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If you have not got neighbors or a highway on the boundary then I think the poster is correct about the 30m3 footprint for regs and 4 m to ridge. I have certainly built garages and sheds for people on that basis. The fire regs aren't easy to interpret and height is a factor, you can certainly have a six foot wooden fence next to an escape route
 
, the relationship of reinforcing cover to concrete strength is a new one on this Ove Arup trained ex Chartered Structural Engineer,

I missed out this point

from EC2
""
SECTION 4 DURABILITY AND COVER TO REINFORCEMENT
4.1 General

4) Corrosion protection of steel reinforcement depends on density, quality and thickness of
concrete cover (see 4.4) and cracking (see 7.3). The cover density and quality is achieved by
controlling the maximum water/cement ratio and minimum cement content (see EN 206-1) and
may be related to a minimum strength class of concrete.""

and you can look at the previous standard BS8110 Table 3.4 which gives nominal covers for various conditions of exposure against the grade of concrete.


You state that you are unaware of "the relationship of reinforcing cover to concrete strength", and state that it "is a new one on this Ove Arup trained ex Chartered Structural Engineer". I learnt this in technical college back in the 1970s.

I do not know if we were working to a new code that had introduced the relationship between concrete strength and required cover and you have not undertaken any concrete design since the you were initially trained. You could have been designing other things.

Alternatively you could have just forgotten, thats a sad fact of ageing. I certainly can not do some of the maths that I could do in University.

I think it is unlikely that you are deliberately giving bad advice. But you could have said something like with "20mm cover it will be 20 years before there is a problem in MikeJhn's experience" or the like "40mm is the standard but not needed for a shed".

I doubt you will explain yourself but I will take everything you say with a pinch of salt.
 
Don't know where you read that but it wasn't the regs. Gets interesting above 15m2.
https://www.planningportal.co.uk/ap...ulations/exemptions-from-building-regulationshttp://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2010/2214/schedule/2/part/6/made
CLASS 6
Small detached buildings

1. A detached single storey building, having a floor area which does not exceed 30m2, which contains no sleeping accommodation and is a building—

(a)no point of which is less than one metre from the boundary of its curtilage; or

(b)which is constructed substantially of non-combustible material.

2. A detached building designed and intended to shelter people from the effects of nuclear, chemical or conventional weapons, and not used for any other purpose, if—

(a)its floor area does not exceed 30m2; and

(b)the excavation for the building is no closer to any exposed part of another building or structure than a distance equal to the depth of the excavation plus one metre.


3. A detached building, having a floor area which does not exceed 15m2, which contains no sleeping accommodation.


That is the actual legislation - so, point 3 is a generic default if below 15m2
point 1 allows you to go up to 30m2 as long as it is not used for sleeping and also above 1m from boundary (or built substantially from non-combustible material)
point 2 is probably not relevant
All of this is class 6 exemptions from building control and is the legislation
not hugely complicated...

build up to 30m2 if you are 1m from the boundary or substantially non-combustible
above that, building regs come in...
 
https://www.planningportal.co.uk/ap...ulations/exemptions-from-building-regulationshttp://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2010/2214/schedule/2/part/6/made
CLASS 6
Small detached buildings

1. A detached single storey building, having a floor area which does not exceed 30m2, which contains no sleeping accommodation and is a building—

(a)no point of which is less than one metre from the boundary of its curtilage; or

(b)which is constructed substantially of non-combustible material.

2. A detached building designed and intended to shelter people from the effects of nuclear, chemical or conventional weapons, and not used for any other purpose, if—

(a)its floor area does not exceed 30m2; and

(b)the excavation for the building is no closer to any exposed part of another building or structure than a distance equal to the depth of the excavation plus one metre.


3. A detached building, having a floor area which does not exceed 15m2, which contains no sleeping accommodation.


That is the actual legislation - so, point 3 is a generic default if below 15m2
point 1 allows you to go up to 30m2 as long as it is not used for sleeping and also above 1m from boundary (or built substantially from non-combustible material)
point 2 is probably not relevant
All of this is class 6 exemptions from building control and is the legislation
not hugely complicated...

build up to 30m2 if you are 1m from the boundary or substantially non-combustible
above that, building regs come in...
Yup. As I say, just have a read through the regs. But also speak to your local BCO because their interpretation of non combustible is what matters (which you are doing so that's all cool)

Also think about that 4.8m span and how to achieve it without loosing all your internal headroom.

