Planer set up

[ajbell]

Hi all

I just took delivery of an axminster AW106PT after reading good reviews
on the site.

It is my first planer so I am not sure what set up is required to optimise performance.

I have set the fence square with an engineers square and although I seem to get a square edge after I have planed the face it looks like my edge is convex along the length - not ideal for edge jointing.

Is this likely to be due to my technique i.e incorrect pressure being applied at start and end of cut, or is it set-up?

andy

 

[wizer]

Is it convex on the face side or face edge?

Have you tried drawing a grid in pencil across the timber to indicate where the timber is being removed?

 

[ajbell]

Hi Wizer

It is convex on the edge (I need to check the fave).
If is flat across the width but convex along the edge, i.e. it seems to have taken a deeper cut at the start and end of the cut - can you get snipe when planing?

Andy

 

[TrimTheKing]

can you get snipe when planing?

Absolutely. Have you checked that the tables are flat to each other? If you lay a straight edge across the tables, with the middle of it over the cutter block, you can check if the tables are level.

If not then there are some adjustment screws and bolts that you can tinker with to level things up.

When planing you should also apply pressure to the front of the timber until approximately 6 inches is on the outfeed table, then transfer your pressure to solely the outfeed table, this helps avoid the snipe.

Also don't try taking too deep a cut as this doesn't help.

Cheers

Mark

 

[Mr T]

Hi Andy

Might seem like a silly question but was the piece convex to start with. If so it is unlikely you will get it flat. Try flipping it over to plane the concave side.

Chris

 

[ajbell]

Hi mark

I have not checked if the tables are flat - I will do that tomorrow.
I have not been sure where to apply the pressure - I will try your method
tomorrow as well.

Thanks!

Andy

 

[TrimTheKing]

Hi mark

I have not checked if the tables are flat - I will do that tomorrow.
I have not been sure where to apply the pressure - I will try your method
tomorrow as well.

Thanks!

Andy

No probs. I have the same machine so any other questions just fire away.

Cheers

Mark

 

[Digit]

This isn't brilliant but it may help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5vny6CfdQJ0

Roy.

 

[hpl]

Hi Andy,

Have you sent the outfeed table at the correct height in relation to the blade? That is what I look at 1st when I have similar problems. If the out feed table is set correctly it should be relatively simple to get a straight edge with either the concave or convex edge down.

Johnny B

 

[ajbell]

Hi All

Thanks for all the help.

I will check the tables tomorrow and hopefully sort issue out.

Andy

 

[ajbell]

thanks for the you tube link - it has confirmed
that I am not correctly applying pressure to the out fedd table.

Andy

 

[MikeG.]

Roy,

can you believe yet another American demonstrating on a woodworking machine with the guarding removed??!!

Mike

 

[Digit]

No longer surprises me Mike. What does surprise me is that they all seem to have the correct numbers of finger still!
When you consider that you can get away with a dangerous/stupid practice thousands of times and only lose once it can't be worth the risk.
Like many on this forum I have some grand children, every machine in my shop is switched off at the socket after use. The thought that they might suffer for the two seconds that the extra switching operation takes is not acceptable either.

Roy.

 

[OPJ]

If you're getting an edge that's convex along it's length then it could be that the outfeed table is set too high in relation to the cutting circle of the knives. So, as the timber is fed through the cutting circle, it hits and rides up and over the edge of the outfeed table.

If you're still having trouble after changing your feeding methods and applying pressure correctly (another common problem for beginners...), before checking anything else, I suggest you use the supplied jig to check each of the three knives is set correctly in the cutter block.

The majority of people who buy this particular machine find it's set up perfectly 'out of the box', as it were. I've only seen one other person on here (besides myself) who's found their tables are out of alignment or something.

Anyway, it sounds as if your problem may be more to do with snipe... Some don't consider it a problem - at least you know it's cutting 'true' - and just allow a couple of inches waste at either.

I love this machine and I'm sure you will too. :wink:

 

[neilyweely]

digit

I have kids, not grandkids, and I have fitted a key-switch to the power in the workshop. It means I can rest assured they cannot mess about with 'fun looking tools' in my absence. My kids know how to turn on a plug socket!!!

