Painting kitchen cupboards and doors

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paullap

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Hi , I am nearly ready to start making a new kitchen for our utility room , I am still undecided what wood to use, 1 option is to use plywood for the base and and poplar for the door frames, and ply or MDF, for the door panels, I would then want to paint it, what paints are available here in the uk, I would need a primer, base colour coat, and then a lacquer to give it a hard professional finish, if the products are available, any suggestions please, or I go for something like light oak, but I have been looking on the internet and I don’t know how easy it will be getting 6mm ply to match the frames, . I really want it light , not a dark wood.any suggestions please.

Paul
 
Just an idea
we have a large kitchen with water damage n orrible doors and tops.......
faced with buying new and the horrendus costs here, even at Ikea.....
we just replaced the doors n worktops......the insides are like new......
we wanted shiney easy clean....as it's a holiday rental.....
total cost for doors *custom made*, worktops and all new hardware was less than €800 euro's.....
I know there are plenty of door replacement companies in the UK so take ur pick.....
even B+Q sell just the doors.....u have so much choise in the UK......
not every bodies taste......what u see is only 1/2 the kitchen/utility....
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Best product that's safe to use, is Renner 643 primer, and then 760 top coat. You can get an additive to go in the 760 to harden it.
 
I used to make up to 2 hand made kitchens a year. I sourced melamine faced MR MDF from a local company who would dimension to my cutting list. I would biscuit my carcase together from this material and then plant a rebated M&T framework on the front. Simple panel doors with 9mm MR MDF panels were then hung inside the framework with brushed stainless steel hinges. All solid timber was Poplar/Tulip wood. I initially used a Mahogany but found the Poplar/Tulip was more stable. It also painted a treat. I used two coats of Acrylic Primer/U'Coat followed by three coats of Acrylic Eggshell. This will appear slightly soft but wears well. Most marks will rub off, it will not fade, is forgiving of minor dings due to the non-gloss finish and can be repainted with one coat after 5 or 6 years if needed.

Colin
 
Obviously you're going to save money by making it yourself. So can you use some of that saving offset to get yourself a pro spray system like something from Fuji ?.

Whenever we did a job for a customer that would need tooling or machinery that job required, we would try to include that in the overall price. We then buy it, eg spindle moulder cutter system for example door cutter. or even a lathe,
Customer gets their thing, we retain tools.
 
Whenever we did a job for a customer that would need tooling or machinery that job required, we would try to include that in the overall price. We then buy it, eg spindle moulder cutter system for example door cutter. or even a lathe,
Customer gets their thing, we retain tools.

Did you itemize the purchase of tools in the quote for the customer?

When we had our house painted, a quote from one of the companies included a line item for expendable material with a cost of €1,500. I asked for an itemized list of the material, and it included a Hilti hammer drill and full set of masonry bits for attaching the scaffolding to the exterior of the house. I told the owner if I consider his offer, the drill and bits are mine at the end of the job. He refused, so I rejected his offer.
 
A direct answer to your paint query, Screwfix Leyland Trade Acrylic white primer/undercoat, any type of top coat, I usually use Dulux Eggshell but as you are going to lacquer over it you could even use vinyl matt. I'd use Screwfix Trade Floor Varnish over the top coat, it comes in Gloss or Satin.
All of the above are readily available, reasonably cheap and very good.
Applied with a brush for the edges and roller for the flat surfaces, you'll get a great finish.
If you go down the oak route, oak veneered mdf is usually a good match to solid wood.
 
I would advise against self-painted kitchen cabinetry - the slightest knock and you have chips and dents there for ever - stick to a "real wood" finish - it makes any knocks less obvious.
 
Did you itemize the purchase of tools in the quote for the customer?

When we had our house painted, a quote from one of the companies included a line item for expendable material with a cost of €1,500. I asked for an itemized list of the material, and it included a Hilti hammer drill and full set of masonry bits for attaching the scaffolding to the exterior of the house. I told the owner if I consider his offer, the drill and bits are mine at the end of the job. He refused, so I rejected his offer.
Are you sure you don't live in Italy?
 
All very helpful information, now I dont have a clue what to do
I think I will make a couple of doors for practice and see how it goes


Thanks


Paul
 
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