PMV11 blade Vs Stanley on a 4 1/2

[Bm101]

When I first started actually getting interested in the working of wood after rather than just repairing windows and fitting skirtingboards to do up houses one of the first mistakes I made was to think that buying a pmv11 veritas blade would be a panacea. (I still blame a bad back and sloe gin). Months down the line and a little up the learning curve I have the pmv11 fitted to a record 4 1/2 smother in pretty good order. But I also have an old stanley 4 1/2 fitted with an old blade bought from The Redoubtable Mr Haydon. So the question is this. When Im using, the stanley it cuts well, both planes run well to be fair but (in my limited experience) the stanley cuts. It has a slightly curved blade btw. But the veritas thick blade seems to act like a scraper plane. It actually seems to be a good combination. But I did wonder if there was an explanation. While I cut with the Stanley I need to push the Record.
Not sharp enough? Just for the sake of info, the blade barely protrudes from the bed and is stable,well set and the mouth is very wide compared to a bevel down.
It actually seems to work well for difficult grain so I'm not averse to just keeping the two as they are I just wondered what people might advise.

Many thanks as always
Chris

 

[Wuffles]

Have you tried using less words?

 

[Bm101]

lol. Don't get me started on plastering.

 

[Wizard9999]

Have you tried using less words?

The use of "less" here is incorrect, have you considered using "fewer"? :lol:

Terry.

 

[Wuffles]

Touché.

Not bad for 5 pints of Stella though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Racers]

The cambered blade might be taking thicker shavings than the straight blade so needing more effort, have you swapped them over?

Pete

 

[ED65]

Not sharp enough?

Possibly, but I'm thinking you're not comparing apples to apples. The two irons need to be set up the same to be doing a direct comparison of them.

A slight camber on one iron is a significant difference to another with a straight edge, even assuming all other factors are equal. If the shavings from the two planes measure as the same thickness the ones from the straight edge will be uniform in thickness across their width, the ones from the cambered edge will feather out to nothing at each edge meaning that plane is actually cutting away quite a bit less wood which alone could account for the lesser resistance.

Just for the sake of info, the blade barely protrudes from the bed and is stable,well set and the mouth is very wide compared to a bevel down.

Compared to a bevel-up, no? You're using bevel-down planes.

 

[Bm101]

Yeh sorry, bevel down. I had a bit of time today and stripped it down. I've not used it much before the last few days. I cleaned out a lot gunk between the frog and the body. Put it back together and and it seems to work better. Maybe the blade wasn't seated flat? Anyway, thanks for the advice. I'll have a play round with it over the weekend. Cheers again.

 

[ED65]

Maybe the blade wasn't seated flat?

The gunk was under the frog yes? If so then there may be a mating issue between that and the machined surfaces of the body casting, which isn't at all unheard of with modern planes. This should have a negative impact on performance but I believe it would primarily show up as vibration or chatter, so if you're not getting much or any of that it may be a case of something being a big deal in theory but not always in practice.