Problem setting up planer/thicknesser - where can I go?

[twodoctors]

Hi all,

I have a SIP planer/thicknesser (hobby type). I can't remember why I thought the blades might be blunt (maybe because it was secondhand) and decided to change the blades. Managed that using info from various part of the net. However I'm still getting lipping on the planer table which I didn't have before...

Is there a shop of some sort I can go to for this? Don't mind paying someone a small fee to get it sorted. I'm in Nottingham.

Thanks.

Adrian

 

[Ttrees]

Hello Adrian
A piccy might explain your problem ?

What is lipping ?
Are you getting a lip in the work from some nicks in the planer blades?
You can adjust them a bit, so there's a fresh edge to take that off in the next rotation of the cutter head.

Interesting by the sounds of it
Tom

 

[sunnybob]

I think youre talking about SNIPE, where the ends of the wood are planed thinner than the rest?
If so theres a huge amount on youtube about it. Its very difficult to cure completely, but the effects can be minimalised.

If there is a raised (or indented) line down the length of the wood, thats a blade issue.

 

[twodoctors]

Yes, sniping is what I mean.

Before I changed the blades there was no sniping on the planer, only the thicknesser (which is a known thing). All the advice I see online is to set the blade just slightly above the second table (where the piece lands) so that it move the wood a bit when the blade rotates. I don't see the rationale as that extra bit is sniping my piece on the planer...

...I think I'm doing it wrong. Hence the question.

Thanks.

Adrian

 

[topchippyles]

Sounds like your blades are set at different cutting depths so i would check that first.

 

[sunnybob]

You obviously have the outfeed table too low.
Put it dead level.
Surely you push the wood across the planer?

The thicknesser should auto feed but not the planer.
If dead level doesnt work, then youre talking about a cigarette paper lower, no more.

 

[MattRoberts]

If you're getting snipe when surface planing (as opposed to thicknessing) then it's likely to be technique.

It doesn't matter how far the blades protrude or whether they're wonky, it should be the same cut all along the length if your technique is right.

Is the snipe occurring on both ends? Or just on the end that finishes the cut?