Possible production of round bar tool rests for Axminster la

[=Adam=]

Hi guys!

I have recently bought an Axminster lathe (avswl 1000) and would like to get some round bar tool rests made up similar to the sorby ones.

I have priced up the steel online and it seems do able however I only want one and the steel comes in 1m lengths.

So what I was wondering is of there would be any interest from other Axminster owners who would like one?

Now before anyone starts, I am not out to start a business, I would purely have too much metal and would like to get rid of it! I am not looking to make a profit either, just to cover my costs (the bar and time for someone to weld it, I can't weld).

Going off of the dimensions on the stile and bates site then they make them at 110mm long for the stem and then 200mm for the rest. This seems a fairly decent size to start with.

Any comments on this would be great!

Cheers guys!

 

[ColeyS1]

I looked at doing the same but wasnt sure if the metal would have to hardened or not :-?

 

[Spindle]

Hi

Have you considered using silver steel to make a rest? - it comes in 330mm / 13" lengths, is ground accurately to size, easily obtainable in a very wide range of diameters, and can be hardened / tempered if you wish, (personally I don't think this is necessary). It is a little harder to work than mild steel but can be cut with a hacksaw, filed, drilled, tapped and ground.

Regards Mick

 

[chipmunk]

I agree with Mick - it isn't necessary to be hardened. After all many toolrests are cast iron.

Adam,
If you can't weld have you thought about just cutting the 3/4" rod into various lengths, tapping them centrally with M12 x 1.25mm (ArcEuroTrade sell sets of taps for this thread - 10.8mm tapping drill) and using the Sorby threaded toolposts?

You can drill (under power but mind the flying ends of the bar!) and tap (by hand) on your lathe holding the bar across your chuck body between the jaws to ensure the drilling is square and central. It'd be a good idea to centre-drill first.

The toolposts are the cheap parts from Sorby but will overcome your compatibility issues.
HTH
Jon

 

[paul-c]

hi adam
i have done the same thing for myself and a couple of mates.
i just used 16mm round bright mild steel.they do not need hardening
then drilled and tapped to suit the sorby posts.
p.s. from memory they are 12 x 1.75mm not the standard 12 x 1.25mm threads.
cheers paul-c

 

[chipmunk]

Hi Paul,
I'm afraid your memory has let you down on this one - M12 x 1.75 is the standard M12 Coarse metric thread and the Sorby toolposts are not that but a much finer thread (actually the same as M8 Coarse).

I'm sure that they are M12 x 1.25.
Jon

 

[Spindle]

Hi

M12 x 1.25 is a metric fine thread.

Regards Mick

 

[paul-c]

hi jon
cheers for that - i knew it wasn't the one commonly used/supplied in most tap sets such as ones from axminster etc.
i had to buy a plug tap as i only had a 1st.
cheers
paul-c

 

[CraigyCraigo]

You could also make the tool post if you are willing to tap the rest (and the bar is the correct size for the holder).

If you make the post the required length and drill down the centre of the post..... maybe even on the lathe using a chuck in the tail stock if you are struggling for alignment on a drill press (make sure you go through the drill sizes doing it this way). then tap it to M10 or M12 standard pitch. Drill and Tap the Rest, then get a length of threaded bar (all-thread if you prefer) and lock tight it into either the rest or the post. this way you would utilise all the bar stock at various different lengths of rest. it would be a good idea to grind a flat onto the bottom of the rest where the two parts intersect to ensure the post and rest takes the load, not the all thread. (note this shall give you the horizontal alignment and hence shall have to be pretty good. failing that a small machine shop would mill a couple of area's off for you for a small cost.)

Hope this helps.

Craig

 

[=Adam=]

Thanks for the replies guys!

From doing a few searches online, it seems that Peter child seems to be the best place to get the tool post from!

It looks like you can buy a 1m length of steel bar for less than you can buy a tool rest for! It seems like a distinct possibility!

Which tap set would I need to purchase?

Thanks for the info guys!

 

[CraigyCraigo]

1st, 2nd and plug of the M12 x 1.25 if that is the thread spec. I haven't got my zeus book infront of me for the drill size unfortunatly, a quick google should produce the result.

C

 

[chipmunk]

+1 for Craig's suggestion but it requires a few more machine steps.

If the toolpost is smaller in cross-section than the bar then you could counter-bore the bar on the lathe to form a slight socket for the toolpost and this will achieve the square mating surface Craig's talking about without grinding/milling.

I'd suggest like Craig always drilling round stock on the woodlathe rather than trying to do it on a pillar drill, especially if you're doing it on-axis for the toolposts. Even for the cross-bars I think it's easier than trying to use V-blocks on a pillar drill because it's easy to be slightly off-centre although things will still be square.

Cover up your lathe bed to catch the chips and use drilling/tapping fluid or compound - taking it steady and withdrawing the drill bit regularly. Pilot-drill your holes first (at least as big as the chisel point of the larger bit) and if the holes are bigger than about 10-12mm consider taking it through the sizes as Craig suggests.

