Question for the sparkys

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Mine had a 1mm spur cliped to the wooden garage roof fed off the cooker fuse and a socket connected to the cooker point. And lots of other nightmares.

Pete
 
I believe anything in a kitchen must be fitted by a part P registered electrician, I was told by a sparky as I wanted to know what I could do legally and he said anything in kitchens/bathrooms/external had to be completed by a part P registered person, therefore this includes cookers..... shame really because it's dead easy to do
 
I'm sure many of us have horror stories to tell. I am not a qualified elecrician but I did study electrical engineering at university so the IEEE regulations made sense, and in the past I have rewired several houses for friends or relatives. I don't any more since the introduction of part P in building regulations.

By far the worst I ever saw was an installation with one cartridge fuse ( blown and wrapped in aluminium foil), and an earth conductor which went outside to a garden tap, but had been broken en-route so was totally ineffective.

The crowning glory was a bedroom light switch arrangement consisting of (bit long winded to explain) a bayonet plug in place of the light bulb (remember those?) which fed a cable leading to a light socket from a standard lamp, with push on/ off switch so the occupier could operate the light from just above the bed. The trouble was the plastic insulation around the switched fitting had broken and had been 'repaired' by wrapping wire around the exposed terminals, this wire then lead to another bayonet light fitting holding the bulb. So basically the person in bed would reach up to operate the light switch, with hands about an inch away from an exposed live terminal
(1) In the dark
(2) with no fuse
(3) with no earth.

And they survived.!!! To this day I don't know how.

Back to the OP, I believe Damo is right. Bathroom, kitchen and exterior wiring should be done by a qualified electrician
Also any work involving the consumer unit. Other work can be done by a competent person but must be checked and signed off by a qualified electrician - at least that was the situation last time I checked but things may be even more stringent now.
K
 
Woodmonkey":1hfm0ocm said:
Is 1.5mm flex Ok for connecting a cooker?

Yesterday I removed my 21 year Bosch oven, just oven, not hob, it is rated at 2000W - which is about the same as my router. Today, remembering your question I examined the cable. It's 1.5mm2 heat resistant. It was absolutely fine.

found this, https://www.niceic.com/Niceic.com/media ... tsheet.pdf
 
Also, worth noting from that linked PDF: "Installing a new cooker is not notifiable unless a new cooker circuit is needed." just in case this search turns up in future for someone asking the same question.
 
Woodmonkey":2qpfk2a6 said:
It's 2.35 KW. It's got its own dedicated 16amp (I think) supply with an isolating switch

Tbh I was surprised it didn't come with a bit of cable.

Since you are connecting from the existing isolating switch I can't find anything in Part P that says you can't do it.
 
For what it's worth, I'm sure the more strands a flex or cable has the more current it will carry, so a flex made up with many fine wires will carry many more Amps than a solid cable of the same cross section. hence the cable to your wall plate may well be 6mm but the flex from there to the appliance may be much smaller.
(I'm not an electrician)
 
Chrispy":2chl9nc2 said:
For what it's worth, I'm sure the more strands a flex or cable has the more current it will carry, so a flex made up with many fine wires will carry many more Amps than a solid cable of the same cross section. hence the cable to your wall plate may well be 6mm but the flex from there to the appliance may be much smaller.
(I'm not an electrician)

I don't think that that is correct, Chrispy. At least at 50Hz where skin effect is negligible.
 
The cross sectional area determines the current carrying capacity, the number of strands determines the flexibility, solid for in side walls, stranded for mains leads etc.

Pete
 
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