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John Brown

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Our shower mixer sprang a leak at the outlet.
After ripping out several tiles and some damp plasterboard, I found that I was unable to dismantle the outlet joint(s) without cutting through the pipe that goes up to the shower head, as there is no give in the pipework.
Assuming I can fix the leaking joints, is there some fitting I can use that to bridge my cut pipe and allow me to reconnect without ripping out more wall? I am envisaging something like a special compression fitting that has an extra long socket at one side. If not, can I get a piece of flexible pipe that will mate with 15mm copper at both ends?

John
 
Not sure I trust my soldering in such a tight space, but thanks for the tip.
I'm thinking there might be just enough latitude in a standard compression fitting. Maybe I'll give it a go.

John
 
John Brown":1818zqu6 said:
Not sure I trust my soldering in such a tight space, but thanks for the tip.
I'm thinking there might be just enough latitude in a standard compression fitting. Maybe I'll give it a go.

John
John

Just make sure the pipe and the fitting is cleaned with wire wool, when the solder is applied and still hot, wipe the joint with a piece of leather, this smooths out any snots and looks much more professional, google soldering, all the advice you need is freely available

Baldhead
 
These exist and might help

68637.jpg


a compression repair coupler

16172.jpg


a flexible stainless steel hose

37158.jpg


a telescopic radiator valve tail. Images from Toolstation for convenience. Bits from anywhere handy.

I'm sure I've seen a corrugated copper flexible tap connector but these seem to have been superseded by the superior item in the second photo.

(Disclaimer - I'm not a plumber.)
 
I'm no plumber, so I find push-fit are the easiest to use. Much easier than compression fittings, especially in a tight space.

I pay a little more for the John Guest stuff, rather than the really cheep stuff.
 
I have filed out the stop on end feed connectors in the past.

Pete
 
Well, I manged to wangle a standard straight coupling compression fiting in. I divided the slack between the comp fitting into the shower outlet and the two ends of the straight coupling and it worked fine. The problem, however, turned out to be the washer in the first part of the shower outlet(which then has a something to 15mm adapter screwed onto it).
So I had to get the cutter out again! I found a couple of replacement rubber washers and put it all back together, this time with a flexible hose. No leaks as far as I can see, but a load of Fernox LS X got itself into the flter mesh in the shower head - my fault - I should've waited longer before testing. Of course, I didn't know that at the time - I thought I'd buggered up the mixer as there was such a pathetic trickle coming out!
Hey ho, now I have to repair the damage to the tiles and plasterboard.

Thanks to all for help and advice.

John
 
That flexible stainless thing in Andy T's post would have been ideal, if it can change its length. The flexible hose I used I had to loop it around like a giant lower case alpha character.

John
 
If the wall is plasterboard that should give you plenty of scope to expose enough pipe to effect a sound repair using compression or push fit. Sometimes it's better to look at the bigger picture in a case like this. How much of the plaster is water damaged, anyway? IMO it's the worst kind of substrate to have anywhere near a shower.
 
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