Paint for garage doors made from floorboards

[martinka]

When we moved into this house in April, the previous owner left us a few hundred feet of pine (I assume) floorboard in the garage. There was already a 10ftx8ft shed built from it, so we decided to have new garage doors made from it, and a gate across the drive. Thinking it would be nice left natural, I sprayed the lot with Thompsons Water Seal (4 x 5ltr cans left by the previous owner!) but it's all looking a bit shabby now. So, we are thinking about painting the lot, but we don't really know the best paint to use. The last owner also left some Ronseal stain for fences but it says not to be used on smooth or planed wood, I assume because it is intended to soak into rough wood.

Should we just get some decent gloss for outdoors? Will it need primer? Anything else we need to know?

 

[finneyb]

Sikkens?

 

[ColeyS1]

Bedec barn paint- its awesome

Coley

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You may well find the Thompson's causes problems regardless what you paint it with - it is designed to repel anything put on it.

 

[Benchwayze]

Martin;

Seal the knots with knotting. Prime it with aluminium paint first to seal the preservative you used. Aluminium paint seals creosote, so it might work with the stuff you used. Then paint properly; i.e. undercoat and top coat. I dispensed with lead primer by using the aluminium paint. It worked. (Come to think, you probably can't get red-lead today anyhow )

HTH

John

 

[Benchwayze]

Bedec barn paint- its awesome

Coley

It's an awesome price too if you don't want black! :lol:

 

[gregmcateer]

I've just used linseed oil paint (http://www.preciousearth.co.uk/shop/viewcategory.php?groupid=0) on the recommendation of Jacob.

It is on my porch, which has been a real nightmare before this. It certainly needs only basic prep, goes on very easily, is the same paint for prime, under and top.
The finish is not as glossy as 'normal' gloss, but I like the slightly less 'crisp' finish on our Edwardian house. Colours can be a bit limited and the process takes longer elapsed time, as you need to allow longer between coats.

I can't comment on longevity yet, but Jacob absolutely swears by it.

HTH

Greg

 

[Benchwayze]

That's 'cos Jacob is old-fashioned. I agree with him for once though. The one problem is linseed-paint takes longer to dry. It's flexible though because of the linseed, so it's swings and roundabouts. It does give the nicest finish too; IMHO anyhow. It's virtually the same as 'hartists' use in oil painting. So I vouch for it for that reason.

John

 

[ColeyS1]

Bedec barn paint- its awesome

Coley

It's an awesome price too if you don't want black! :lol:

Yeah it seems a bit pricey. Consider the normal system.
Dulux recommends 2 coats of their aluminium primer, followed by undercoat followed by 2 top coats. If it's oil based that's 12-16 hours between 5 coats of paint plus the labour to paint it five times.
Bedec is one thinned down first coat,then a top coat.- it covers really really well ! 2hrs touch dry recoatable after 4 hrs.
I like it, but must admit it's only been on for just over a year- no signs of it failing yet though !

Coley

 

[martinka]

Thanks for the tips, gents, you've given me summat to think about. I suppose I am more concerned that the doors don't fall apart than their looks. If they don't fall apart before me, I'll be happy.

It's the Thompsons I was worried about covering. I don't want to buy expensive paint only to find it won't go on. If it might take some covering, I may settle for spraying the doors with the Thompsons every year or so until it's used up, probably 3 or 4 years, and then worry about it.

 

[martinka]

Just found this on the Thompson's web site:
Allow 45 days drying time before applying latex paint over Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Clear Multi-Surface Waterproofer.
Allow a minimum of 3 days drying time before applying oil based paint over Thompson’s® WaterSeal® Clear Multi-Surface Waterproofer.

So it looks like I won't have any problem painting over it.