record 405

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lurcher

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hi lads do any of you have any experience in using the record 405
i spent a couple of hours sharpening the blades today and put the tool together
would like some tips and advise please i have enough wooden molding planes to make a large tree its the 405 i want to try and master next .
its good that at 51 i still want to learn pity school wasnt as good for me
please let me have your words of wisdom
 
The usual advice starts by directing you to Alf's Cornish Workshop site where she covers what you need to know, leaving little to add.

Rember that the 405 is very very similar to the Stanley 45 so descriptions of the US plane apply well.

One recent resource is Roy Underhill's comparison of combi planes to specialised planes at http://video.unctv.org/video/2365021501/
 
PM me your e-mail address, I have a copy of the instruction book on file.
Bod
 
it helps alot my friend i was just asking for further help as any tips or advise that may not be in the book
i dont have a printer and i am not very good on the pc so i was hoping i may be able to get a copy of the manual so i can take it to the workshop and se how i get on with it .
you lads are so helpful its great for some of us
a manual in the hand is easy to take about and study at any time
thank you
 
Ok some tips in random order:

Sharpen to a single bevel at 30 degrees.
Make sure cutting edge is at right angles to the iron as there is no lateral adjustment.
Use a block of wood to make sure the fence is parallel to the body.
Rub an old candle on the skates and on the fence.
It can be easier to start at the far end of the work and gradually bring the starting point of each stroke back, esp on beads.
Your right hand pushes, your left hand steers.
Make sure all screws are tightened to hold fence, stops etc. If anything slips that shouldn't rub it with violinist's rosin.
 
Just to expand on some of the above and having recently used my 405 for the first time.

- The trick (see Alf's site) of inserting a straw or similar into the spare hole at the front/top of the plane is useful.

- Do press firmly with the left hand (assuming cutter's on r/h side of fence) to keep the plane pressed against the workpiece. I had trouble initially because I was allowing the plane to wander.
 
AndyT":3j6d7o3f said:
Sharpen to a single bevel at 30 degrees.

I think you'll find that the blades for the #405 are ground to 35 degrees. It's best to hone them at this angle so as not to alter the profile of the blades, particularly the beading cutters. If you were to alter the angle of the beading cutters by honing a secondary bevel, it would be difficult to get them back to their original shape.

When honing the beading cutters, I've had success using some wheels made from MDF which I hold in an electric drill and hone the shaped part of the cutter freehand





I shape the wheel by holding a rasp against it while it's spinning. I use some honing compound on the wheel.

This is all done after honing the flat part of the blade as normal.

Hope this helps.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
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