Prepping a soot-stained wall prior to repainting

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I suggest that before either of you start making judgemental replies that you stop making assumptions as to what/will not be disclosed to potential purchasers.

So stop being prissy and Little Miss Goody-Two Shoes.

As I can see this thread starting to turn sour, perhaps the Mods could lock it.
 
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Either way if your post was in 2 parts eg why is this happening , how can it be put right followed by how can i repaint the soot stained wall it would of made sense but in your reply to my advise -you,ve stated the issue wont be repaired ??? . If you intend to disclose this issue to the next owner/ buyer fhen why bother to paint ( hide) issue . Why not just be upfront and open and say this . End of the day you are asking the members for help and you should no by now that the members are very through in their replies . You are not the 1st to post a thread and be told thats not right, what you are doing is unsafe etc . As such those who know when something is unsafe will say so in no uncertain terms and i include myself in this . So enjoy your 1750,s death trap and i hope the surveyors ask for the installation details and any subsequent inspection deems it to be unsafe.
 
You cannot make good every single fault in an old property , before you sell, Especially one dating from the 1750's That one shouldn't decorate before selling misses the point to some extent. First impressions count when selling along with bland magnolia or all white colour schemes. 🤔 When you move you reserve the majority your funds for the inevitable work that you will have to carry out in your next home. Unless of course this is a new build.

When purchasing a property , one employs a surveyor to point out the obvious faults and one would hope that with an old property they would offer some sort of advice about the things that aren't apparent, but one might encounter ,owing to the age and type of construction..

I would say that faults with flues, fit into this category, and are common in old properties. This is especially true where there are multiple networks passing through several floors and linking with multiple chimneys. One should generally expect to be advised , that if one wishes to use old fire places then, for safety's sake the flues should be lined.
 
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Many thanks for all the suggestions (ignoring the Holier-than-thou finger-wagging comments - authors now safely on Ignore).

Did a small trial of the recommendation to use a cotton bud and oven cleaner and that was a stonking success...Kudos to Superduner.

In the end, several sites recommended something I'd never heard of before - a 'soot sponge' to be used first. It's like a soft rubber shredded wheat and you use it dry. Quite incredible to see the soot come off the wall leaving behind a relatively clean surface and without any water!

This is post-rub ...the photograph doesn't really show just how black it was.

20240120_154415.jpg

The same site then went on to use a degreaser and suggested tri-sodium phosphate. Again minimal water needed...just a damp sponge..followed by rinsing - again with a damp sponge. And this is the result which I'm rather pleased with.

20240120_154451.jpg
 
Many thanks for all the suggestions (ignoring the Holier-than-thou finger-wagging comments - authors now safely on Ignore).

Did a small trial of the recommendation to use a cotton bud and oven cleaner and that was a stonking success...Kudos to Superduner.

In the end, several sites recommended something I'd never heard of before - a 'soot sponge' to be used first. It's like a soft rubber shredded wheat and you use it dry. Quite incredible to see the soot come off the wall leaving behind a relatively clean surface and without any water!

This is post-rub ...the photograph doesn't really show just how black it was.

View attachment 174139

The same site then went on to use a degreaser and suggested tri-sodium phosphate. Again minimal water needed...just a damp sponge..followed by rinsing - again with a damp sponge. And this is the result which I'm rather pleased with.

View attachment 174140
Pleased to be of help!
 
I have just done mine, plasterboard covered it all up and I wanted a log burner in, what worked in mine was hot water and a really strong engine degreaser, I painted it with a stone effect paint and after a couple of months it's fine.
 
IMO Caveat emptor applies when buying anything -- re houses as long as you are correct when completing the vendors pre purchase information form thats that.
re anything else you can ask any questions you may wish if you have a dishonest reply or the description is incorrect thats a different matter.
 
The smoke on the wall does not necessarily indicate there is a problem with the brickwork/mortar. The clean section just above the mantel, and the way the smoke pattern tapers off as it gets higher indicates the smoke is coming from the fireplace opening.

There could be many reasons for this to happen. The first is the fact it is a Georgian house the fireplace would have been designed to have a grate slightly higher than the one in situ now. The other factor is the property would have been considerably draftier then than it probably is now which will affect the draw and combined with doors opening and closing may interfere with the fire and create puffs of smoke to escape. There are ashes and residue in front of the crate which may also create a degree of smoke which may over a long time create this.
 
Many thanks for the insight, David. I expect you've come across Count Rumford ?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rumford_fireplace
Yes, he was the one that created the smoke shelf which acts to create a low pressure and thus draws the smoke and combustion gases up the chimney. If you look up your chimney you may see if this has been added at a later date. We have two inglenook fireplaces (1800 approx.) and you can see how these have the smoke shelf been built in, actually low WRT to the mantel but this I believe is a modification to the Rumford design.
 
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