quick question....poll included

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should a table saw parallel fence be.....parallel?

  • yes

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • no

    Votes: 1 100.0%

  • Total voters
    1
Thanks Moz. I have been educated.

However, I would NEVER use a hand-held circular saw without some form of guide for the sole plate. Professionals on site do it all the time and get away with it, but I know if the blade is twisted too much to either side of the line of cut, the blade will grab, and it can kick-back.

Correct me if I am wrong, but surely that must be due to the action of the blade and nothing to do with the sole-plate.

(Incidentally, know it can happen because it did so to a friend of mine years ago, and he lost his thumb. )

What I am saying is, whether the blade moves across the cut, as with a hand-held saw, or the work moves across the blade, as with a table-saw, the result is the same. Kick-back.

Work that pinches the blade gets thrown upwards first, so if that is what you meant by kick-back, then I see your reasoning.

Regards
John
 
i understand the concept moz, but i'm still confused as to best practice for cutting panels now.

i'm gonna start a new thread on that and go back to school.

jeff
 
Jeff,

sorry to hear of all your problems with your Felder combi.
For what it is worth.when they delivered my Felder saw/spindle the engineer who done the commission, set mine up with a slight toe out on the fence.
He said that was the way he was told to do it when he done his training at the Felder HQ in Tirol.

Where as you have had a lot of problems,I cant speak highly enough about the performance of my machine. In fact since then I have ordered and received a Hammer A3-41 P/T and a Felder AF22 dust extractor.

No consolaton to you with your problems I know,but I am sure you will get there in the end,good luck anyway.


Mark.
 
I voted NO!
I cant the fence away from the rear of the blade by a few thou and rely on the riving knife to maintain accuracy.
Though appreciating the symbolism of Dave's sketch it is exaggerated and ignores the riving knife's action in keeping the timber on line.
My reason for so doing is very simple, I find it impossible to ensure that on each and every occasion that I move the fence that it will lock down dead parallel with the blade, and I have yet to meet a TS that does!

Roy.
 
cheers mark,

i'm sure we'll get there in the end.

roy, i've never met a riving knife that doesn't have some movement by the stuff as it passes.

i'm gonna ask the engineer to parallel everything when he comes to realign my machine table. the fence clamp is pretty substantial.

jeff
 
I'll stick my neck out here jeff and make a bet with you.
After it has been squared, measure the gap between the fence and the blade at both the front and rear of the blade, I use a digital caliper.
Move the fence away then move it back and clamp then re measure, I'll bet you that it will not give you the same accuracy as before.
The only difference I have found between machines is their degree of inaccuracy!
I agree with you about the riving knife BTW but then I always use a short subfence on the main fence.

Roy.
 
which is exactly why i went for the felder roy......it should be the least inaccurate. if i can get to within .25 of a mm on long production run cuts for cabinets, with the minimum of arsing around....i'll be well happy. thats about as accurate as i can measure with my eye and a tape measure anyway

more set up should get it perfect where absolutely necessary.
 
Agreed Jeff, but I can't afford a felder! :lol:
I get around the problem by means that were taught to me 50 yrs ago. Most of my cutting using a fence is to the right of the blade, so I always set the width of cut by moving the fence to the left!
This guarantees that any error is wider to the rear of the blade than to the front, I have never suffered a kick back when using this method.

Roy.
 
so you set your fence to the left of the blade roy? sorry its been a long day, just cant picture it.

jeff
 
No Jeff. It's on the right, and I set the measurement by moving it to the left, towards the blade. As the vernier setting is at the front, leftward movement always results in the back of the fence trailing, thus there is always a few thou extra clearance between the rear of the blade and the fence than at the front.

Roy.
 
might have to check if that was a contributory facto tomorrow roy. thanks for the 50 year old tip. the old ones are the best!

jeff
 

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