M
 
If you have not got neighbors or a highway on the boundary then I think the poster is correct about the 30m3 footprint for regs and 4 m to ridge. I have certainly built garages and sheds for people on that basis. The fire regs aren't easy to interpret and height is a factor, you can certainly have a six foot wooden fence next to an escape route
Where did you read that?
 
Where did you read that?
I am no planning expert but if you where next too the beach or a large river you would have no neighbours on the boundary. (apart from the crown on the foreshore and who ever owns the river but!). Other wise you always have a neigbour is just a matter of what they are currently using the land for.



Not sure how the builder and owner of a garage would fare if a farmer had his corn field burnt if the garage did not comply. Would their insurance pay out, I don't know.
 
I am no planning expert but if you where next too the beach or a large river you would have no neighbours on the boundary. (apart from the crown on the foreshore and who ever owns the river but!). Other wise you always have a neigbour is just a matter of what they are currently using the land for.



Not sure how the builder and owner of a garage would fare if a farmer had his corn field burnt if the garage did not comply. Would their insurance pay out, I don't know.
Thankfully not arable land 😉 and what I meant by no neighbours was that I have no domestic property neighbours
 
I totally agree that the regs make no sense in certain circumstances but with all due respect that's irrelevant 🙂 the only thing that matters is what's written down in the regs and how your local BCO interprets it thus making your building legal or not.

Martin
 
My new intended location will be 8-10 metres from a field and can be over 1 metre from a hedge that runs along a country lane. Again I will contact my local planning office but I don't see an issue. I'll post a plan
 
My new intended location will be 8-10 metres from a field and can be over 1 metre from a hedge that runs along a country lane. Again I will contact my local planning office but I don't see an issue. I'll post a plan
Needs to be 2m away from boundary if you want to go above 2.5m height, that's according to the permitted development guidelines.

1m from boundary is how building regs are defined, and that governs how you build not what you build.

HTH

Martin
 
I missed out this point

from EC2
""
SECTION 4 DURABILITY AND COVER TO REINFORCEMENT
4.1 General

4) Corrosion protection of steel reinforcement depends on density, quality and thickness of
concrete cover (see 4.4) and cracking (see 7.3). The cover density and quality is achieved by
controlling the maximum water/cement ratio and minimum cement content (see EN 206-1) and
may be related to a minimum strength class of concrete.""

and you can look at the previous standard BS8110 Table 3.4 which gives nominal covers for various conditions of exposure against the grade of concrete.


You state that you are unaware of "the relationship of reinforcing cover to concrete strength", and state that it "is a new one on this Ove Arup trained ex Chartered Structural Engineer". I learnt this in technical college back in the 1970s.

I do not know if we were working to a new code that had introduced the relationship between concrete strength and required cover and you have not undertaken any concrete design since the you were initially trained. You could have been designing other things.

Alternatively you could have just forgotten, thats a sad fact of ageing. I certainly can not do some of the maths that I could do in University.

I think it is unlikely that you are deliberately giving bad advice. But you could have said something like with "20mm cover it will be 20 years before there is a problem in MikeJhn's experience" or the like "40mm is the standard but not needed for a shed".

I doubt you will explain yourself but I will take everything you say with a pinch of salt.
You deliberately miss interpreted my previous post on purpose I assume as it meets your agenda, you have latched onto cover and I SAID 20MM AGGREGATE, sorry to shout, but you seem you have difficulty reading what is written.

And you insults are not appreciated whether meant tongue in cheek or not.
 
Can you all just agree to disagree so that my thread doesn't turn into slanging match, I'd prefer it was kept to just advice to get me nearer to my build
 
Well having spoken to my local planning folk it transpires the ditch the other side of my hedge is my boundary, said hedge is hugely deep so well over 2m from my planned pad
 
Still no further along with my plans, I had thought I may change to a pier or ground screw type base but I'm really not sold on the longevity or whether a chipboard base will be hard wearing enough should I pull my motorbike in to work on. The step up in would pose a problem there too so a lower profile raft with a course of concrete blocks or 3 bricks seems the best option although expensive and very tricky access.
 
Nothing wrong with having piers, my large shed sits on nine of them that are two foot deep, 16 inches square but with a 2ft top face. Infill between with pea shingle and gravel for good drainage. I used two shhets of 22 shuttering ply for the floor which were bitumed on the bottom face and stuck together with roofing bitumen. Then the shed built on top of this. I thought modern motorbikes were reliable, not like my old Triton that was often in bits.
 
I've highlighted the main problem with piers is height lost and lack of longevity. One of my bikes is modern, 2012 Triumph Daytona 675, the other however is a 1975 XS650B that I'm restoring.
 

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