Also bear in mind that a new Part 1 valve to replace the existing will not have or accept the silencer tube the the original is showing as there will be no thread in the outlet to accept it.
Repairing leaking ballcock - advice please.
- Thread starter Stan
- Start date
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I’m possibly wrong on this but did the water police not outlaw those tube’s because they could siphon the water from the cisterns in the event the water company shut the main off in the road and those blue dyes were put in the cistern to clean the loo would contaminate the main when the water supply was restored, about the same time they brought out outside garden taps with built in non
return valves etc .
Lons
Established Member
Exactly that.
In my experience the majority I've fixed have had degradation to the plastic vale end and any fix to the washer is temporary, sometime can be extended with very fine emery to smooth it off but in any event if you're going to the trouble of fixing something, often hard to get at in a loft you may as well fix it to last.
It might be of such an age that all the parts are brass, there was a time before polymers like plastic !
Yorkieguy
Established Member
Rather than faff around replacing bits of the float valve such as the washer and nozzle, it would be much more straightforward and less time consuming to simply replace the float valve in its entirety. At the water inlet, the valve is secured to the cistern with a locknut, and the water inlet is secured by a 'union' which is a captive nut on the 'tap connector'.
To replace the float valve, first loosen the locknut, then (with the water turned off of course), unscrew the union and remove the old float valve. To replace it you'll need a 'Type 1' float valve. Best to get a brass one rather than plastic, which will only set you back for £7.99 ( only £1.00 more than a plastic one). It comes with new locknuts - one for inside the cistern, one for the outside :
Flomasta Brass Part 1 Float Valve 1/2" - Screwfix
Plus a new float ball like this, (£2.47):
Flomasta Round Ball Float 110mm - Screwfix
You will also need a new 1/2" tap washer - so cheap they come in packet of five at £1.57:
Arctic Products Prestex Tap Connector Washers 1/2" 5 Pack - Screwfix
When you've fitted the new float valve, turned on the water and checked for leaks, you'll probably need to adjust the float arm to get the water level to the desired height in the cistern. You do that by gently bending the malleable float arm up or down a little.
Just to clarify any confusion about metric and imperial sizes:
Up to 1971, copper plumbing pipes were 1/2" and 3/4". Post 1971, that changed to 15mm and 22mm. However thread sizes to this day have remained imperial - 1/2" BSP (British Standard Pipe Thread) and 3/4" BSP. In the case of the float valve pipework, the end of the 'tap connector' which is soldered to the water inlet pipe may be either 15mm, or if pre 1971, 1/2". That's completely irrelevant as the threaded part will by 1/2" BSP either way so the thread will fit the replacement valve.
(Much better to use an adjustable spanner to remove and refit the float valve rather than so called 'water pump plies', but if you must... The inlet union and the locknut should loosen without difficulty and minimal risk of damage to the cistern).
Good luck with it whatever you decide to do.
To replace the float valve, first loosen the locknut, then (with the water turned off of course), unscrew the union and remove the old float valve. To replace it you'll need a 'Type 1' float valve. Best to get a brass one rather than plastic, which will only set you back for £7.99 ( only £1.00 more than a plastic one). It comes with new locknuts - one for inside the cistern, one for the outside :
Flomasta Brass Part 1 Float Valve 1/2" - Screwfix
Plus a new float ball like this, (£2.47):
Flomasta Round Ball Float 110mm - Screwfix
You will also need a new 1/2" tap washer - so cheap they come in packet of five at £1.57:
Arctic Products Prestex Tap Connector Washers 1/2" 5 Pack - Screwfix
When you've fitted the new float valve, turned on the water and checked for leaks, you'll probably need to adjust the float arm to get the water level to the desired height in the cistern. You do that by gently bending the malleable float arm up or down a little.
Just to clarify any confusion about metric and imperial sizes:
Up to 1971, copper plumbing pipes were 1/2" and 3/4". Post 1971, that changed to 15mm and 22mm. However thread sizes to this day have remained imperial - 1/2" BSP (British Standard Pipe Thread) and 3/4" BSP. In the case of the float valve pipework, the end of the 'tap connector' which is soldered to the water inlet pipe may be either 15mm, or if pre 1971, 1/2". That's completely irrelevant as the threaded part will by 1/2" BSP either way so the thread will fit the replacement valve.
