As already stated, wathc out for the side rollers, as if you get them too tight it'll effect the teeth set.

Hope this helps...


thanks morrik - which model is that?
 
CHJ":1qez69gm said:
The smallest width of blade is governed by the width of the side guides.
These have to be thin enough to allow the rear thrust guide to get close enough to the back of the blade to support it.
With most common fit of ball bearing side guides the minimum blade width is determined by the width of the ball race.
No doubt any bandsaw can be modified to accept the thinnest of blades if custom side thrust guides are fitted.
I have made up some custom hardwood thin guides in the past for someone to overcome this limitation.


thanks chas!
they are definitely bearing guides on the record - i'll try to find out how feasible it is to change them
 
kross":15py5j47 said:
morrik27":15py5j47 said:
I've got one of the baby record bandsaws, the minimum width listed is 1/4", but i have successfully used (and still do) 1/8" blades to cut reindeer at christmas - i made loads for friends at work last year!

never had a big problem, but the blades did tend to snap quite often.

As already stated, wathc out for the side rollers, as if you get them too tight it'll effect the teeth set.

Hope this helps...


thanks morrik - which model is that?

Its the BS250, the benchtop one.

I get the blades mailorder from http://www.trucutbandsaws.co.uk/index.htm

I just ring up and quote the length i want. almost every time the blades have arrived the next day, and the quality seems good.
 
You don't need to change the bearings on the BS350S, they are adjustable independantly of one another.
Once the blade is centralised on the bandwheels the rear guide can be moved forward to support the back of the blade and the side guides adjusted accordingly.

The bearings run sideways on to the blade such that their plane of rotation is from front to back of the saw table.

See the User's Manual (PDF) that can be downloaded via this link:

http://www.recordpower.co.uk/download.php?id=3597
 
myturn":1qngcxmh said:
You don't need to change the bearings on the BS350S, they are adjustable independantly of one another.
Once the blade is centralised on the bandwheels the rear guide can be moved forward to support the back of the blade and the side guides adjusted accordingly.

The bearings run sideways on to the blade such that their plane of rotation is from front to back of the saw table.

See the User's Manual (PDF) that can be downloaded via this link:

http://www.recordpower.co.uk/download.php?id=3597


does that mean you reckon it's adjustable to take 1/8 and 3/16 inch blades then?
the user's manual says 1/4 inch - 3/4 inch, and i'm wondering why
 
kross":2edi6kex said:
does that mean you reckon it's adjustable to take 1/8 and 3/16 inch blades then?
the user's manual says 1/4 inch - 3/4 inch, and i'm wondering why
Physically I see no reason why a 1/8 blade could not be used, as far as the guides are concerned.

There may be other reasons why Record don't specify a 1/8 blade, possibly because they are more liable to break? You could ask them.
 
myturn":3r3vr9tm said:
kross":3r3vr9tm said:
does that mean you reckon it's adjustable to take 1/8 and 3/16 inch blades then?
the user's manual says 1/4 inch - 3/4 inch, and i'm wondering why
Physically I see no reason why a 1/8 blade could not be used, as far as the guides are concerned.

There may be other reasons why Record don't specify a 1/8 blade, possibly because they are more liable to break? You could ask them.


thanks mick!

i was waiting for record to phone back while i typed my last post!

as you say, it seems there is no physical reason why narrower blades cant be fitted. they dont advise it because of
(a) the difficulty of getting the bearings adjusted to give support without catching the teeth and blunting the blade, and

(b) overheating problems - the tech guy reckoned narrower blades will heat up more with two consequences: they'll develope cracks and break; and they'll burn through the rubber tyres

he reckoned using blades less then 1/4inch on any bandsaw is pushing it!

so i've decided to buy the record machine & see how it goes - it has so many advantages over the axminster i was comsidering, as faras i can see

so thanks everyone for all the help - i'll let you know how i get on!

chris
 
myturn":2dye0poo said:
You don't need to change the bearings on the BS350S, they are adjustable independantly of one another.
Agreed if the thrust bearing is situated above and clear of the side bearings, (as they are on my SIP), not all are or have adequate adjustment as supplied.

The main problem I find with using very narrow blades on my machine is the distance, top to bottom, between the thrust supports, very narrow blades have very little resistance to deforming and twisting if they are not cutting freely and any undue pressure is applied.
 
You may also find that the ammount of travel on the thrust bearing is not enough to make contact with the back of the blade, and keep the teeth clear of the side bearings. Currently my setup uses the original guide bearings, and in order to have the blade not rup on the side guides i have to set them slightly off the blade so the set of the teeth is not effected.

I was thinking about trying to change the thrust bearing for something bigger to allow the three bearings to work as one.

This only effects using a 1/8" blade, it be that a 3/16th doesn't need the mod, but i've not got any 3/16", and as long as you don't go at it like a bull at a gate, it works fine.
AFAIK, all the record bandsaws use bearings and rollers, rather than rubber blocks, so heat and burning should not be an issue. It really boils down to the set on the teeth rubbing on the side rollers.
 
morrik27":1i35lgz9 said:
It really boils down to the set on the teeth rubbing on the side rollers.
If that is the only issue you can make wooden side-supports (as Chas suggested earlier) or use any other material that will not alter the set.

If Chris is only planning on sawing thin wood then the blade won't be under much pressure anyway and as long as the wood is advanced slowly it should be ok.
 
myturn":lm0pe9o0 said:
morrik27":lm0pe9o0 said:
If Chris is only planning on sawing thin wood then the blade won't be under much pressure anyway and as long as the wood is advanced slowly it should be ok.

it's gonna be about 4 inch + thick wood for the boxes!

i've bought the saw - staggered up the garden path with it - & its in bits on my shed floor

assembly next week - off to my son's for the weekend - thanks again everyone for the brill input

chris
 
kross":36zvwl95 said:
i've bought the saw - staggered up the garden path with it - & its in bits on my shed floor
chris
You must be an Olympic weight-lifter if you managed to carry it!

Mine came on a pallet and I had to assemble it using a block-and-tackle winch to get it off the ground and onto its stand :oops:
 
You must be an Olympic weight-lifter if you managed to carry it!

Mine came on a pallet and I had to assemble it using a block-and-tackle winch to get it off the ground and onto its stand :oops:

...porter's trolly!! - no idea how i'll get it on to the stand tho!
 
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