I got a batch of these keyed switches thrown in with a job lot of planes and chisels etc.... If you want one, Digit, PM me and I will send you one. (for your the help in the past!!! - and for your granchildrens fingers!!)
You only need to break the circuit ; even I managed to wire it up!!

Cheers all

Neil

 

[Digit]

That's very good of you, many thanks. A PM will follow.

Roy.

 

[ajbell]

All

This is in response to the advice given to me last night. I have checked the following on my planer.

1. blade height - all 3 are OK to the setting gauge.

2. Outfeed table to cutter blades - the outfeed table seems slightly
lower than the cutting circle of the blades. I put a straight edge across the outfeed table and rotated the blades slowly by hand. The cutter grazes the bottom of the staight edge just enough to move the straight edge slightly. Is this too low?

3. I checked how parallel the two tables are to each other. I put a straight edge across the cutter from the outfeed table to the infeed table with the infeed table set slightly lower than the outfeed. I held the edge level on the outfeed and was able to slip a piece of paper between the straight edge and the infeed table close to the cutters. As I moved approx 8 inches along the infeed table the gap closed. I guess this shows the tables are not 100% parallel but they are probably not 100% flat anyaway at this price band. Can this table be "tilted" to adjust this.

4. Technique - I tired the technique suggested with transfer of pressure to the outfeed table and hey presto it worked! I got a flat joint with no gaps when tested with a straight edge - but when I jointed a longer length I got a convex egde again. Maybe more practice with tranfer of pressure is required!!

5. Does it really matter? Most people seem to hand plane to remove machining marks etc.

Thanks for all your help

 

[OPJ]

If the outfeed table is slightly lower than the top of the cutting circle then that is correct. Imagine the cutting action of the rotating block, producing a series of tiny scallops, where as a hand plane will remove long, thin fine shavings... The outfeed table is required to support the base of these scallops. Also, if it's set flush with the knives then, as they gradually where down and lose their edge, the outfeed table will become slightly higher.

When you test it, the block should move a steel rule or block of timber by about 3mm.

You should be able to adjust either table to suit. First, do check again that the outfeed table is set parallel to the knives (using the 3mm trick as above). When you got this right, you can then set the infeed table level with the outfeed.

On one side of the machine, there are a couple of bolts (levelling screws) which you can adjust to raise/lower the table. Depending on your situation, you may have wind the outfeed table down to lower it on the hinged side. If the large knob won't turn then you should loosen the nuts inside it - be sure to re-tighten them when you're done!

How long is a "longer" length of timber? If it's considerably longer than the total 1m length of the beds then I think that's your problem... You may be able to overcome it with a roller stand added infront of and behind the machine.

Hope this helps.

 

[OPJ]

Machine marks... I don't worry too much about them. As you say, these have to be removed before you get to the finishing stage anyway. If you feed the timber over the machine at a slow and steady pace then you shouldn't have to worry about them at all, with a three-knife cutter block! :wink: Same with the thicknesser; when the stuff comes out the other end, any marks are barely noticeable at all!

 

[hpl]

For the cutter height to outfeed table height, the table should be slightly low, I was taught it should move the straight edge about 6mm, but I usually set about 4mm, with a little pressure on the straight edge. Any less than this and you probably will get a convex face. I usually find that one blade will be slightly higher than the others and you'll need to check all 3 of them for the highest one.
I don't know about table adjustment on your machine, but the thickness of a piece of paper is only 1-2 tenths of a mm. My planer is an old wadkin and my beds are worn by that much and I can still get a straight edge.
As for getting a convex edge on longer pieces, how long a piece of timber and how far from being straight? Sometimes it is adjustment of the height of the outfeed table and sometimes it is my lazy technique, and I started machining timber over 20years ago and still have to plane it more than once sometimes when gluing faces together. I would expect to be able to get it straight with the planer if I was gluing two faces together, I find it much harder by hand. If it is not for gluing together then I wouldn't worry too much, leave the timber for a day or two and it will probably have moved enough that it it won't be straight any more anyway.