Powerline Bandsaw Spares Locator

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I edited my post above to include some numbers, it may be that if you remove the screw you can add in a "cog" and screw it back together - or maybe low speed is the only option. I've spent so little time using it, I can't remember now what it looks like inside. Perhaps it just broke off on yours?

Adam
 
Just a further footnote. Adam has mentioned Fenner as the manufacturer of the drive belt in question. Some time ago I was trying to source a link belt for my tablesaw. For those not familiar a link belt has several advantages over the usual rubber type drive belt: the belt can be fitted by disconnecting the links, the belt lenght can be shortened or lenghtened by adding or removing links, link belts have no "memory" unlike the standard rubber belt that can "set" into an oval shape when under tension when the machine is not in use and this can lead to a transmission vibration and lastly link belts offer less noise and vibration.
Anyway, back to main topic. Fenner products can be sourced from
www.wyco.co.uk who have plenty of branches around the UK.

Rgds

Noel
 
I think that the BK1 is a single (low) speed machine. Where does the belt fit for the lower speed on your BK2 ? Does it fit around the blade pully ? If so then it must run either under or alongside the blade !
 
Learner Les":2ivcb3pb said:
I think that the BK1 is a single (low) speed machine. Where does the belt fit for the lower speed on your BK2 ? Does it fit around the blade pully ? If so then it must run either under or alongside the blade !

Here's some photos which should make everything clear (OK, perhaps not, but it should give you a good start!

Click on the images to bring them to a larger size

OK the basic setup...



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Removing the screw on the wheel showed the gear was an integral moulded part.


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The cog/pulley is held on by a small screw. Please ignore the state of my screwdriver - it's my "Paint-stirrer" - I couldn't find anything I needed as A) It was late when I took these pics, and B) My workshop is full of nuerous deliveries at the moment.


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Just a general picture...


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and another....


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It's not very clear but there is a metal "pin" going through to stop the pulley slipping.


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Might be slightly easier to see in this picture...


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More pictures...


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So if you can't get the parts - and are making it yourself, heres a few bits to help.....

Diameter of the cog = approx 35mm


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With a vernier...


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Motor pulley, outside flange (28mm?)


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And internally, measured on vernier, actual cog diamter


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A guess at the frequency of the teeth


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I reckon thats 10 notches and spacings = ~5mm each? (0.2"?). I'll let you decide/check!


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The teeth are not square, each side is "sloped" they are about 2.27mm at the base


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And at the top...


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Hope that helps, it makes a bit more sense if you click the link above the belt manufacturer. All these measurements are a bit "ropey" in so much as it's quite hard to accurately measure rubber belts!

I'll look up the part numbers in RS of the similar parts I have bought previously.

I'll also send you the link to the directories which I have all the pictures in, in case you want to view the ones I missed out this post....

Hope that helps...

Adam
 
Right the parts I've used before are available from http://rswww.com

(note no www. in the URL)

Then in my catalogue they sell "Classical Timing" pulleys - "XL 037" series, which are about when I'd expect - they also sell a range of belths on "5mm pitch" to suit them. Pulleys are about £3 to £10 each depending on size/material. Unfortunately, RS don't take private orders, so although you can buy with a credit card, you need someone with a company name who has an account. If you get really stuck, you can get me to sort out purchase, provided you send me the money"

They are on RS Catalogue 5, page574.

Part numbers like... (a random couple of belts and pulleys in the series)

359-8597
359-8718
350-8327
350-8125

Adam
 
asleitch":3bnymf11 said:
Unfortunately, RS don't take private orders, so although you can buy with a credit card, you need someone with a company name who has an account.
Is this a recent thing, Adam? 'Cos I've done a private order from them in the past.

Cheers, Alf
 
Dunno, I thought private orders weren't allowed - perhaps that is trade counters? - rules of planning permission means it can't serve retail customers? I knew Farnell were OK for private orders, but always thought RS needed an account number?

Adam
 
Could be it's okay just via mail order then. I do have an account number, but it was a simple matter of registering just like 99% of all the other sites. :roll: Can't recall, but maybe I made up a company name? "Alf Enterprises" or summat! :lol:

Cheers, Alf
 
"To collect from a Trade Counter you must be a legitimate trading company.

Please bring proof of company status when you collect your order.
"

Maybe thats what I confused with....

Adam
 
First of all many, many thanks Adam for the trouble you have gone to. Once again the helpfulness of this forum and its members is outstanding.
I now have doubts that the BK1 is the same as your BK2. The cog on the BK1 motor appears to be permanently fixed to the motor shaft and does not appear to have been shortened in any way. This means that a belt running on it aligns with the blade pulley and not with a cog on the outside of the pulley (the lower picture in my earlier posting shows this) so if I make or buy a cog and fix it to the pulley (as in Adams BK2) then the belt will not line up. My pulley is held by a circlip, the screw slot shown is on the end of the pulley axle to facilitate its removal.
My options are:
1. Make or buy a cog for the pulley and a longer gog for the motor.
2. Find a BK1 and copy or steal the drive cogs.
3. Give up and save my pennies for a newer bandsaw. :?
Thanks again for your help.
 
Go to ebay item number.....200571138649.....
I`ve just bought one.
Hope you get what you want.
Regards to all,
wineprovider
 
Little Sheffield no longer hold any spares for the Burgess bandsaws.

Just rang them.................8/7/2013.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Martyn
 

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