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UKTony

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I have two small projects to complete for Swmbo this week, the first is a set of peanut bowls 6 in total, small things you put nuts and crisps in etc. a couple of questions

1. I get the concept of copy turning between centres but how do i get 6 bowls to be identical depth and size?

2. I have not turned anything for food yet i have enough Iroko ands its the right colour is that safe to eat off and what finish should i apply, can i use olive oil for example or do i have to order something from Chestnut


2nd project is a new bird box i have a made a few over the years of various types ornamental, dove etc but not tried anything on the lathe does anyone have any design suggestions or pics, i'm thinking cylinder with a hat on - from a finishing perspective what could be used that is weatherproof ?


PS all this typing and spell check on chucks up one error...fantastico

Many thanks 8) 8)
 

DaveL

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Hi Tony,

I am not sure about iroko for food use, I don't think there should a problem as long as your not chewing the wood. :shock: Finishing oil is food safe, I am not sure what olive oil will do long term on the bowls probably quite high maintenance.

I am not a turner but how about some sort of gauge stick for the depth of the bowl, offered up as you get close to size?

Your speeling is better then mine. :whistle:
 

Duiker

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Hi Tony,

I had a similar project (peanut bowls) recently although I didnt have quite so many (two). I did buy some special food safe oil when I was in the UK though and to be honest the finish was rubbish and I went back to stick wax.

I dont think its a problem though if you are only putting in peanuts and crisps though is it? Not as if you will eat your cornflakes/curry/soup from these bowls so no "wet" stuff if you know what I mean? The chances of contamination of "dry" food must be non-existant and I'm willing to take the chance to be honest. The wax just stops the peanuts staining the wood.

I've seen some plans for turned bird houses somewhere.............I'll see if I can find them again and get back to you if I find them.

Cheers,

Mick
 
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Anonymous

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Hi Tony
Chestnut do a 'Food Safe' finishing product... olive oil can go rancid... you could use Walnut oil (from most supermarkets) but the problem with kitchen type oils is their drying time but they're easy to maintain; simply wipe clean and re-apply.

Simple bowl depth gauge... take a piece of timber 25mm x 10mm x as long as the widest bowl you're ever likely to make and drill a hole in the centre of the 20mm face for a length of dowel (interference fit) as deep as you'll ever want: simply knock it though to your required depth. Mine's a sophisticated version using a cheapy steel rule, instead of the dowel, held by a spare threaded knob that I had.

How are you holding the bowls on the lathe?
 

UKTony

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Gents

Ok i'm happy with making a dpeth gauge but how about the outside shape? i assume some sort of card template?

I have ordered some foodsafe to keep me safe

Graham, once the outside is turned i will use my Nova to hold the bowls
 

cd

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Hi Tony,
For making similar bowls I tend to use a cardboard template one for the inside and one for the outer.
I'd be interested in seeing what you come up with for the birdhouse, I'm working on one at the moment and depending on how it turns (no pun intended :oops: ) out, I might be entering a forthcoming competition. :wink:
I'm doing it in mdf to fulfill the man made material requirements and am not sure what finnish to use, but was considering car spay paint :?:

cd
 
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Anonymous

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Hi Tony
Just a suggestion ... why not use the chuck from the start :?:

I use a cheapo saw tooth bit (2 and 1/8th inch which allows the 50mm jaws to fit) to bore a recess in the blank, mount it on the lathe, turn the outside to a finish (having made a recess), reverse the bowl on to the chuck and turn the inside...

You could also use Melamine lacquer (water resistant) as a finish...

cd....
spay paint
....in a neutered colour perhaps... :p
 
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Anonymous

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cd
:) I saw it just as an amusing typo... my sense of humour gets a little more twisted around the witching hour.... :wink:

There's a guy up/down Doncaster way who's marketing a one shot lacquer... he's promised me a trial pack... I'll post a review if and when...
 
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Anonymous

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I use a cardboard template for the outside, then for the inside I drill a hole with a forstner bit to the depth I want to end up with.

As soon as the drilled hole "disappears", I know I've reached the required depth...if that makes sense?
 
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Anonymous

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forstner bit to the depth
:?: Have u tried using a 1/4 inch gouge as a drill... with tape to indicate depth stop... gets a bit warm if you're heavy handed :!:
 
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Anonymous

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oldsoke":37ps7fsu said:
forstner bit to the depth
:?: Have u tried using a 1/4 inch gouge as a drill... with tape to indicate depth stop... gets a bit warm if you're heavy handed :!:
How does that work then?
 
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Anonymous

Guest
Hi Roohster

Align the tool rest so that the gouge is centered on the blank (lathe not running :!: )

Start the lathe at a low speed and gradually, slowly introduce the end of the gouge (flute uppermost) to the blank... remove frequently to get rid of the 'swarf'.

the gouge is in effect a single flute drill... ideally (when looking down on to the top of the flute) the right side wing should be ground longer than the left side.

Hope this helps Roo
 
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