Panell routing - Roman Ogees

[milkman]

Hi all,
Bit of advice needed. Been asked to box in a boiler in an alcove in the style of some existing joinery. They want it to match a built-in that’s already there, it has ogee mouldings. Not sure if you can buy this as applied beading so was going to rout it.
Can you use the combination panel door router bits such as this one on full height wardrobe doors? Would the glued area be strong enough?
Am thinking 530mm x 2000mm 18mm MRDF panelled door. I'm very limited on being able to mill timber so I was going down the MDF route.
Or should I be thinking real wood for something like this?

Ideas appreciated

Marko

 

[AndyT]

I think you really need to find out what your customer means by 'match' the existing. If it is in a house where Victorian joinery has been retained and looked after, routed MDF in a near-miss profile might be the start of a nasty dispute. But if they can't tell the difference in the woodwork they might prefer the lower priced option.
I suggest you find some example samples to show them, price them up and see what they really want and are prepared to pay for.

 

[milkman]

Good points Andy. I already headed up painted mdf as being a cheaper way to go for them and will further warn them that I can come close to the existing ones but an exact match. (More bothered about matching the crown mouldings!)
To clarify this new piece is in a separate room to the original cupboard so they won't have to stand side by side!

So what do you think? Is mdf upto the job strength wise?

 

[Eric The Viking]

Can you break it into two panels with a middle rail?

I've got a mirrored door in one bathroom that hides an attic. It's about 5' tall by 2'3" wide To save weight I took quite large rectangles out of the middle. It's 18mm and pretty strong, but was originally a single piece, not joined. That said, the hinge side is softwood, glued and biscuited into place.

I'd be surprised if a panel door didn't work, but I'd consider two panels anyway.

E.