planer blade sharpening

[Loz_grain]

It's one thing I have necer done, but after having put a run of Jarra though my thicknesser, the blades are a sorry sight.

Can anyone impart some advice on what to do?

Thanks

 

[Scrit]

If you intend to make a habit of it (planing cast iron wood, that is) invest in a set of carbide tipped blades......... I've tried various methods of sharpening jointer and thicknesser blades and I've come to the conclusion that when you get to 12in or more the saw doctor service is the best way forward. If, however, your blades just have a few nicks in them it might be possible (depending on the machine) to push one blade slightly to the right and the other slightly to the left offsetting the nicks by a millimetre or two - postpones a trip to the sharpener for a while at least.

Scrit

 

[White House Workshop]

I have a diamond planer blade sharpener that I bought from Woodworkers Warehouse about 8 years ago - but since they were bought out by Woodworkers Supply I can't find it any more. It was made by 'Vulcan'. Essentially a large piece of plastic with two honing stones, one set at 90 degrees and the other at 45 degrees - for each side of the planer blade. The blades in my Delta planer are almost 10 years old now and I haven't started on the spare set yet! I don't try to plane iron, although I did hit an embedded nail and took a huge nick out of one blade - but they are reversible on the Delta.

Woodworkers Supply does stock a number of diamond honing tools - maybe one would fit your bill? With $2 to the £ they are cheap these days, even with postage!

Or try this...
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-Diamond-Planer-Blade-Hone-22400.htm

 

[Loz_grain]

If you intend to make a habit of it (planing cast iron wood, that is) invest in a set of carbide tipped blades......... I've tried various methods of sharpening jointer and thicknesser blades and I've come to the conclusion that when you get to 12in or more the saw doctor service is the best way forward. If, however, your blades just have a few nicks in them it might be possible (depending on the machine) to push one blade slightly to the right and the other slightly to the left offsetting the nicks by a millimetre or two - postpones a trip to the sharpener for a while at least.

Scrit

Cheers Scrit, I wonder if I can get Carbide tipped blades for my thicknesser/planer, is a case of "one size fits all" for 10" x 6" machines, or are they make/model specific?

 

[Jake]

I got a set for my Scheppach from Method Tools - they had no problems ordering them in, cost about £80 or £90, as compared to the £160 or so for a pair of Scheppach OEM blades, and took a couple of weeks to arrive.

They knew the blade dimensions for an HMS260, but if you have some obscure model you might need to measure your blades (and slots, if any).

 

[Loz_grain]

I got a set for my Scheppach from Method Tools - they had no problems ordering them in, cost about £80 or £90, as compared to the £160 or so for a pair of Scheppach OEM blades, and took a couple of weeks to arrive.

They knew the blade dimensions for an HMS260, but if you have some obscure model you might need to measure your blades (and slots, if any).

that's been really helpful Jake, Method can get blades for nearly any model

Thanks

 

[Loz_grain]

Also, on the subject, just bought a load of Green Oak, how will my HSS blades fair on this?(just found out they are reverseble) should I wait for my TCT ones?

Cheers

 

[Jake]

TCT blades are only really advised for woods with high silica content where HSS would dull quickly, like teak for instance. HSS is better for most purposes as it doesn't chip as readily. HSS is fine for oak, although I've never tried planing green wood!