Rebated Half Blind Dovetails

[bobscarle]

I normally cut dovetails by hand, not particularly well and certainly not very quickly. I have been asked to make some bedroom furniture, an ottoman, 2 bedside cabinets and a chest of drawers.

The ottoman will have dovetailed corners which I am doing now by hand. It looks like I will need to make about 12 drawers in total for the other three pieces all of which will be rebated at the front and through at the back. 12 drawers x 4 corners = Lots of dovetails.

I have been looking at the Leigh jig and am considering buying one to speed up the process. Yes, I know, heretic, burn him at the stake, etc. But before I do I would like to find out a little more about cutting them by hand. Does anybody know of, or have, a good tutorial I could look at?

I know how to, and have, cut ordinary half blind dovetails but the addition of a rebate confuses me somewhat. Obviously the tails will be cut as usual but how do you get in to mark up the pins and how do you cut them? I assume that sawing is not possible so it would all be chisel work. Not even sure about getting a gauge in to mark the scribe line, although that would be easy enough with a square.

Thanks

Bob

 

[Jacob]

Make them as through DTs and then apply a false front to the drawers?

 

[bobscarle]

Jacob

Thanks for that.

I had thought about doing that and it is a possibility. However I would like to at least have a go at cutting one "properly". If I did do them all as through dovetails this would speed up the process no end.

Bob

 

[Jacob]

.. I would like to at least have a go at cutting one "properly". .....

False fronts probably are as proper as rebated fronts, even in old furniture.
What about making the rebate deeper so that the ends of the tails are back, up a little step, if you see what I mean? Give you more room to work.

Aren't DTs a bit wasted on a rebated drawer front though? You won't be able to see them too well.

I lifted the following from another thread:

Here's an even easier way. Just nail the pipper together. 100(?) year old welsh table. Solid oak drawer with false front. Looks good for another 100 years. Dovetails are for skinflints who don't want to spend money on nails!

 

[GazPal]

Another joint to consider is the sliding dovetail when joining drawer fronts to sides, as well as for carcass and shelving work.

 

[lanemaux]

You might want to take a look at the Woodwrights shop .He offers his shows in flash videos , and if I recall there was one called the dovetail variations that might help. Sorry , but I don't have the link just at hand. If you Google "Woodwrights shop you should get right to it though.

 

[fletcherj]

You might want to take a look at the Woodwrights shop .He offers his shows in flash videos , and if I recall there was one called the dovetail variations that might help. Sorry , but I don't have the link just at hand. If you Google "Woodwrights shop you should get right to it though.

www pbs org/woodwrightsshop/video/2600/2613.html

 

[bobscarle]

Thanks for all your responses.

I did a search for the Woodwrights shop and found the site. Lots of interesting stuff there. I will certainly be going back for another look.

I think I have made my mind up. I am going to go with Jacob's first thought (no, not the nails) of through dovetails and a false front. It seems to be the best method and one I know I can do. I will post some pictures when work starts in a week or so.

Bob