Precision Miter Gauge System

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Hey Staffie,

Not sure about the kregg, I have never used one.

However, for just about the same price you can get the incra

I have it and it is just fantastic. It has a venier scale which makes it accurate to 1/10 degree. After 5 minutes setting it up, I cut an octagonal frame. Every joint was perfect.

I would definately go for this
 
For years I moaned about the inacuracy of what came with my TS I would often look at what was on offer, but I always decided against parting with my dosh, they were all too expensive. Then in a moment of madness I bought one of these from Rutlands.

JessEm Mite R Excel
7100_b3.jpg


It's built like a battle ship, it's not just accurate it's spot on
:D

Superb piece of gear. :D
 
Chaps,

I have been dithering for a while about replacing my t/s (sheppach tku) with a SIP 10" cast iron affair. I'm pondering about cross cutting. Is it better to go for an INCRA type fence, a sliding table or an additional SCMS. What do you think ?

Regards
John McM
 
I think it depends on the size of material.

If it fits my crosscut mitre saw then that will always be my preference..at least for 90 degree cuts. I also made an extension table for it. The mitre saw fits tightly in one corner at one end..the material is supported (up to about 2.2m) on the left and I can clamp a simple end stop anywhere down the length so that I can get consistent, fast 90 degree cuts and at the right length.
 
As Roger says the SCMS if the timber fits and you have the support

WorkshopView3.jpg


I also have the Incra V27 mitre gauge where you have to make your own fence but costs £49 which is cheaper than the £129 with a fence attached.
 
Thanks everone for all the responses so far, doing lots of seaching and checking prices. Found a new Incra distributor, waiting for him to get back to me, will let you know the results.

John, I have the SIP 10" with a cast iron top and a sliding table (Recently aquired), it's a great piece of kit.

The sliding table is great but I have found the acuracy a problem. I have followed the advise from members on the forum on setting it up and its great (very accurate) until you have to change the angles, then its measure and check and measure and check. To set it up correctly again.

So I have decided to get a more accurate mitre gauge to get around this for small pieces, larger panels will still be cut with the sliding table.

As far as the Rip fence is concerned after setting it up correctly, Once again with the help of forum members, it is very accurate. Made a couple Oh Jigs to fit the fence for cutting tenons and insert panels and it's really great. Works easely and accurately.

Hope this helps

Staffie
 
Just to follow up on the incra supplier, Company is called "Wood Workers Workshop" Web address; http://www.woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/index.htm

Check the "coming-soon" section, Quoted me a price of £15.00 less than any other supplier, with a p.m. delivery tomorrow. Will keep you advised on progress.

Once again, everyone, thanks for the help and advise.
 
My appologies for another post, left out the most inportant info.

"WWW" quoted me £15-00 less on the Incra Mitre Gauge 1000 Special Edition.

SWMOBO is sitting next to me and I can already see the question coming,
"HOW MUCH DID THIS NEW TOY COST"?

Mumble, mumble, dinner on friday, OK.

Thanks
Everyone
 
Chaps,
thanks for that. I think I'll go for he SIP t/s and a SCMS both fixed in position. I can always add an Incra type mitre gauge later if needed. I don't have quite enough room in my 14'x12' workshop for a sliding table.
Ta
John McM
 
staffie":ugv7yg6g said:
My appologies for another post, left out the most inportant info.

"WWW" quoted me £15-00 less on the Incra Mitre Gauge 1000 Special Edition.

SWMOBO is sitting next to me and I can already see the question coming,
"HOW MUCH DID THIS NEW TOY COST"?

Mumble, mumble, dinner on friday, OK.

Thanks
Everyone

Info for Mrs staffie, A good mitre gauge is a must have for making coffee tables ect, and they are pretty cheap, cheap enough to have money left over for a new dress + shoes, may even stretch to a handbag as well :lol:

Info for Staffee,,, as I read on here the other day "its easier to apologize than to get permission" :lol:
 
Good morning all, pleasant surprise this morning the Incra arrived at 10h00, Neatly packaged, now all I need is a bit of time to play.

WWW seems to be a good company to deal with.

Cheers
Staffie
 
Barry Burgess":9th1zezl said:
As Roger says the SCMS if the timber fits and you have the support

WorkshopView3.jpg


I also have the Incra V27 mitre gauge where you have to make your own fence but costs £49 which is cheaper than the £129 with a fence attached.

Barry, did you follow a plan for that SCMS stand? It look very nice, just what I need.
 
WiZer I used Norm's outdoor unit as a example. On the left it extends to support timber upto 2 metres and the same on the right - it folds back behind the existing front right and then extends. If I did it again I would not add the option on the right going to 2 metres. The dust hood is the mark 1 version and I have to re design it.
If you want more info just PM.
Barry
 
Got to set up the incra this afternoon, took three hours and could not get it square, then I remembered that someone had posted a method for setting up and squaring a sliding table. Used this method and got it very close.

It looks like the three squares I have are not square, checked and double checked but each time there was something wrong.

Do squares go out of square?

Any other tips / methods for setting up the Incra?

Another question, has anybody come across mitre gauge to use with a sliding table? My SIP sliding table mitre gauge is not that great, I have to check it each time I cut.

Made a quick eight sided picture frame before coming in. Cant post a picture yet but working on it.

Once again thanks everyone for all the help.

Staffie[/list][/code][/quote]
 
When I set up my incra, i used a plastic draughtmans set square as I don't trust my squares either. (I have a load of these as my grandad was an architect and I inherited all his equipment.)

This is the other method i used.

put a staight edge on a board and cut the other edge parallel.
use the mitre guage to cross cut it at 90 degrees
turn one piece upside down and hold both pieces edge down on the cast iron surface.
Move the cut ends together.
If they meet with no gap, then it is set up
If there is a gap you can work out which way the guage is out and adjust it slightly.

Its a bit of a trial and error technique but it works in the end.
 
staffie":jmfit6yn said:
Do squares go out of square?

Ooooh yes! More often than you'd think.

Butt your square up against a flat/true edge and mark along the back of the blade. Then turn the square over so the back of the blade is still against the marked line but the stock is on the other side. If there is any discrepancy between the marked line and the back of the blade now then your square isn't square!

A judicious tap in the right place might be enough to get it back to square again if it's out (it's usually rough handling & dropping them that puts them out ... if, of course, they're actually square when you buy them!)

ATB
 
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