(Much better to use an adjustable spanner to remove and refit the float valve rather than so called 'water pump plies', but if you must... The inlet union and the locknut should loosen without difficulty and minimal risk of damage to the cistern).
Good luck with it whatever you decide to do.
Attachments
Thanks all for your help.
I removed the ballcock from the cistern without too much trouble. But the end cap would not come loose even when I applied copious amounts of release agent, heat ( not at same time as release agent of course !! ) and bad language. Perhaps I should have applied release agent followed by heat quite quickly? At least it would have added a little excitement to my life.
I found a replacement brass ballcock complete with new ball for the princely sum of £11.22. Apparently they are still made. What concerned me at first was the screw fitting I undid was 1 1/8 inch, a size I have not seen before.
I removed the ballcock from the cistern without too much trouble. But the end cap would not come loose even when I applied copious amounts of release agent, heat ( not at same time as release agent of course !! ) and bad language. Perhaps I should have applied release agent followed by heat quite quickly? At least it would have added a little excitement to my life.
I found a replacement brass ballcock complete with new ball for the princely sum of £11.22. Apparently they are still made. What concerned me at first was the screw fitting I undid was 1 1/8 inch, a size I have not seen before.
I take it you managed to complete the job without any major problems.
Wildman
Established Member
the orifice is plastic and does not wear like the old brass ones, and easy enough to check anyway.
Really? I have changed more worn plastic ones than I have ever changed brass ones.
The job is all done, thanks. I fitted a complete new ballcock. Total cost to the charity was £11.22 for parts, instead of the £300 that the charity group leader had said they had been advised would be the going rate for a professional.
re Bingy man's comment, he is right. My plumbing knowledge is nowhere near that of a professional, but I learn a bit more each time I complete a job and it saves a lot of money. Times are harder now. Even the Bank of England says we have to get used to being poorer!
Bank of England economist says people need to accept they are poorer
re Bingy man's comment, he is right. My plumbing knowledge is nowhere near that of a professional, but I learn a bit more each time I complete a job and it saves a lot of money. Times are harder now. Even the Bank of England says we have to get used to being poorer!
Bank of England economist says people need to accept they are poorer
Good on you and yes we all learn as we go. Saving money is the way forward but only if it makes sense in the long run . Sometimes you have to bite the bullet and spend more but then the job is done correctly and doesn’t require multiple re - fixes that inevitably cost more .
Good on you and yes we all learn as we go. Saving money is the way forward but only if it makes sense in the long run . Sometimes you have to bite the bullet and spend more but then the job is done correctly and doesn’t require multiple re - fixes that inevitably cost more .
Indeed. Part of the skill of DIY is to look at a job and recognise that it is above your level of competence. They have asked me to look at another much larger job and I have regretfully had to say no. Not only is it beyond my current ability, it is beyond what I could reasonably learn in the near future. I have suggested that if they can find a pro to do the job for a charity rate, I would be willing to assist as unskilled labour. Not only could this help keep overall costs down, but I would pick up some useful knowledge.
It’s a pity your so far away from me as I would have been happy help you out . I’m sure you will be able to find someone suitable who is happy to help and not just in it for the money .take care and good luck finding some help .
Lons
Established Member
Same here, in 25 years of business filled by 8 years retirement so far and I've had a series of houses, some pretty old since 1970.
Lons
Established Member
I've done quite a bit of work over the years foc Stan even when I had to earn a living from my business and the vast majority were always very grateful and appreciative however there were a few who really tried taking the proverbial and demanded rather than asked for help. That was usually where a committee was involved the worst being a church run by women.
Tradesmen are pretty busy at the minute but I'm sure they'll find one to help, maybe ask on facebook or twitter?
Tradesmen are pretty busy at the minute but I'm sure they'll find one to help, maybe ask on facebook or twitter?
