paraffin Heater

[kinverkid]

I've bit the bullet and bought/installed a diesel heater. I've held off up to now. I would normally just put on extra clothing and work a little harder to keep warm but my medication is making it almost impossible for me to work in a temperature below 9C (temporarily, I hope to be off it by end of February). I also had nowhere to put it inside. But, I watched a chap install his outside which, although not ideal, was an option I could work with. This means I won't be able to re-circulate warmed air already in the workshop but will have to continuously heat fresh air from outside. Diesel price local to me is around £1.69 so it still seems to be the cheaper fuel. Red diesel would be cheaper but I would have to buy it in bulk. Any hints or tips from longer term users?

 

[Spectric]

but I would have to buy it in bulk.

Why, there are some garages round here that sell red at the pump for the farming community so have you checked in your location.

 

[kinverkid]

Why, there are some garages round here that sell red at the pump for the farming community so have you checked in your location.

So far, I have found companies that will deliver but they either have a minimum in litres or value. I will, as you say, need to go further afield locally to the farming or boating community suppliers to see if I can collect it myself. Once I'm back out into the community, or as I like to call it The Pub, I'm sure someone will point me in the right 'red diesel' direction.

 

[artie]

I'm sure it's been said before, but Kero is cheaper and cleaner burning. I've seen filling stations and even supermarkets selling it in 4 litre jars.

If you thought it would make a significant difference you could make a duct to take workshop air out to the heater intake.

You could also draw the intake air over the exhaust to enhance the temperature.

 

[kinverkid]

I'm sure it's been said before, but Kero is cheaper and cleaner burning. I've seen filling stations and even supermarkets selling it in 4 litre jars.

If you thought it would make a significant difference you could make a duct to take workshop air out to the heater intake.

You could also draw the intake air over the exhaust to enhance the temperature.

Thanks Artie. I have found a supply of Kerosene now and they confirm what you said on both counts. Luckily they are friends that have a glut of it but only at the moment. I will still need/want to find a supply of either fuel if I find I still need to run it next winter. As for re-directing the air, I reckon I could put a Y piece in with a gate in to swap between re-circulated workshop air and the fresh stuff. I'll run it for another week or so and see if I need to. Had it running in Alpine mode today and I reckon I might (very rough guess) have used 300 to 500ml of diesel. I should have measured it properly when I added it really.
Because of its present position it would be difficult to run air past the exhaust but let me chew that one over.

 

[Inspector]

You should exercise caution running fresh air or recirculating air over the exhaust pipe because if there are any joint leaks or holes develop in the exhaust you get to breath it.

Pete

 

[kinverkid]

You should exercise caution running fresh air or recirculating air over the exhaust pipe because if there are any joint leaks or holes develop in the exhaust you get to breath it.

Pete

Thanks Pete. I was mulling it over and I don't think it would be possible with my set-up anyway. I watched a few Tubers running the exhaust through radiators and water pipes. Same again - wouldn't work for me. The workshop air re-circulation is still a possibility. It's 12M x 2.5M so I don't think stale air would be a problem for the amount of time I would be running it. But, saying that, I do like the idea that at the moment I'm breathing warmed up fresh country air. Decisions.

 

[artie]

Had it running in Alpine mode today and I reckon I might (very rough guess) have used 300 to 500ml of diesel. I should have measured it properly when I added it really.

Somewhere in the paperwork, it will tell you how much fuel is injected with each pulse of the pump.

So you can check the cycle rate and do some elementary mathematics, and save some time.

 

[furnace]

Somewhere in the paperwork, it will tell you how much fuel is injected with each pulse of the pump.

Most of these dosing pumps deliver 0.02ml per pulse, and run at a max of about 5 pulses per second, so about 360ml per hour at full chat. Mine only runs at that rate for maybe 30 mins, then achieves the preset temp 14degC and goes into tickover rate (about 1 pulse per second). I typically turn mine off then as lights and exertion keep it warm

 

[Keith 66]

Be interesting to hear how much condensation is produced. When we moved into our house the double garage (concrete slabs & asbestos roof) was unheated, Use of a space heater would make the walls & ceiling run with water which in the winter would rapidly freeze into ice. All my tools & machines ran red with rust. Much insulation & a new insulated roof later its toasty warm. Went out there last night & it was minus 1 degrees c. Lit the small woodburner & 20 minutes later it was up to 22 degrees c. Loverly!

 

[Misterdog]

Somewhere in the paperwork, it will tell you how much fuel is injected with each pulse of the pump.

Though Chinese paperwork can sometimes be a little 'less than accurate'.
My Chinese heater claims to be 8 Kw though at least 1Kw goes out of the exhaust.
The fuel consumption claims to be 'x' though I have found it uses more, and other models claim a higher useage for the same output.

At the end of the day they use little fuel and are far cheaper to run than the current cost of gas.
The units are considerably cheaper than the German equivalent so they are a thumbs up from me.

I currently use red diesel at £ 1.38 Litre though Kerosine/heating oil is available at some 88p/Litre though only available at minimum 500 Litres delivered.

 

[Misterdog]

Be interesting to hear how much condensation is produced.

None.
The combustion is fan exhausted, along with the moisture produced.
Only non exhausted heating produces moisture. Though on the down side much heat is also exhausted.

 

[jwDave]

Curious. How are you going to deal with the increased moisture or is it vented out of the shop?

Pete

Hi, I saw this in response to a search I was making on dehumidifier/heating my workshop. I totally get what you are saying so how do you heat/keep dry your workshop?

 

[Inspector]

Hi, I saw this in response to a search I was making on dehumidifier/heating my workshop. I totally get what you are saying so how do you heat/keep dry your workshop?

My shop is above the attached garage, the shop being on the same floor as the laundry, kitchen etc on the second floor. We have a demand hot water heater which also provides heat to the shop via a fan and radiator. Combination boiler in other words. Walls of the shop are 2x6" (house is 10 1/2") and insulated so it is basically room temperature throughout the winter unless I will be away for a while in which case the thermostat is turned down to about 15ºC or so. Climate here in the Prairies is dry especially in the winter so dehumidification isn't a problem. Right now it is -11ºC with a humidity of 75% outside. That air warmed up inside to 20ºC becomes 9% humidity.