Radial arm saw - are they worth having?

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Monkey Mark

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As the title really.

I keep seeing them pop up on ebay at reasonable prices. Now, I've never used one before so the sensible side of me says to move along, but the +1 side of me says i should buy one :lol:

What are the advantages of these?
I've seen some using dado blades, do they all accept them or more American again?

Cheers, Mark
 
I think that you need to think about what you make and whether a RAS. They are useful if you require the functions that they do and have the space.

Where they are good is for cross cutting, never for ripping, and can be used to make trenching cuts. If you have limited space, then personally I would avoid.
 
They don't have to take up loads of space though, you can lift the blade up out of the way and turn the whole thing 90 degrees so it's at the back of the bench out of the way. They do need more depth to the worktop to cut at full width and that's compounded by the fence being relatively further forward, but you can counter this by building it into a bench with a drop-in section so the deeper bit can be removed and swapped for a normal depth bit of work bench.

When installed as above it'll take up less room than the SCMS that can't lift and swing itself out of the way. Easier to move the SCMS into a cupboard etc, but most people will just leave them out on the workbench.

I bought one ages ago because to get the same capacity, thickness and width of cut with a SCMS would have cost a small fortune. I'd say that unless you get a really good one, you need to factor in the time to make a decent bench that's accurate and to strip, clean, rebuild and replace bearings etc if you want to get the same accuracy as the SCMS is capable of. They're old kit and just aren't as well designed in terms of being able to quickly and easily setup accurately if you need to change between angles etc regularly. This is especially true if you want to cut trenches as you'll need to be able to adjust the table bed to be exactly parallel with the saw blade path.

Also, you should really fit a negative rake blade to stop the saw trying to accelerate into the cut (and your fingers!), which are tricky to find and you'll want a blade with flat top tooth profiles for trenching cuts or you'll be having to tidy them up on the router table.

Dust extraction is rubbish, so you'll probably want to look at building some sort of hood for that, though my SCMS needs a hood too as the extraction on that isn't very good either.
 
You may have spotted mine on Ebay, it's been a great bit of kit.

Wadkin but single phase which is unusual, I have it setup with long tables and was going to drop a router lift in one end to make better use of the table.

You can still use them with dado heads but be very careful about ripping or just don't do it!

I am making way for a new toy, the Axminster 635 Drum sander

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-in ... r-ax873406

Cheers Peter
 
Personally I found mine a pain to set up to keep square in relation to the table top and you can't rip. With limited space, a table-saw serves me far better and I was glad to have sold mine.
 
Thanks guys, i may get one at some point.

At the moment i need to get a mitre saw, as cheaply as possible. I did buy a cheap used one but it was a lemon so i stripped some parts from it and binned the remains.
 
They're great for cross cutting, mitres, and compound mitres at spans that an SCMS just can't come close to. When set up properly they're extremely accurate too.

They can rip quite happily, but they don't allow any cavalier attitudes towards it (ripped for years on a RAS before I got a table saw). There's no denying though that ripping is vastly easier on a table saw, and more forgiving if you make an error.

They're quick. Whilst table saws can do (e.g.) compound mitres on a crosscut, you've usually got a rotating fence to fit and adjust, and a blade to tilt, often with only a rough angle gauge. On a RAS the setup procedure takes under 20 seconds, and is extremely accurate.

Size is really dictated by what sort of cuts you're making. Typically I crosscut on the RAS, so it's against the side wall of the garage to give a long clearance perpendicular to the blade. Typically on the table saw I rip, so it's set up to allow good length clearance in line with the blade.

I've got both a RAS and a table saw and I wouldn't be without either of them now. If I had to have just one though, I'd have my RAS.
 
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