For tapping on the lathe, drill the tapping hole first (nominal diameter minus the thread pitch), and without moving the workpiece in the chuck, replace the drill bit with a tap (a plug tap will be ok) held in the tailstock chuck. This will ensure that everything is kept aligned and minimise the chance of broken taps. Leave the tailstock to run free on the bed. Use tapping fluid in the hole and on the tap and turn the lathe forwards BY HAND with your left hand as you push the tailstock and tap into the work with your right hand - forward approx 1/2 turn and then back a 1/4 to break the chips free. Keep going until you feel the tap bottom out (too stiff). Now just turn the lathe in reverse by hand all the way to eject the tap from the hole.

You can also file on the lathe under slow power, if you're careful, and this can help to make sure your toolpost is flat on the top where it will mate with the bar - with a good sharp ******* file you can shift some metal pretty quickly and precisely.

HTH
Jon

 

[chipmunk]

Well if you're buying the Sorby toolposts the Metric Fine M12 x 1.25 taps can be bought here...

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Taps/Serial-Taps---Metric-BSW-BSF

In general tapping drills are the nominal diameter (12mm) minus the thread pitch (1.25mm) i.e. 10.75mm which is as near as dammit to the Zeus book 10.8mm.

ArcEuro will also sell you a 10.8 Cobalt HSS bit for a few quid too http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Twist-Drills/Drill-Bits---Cobalt.

HTH
Jon

 

[CraigyCraigo]

+1 for Craig's suggestion but it requires a few more machine steps.

If the toolpost is smaller in cross-section than the bar then you could counter-bore the bar on the lathe to form a slight socket for the toolpost and this will achieve the square mating surface Craig's talking about without grinding/milling.

I'd suggest like Craig always drilling round stock on the woodlathe rather than trying to do it on a pillar drill, especially if you're doing it on-axis for the toolposts. Even for the cross-bars I think it's easier than trying to use V-blocks on a pillar drill because it's easy to be slightly off-centre although things will still be square.

Cover up your lathe bed to catch the chips and use drilling/tapping fluid or compound - taking it steady and withdrawing the drill bit regularly. Pilot-drill your holes first (at least as big as the chisel point of the larger bit) and if the holes are bigger than about 10-12mm consider taking it through the sizes as Craig suggests.

For tapping on the lathe, drill the tapping hole first (nominal diameter minus the thread pitch), and without moving the workpiece in the chuck, replace the drill bit with a tap (a plug tap will be ok) held in the tailstock chuck. This will ensure that everything is kept aligned and minimise the chance of broken taps. Leave the tailstock to run free on the bed. Use tapping fluid in the hole and on the tap and turn the lathe forwards BY HAND with your left hand as you push the tailstock and tap into the work with your right hand - forward approx 1/2 turn and then back a 1/4 to break the chips free. Keep going until you feel the tap bottom out (too stiff). Now just turn the lathe in reverse by hand all the way to eject the tap from the hole.

You can also file on the lathe under slow power, if you're careful, and this can help to make sure your toolpost is flat on the top where it will mate with the bar - with a good sharp ******* file you can shift some metal pretty quickly and precisely.

HTH
Jon

Well if you're buying the Sorby toolposts the Metric Fine M12 x 1.25 taps can be bought here...

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Taps/Serial-Taps---Metric-BSW-BSF

In general tapping drills are the nominal diameter (12mm) minus the thread pitch (1.25mm) i.e. 10.75mm which is as near as dammit to the Zeus book 10.8mm.

ArcEuro will also sell you a 10.8 Cobalt HSS bit for a few quid too http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Twist-Drills/Drill-Bits---Cobalt.

HTH
Jon

Jon's addition to my first post is spot on, some really good advise in there..... :-D Thumbs UP!!!

 

[woodturnerEric]

if you have a chat to Stiles and Bates chipmonk,they will make custom sized tool rests to your needs at an attractive price from what I remember when I got a quote from them,regards,

Eric.

 

[=Adam=]

Just to add another dimension to the discussion.....

Does the rest (horizontal piece) have to be the same thickness/diameter as the post (vertical) or can it be larger/smaller?

The reason being that I would like to get some made to 1" dia as well as the 25mm and the 25mm stock works out to be much cheaper. I cant see it being an issue however I thought I would check!

 

[CraigyCraigo]

as long as you get a good joint it shouldn't be a problem...... i would go bigger not smaller though if you can help it.

the joints the critical bit between the two components as it's always under bending due to the way the work ie the tool being forced down.

 

[graduate_owner]

Adam, you might want to consider using all the steel yourself because you could make several different sized rests - normal and short, plus curved for interiors of bowls. If you do fancy making a curved rest, make sure you do the bending first (so you have enough leverage), then cut to size.

I made up a rest myself from some oddments. I'm no expert in metalwork but I do a bit of welding and have an old, fairly well worn small metal lathe. I turned down about 15mm of the stem to about 12mm, drilled the rest bar part way to take the stem, then welded the two (easy job).

If you could get to know someone nearby with a metal lathe, these sort of jobs would be so easy, and save a packet too. Things like thread cutting take skill and time, but just turning to size is no problem at all, bearing in mind the accuracy needed in such work is not that great.

One other thing I'm going to try is making wood jaw adaptors for an Axminster chuck. Disc of aluminium, accurately index marked. Drill suitable matching holes, then cut into quarters. If it works it will save me £30 so worth trying.

K