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Adam Pinson

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Much as i love the outboard function on my DVR.... it always needs realigning, i do this by eyeing a couple of the pointy drives but when i try to create smaller lidded boxes i notice a fractional misalignment.... currently i don't have 30 plus quid to spend on a double ended morse taper chunk of steel, does anyone have a DIY fix? Any tips or tricks appreciated, cheers
 

Phil Pascoe

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Not quite £30 if you can make up the order for free P&P.
 

Adam Pinson

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Not quite £30 if you can make up the order for free P&P.
Thanks Phil, a better price indeed, it's just due to Brexit the customs here in Europe are having a field day with us Brits now, bogging us down with reams of paperwork and extra charges before delayed delivery..... just had a thought.... i wonder if i could make a replica in hardwood? And would it work ? hmmmmm🤔
 
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Phil Pascoe

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Why not?
I found the index hole on my Poolewood to put the centres about 3mm out, so I aligned it carefully and put a 1mm disc cut across the headstock and swivel base. I do use the alignment bar once in a while if I'm being ultra fussy, but two 1mm wide cuts are easy to line up.
 

Sachakins

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I did make a double ended wood MT2. It was an improvement over the eye ball of two points.

But in the end bought one, so glad I did, so quick and easy to use, worth the investment.
 

Inspector

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A chuck in the headstock and a drill chuck in the tailstock can be tightened on a steel bar or bolt with the head cut off, to do the same thing as the double taper bar.

Pete
 

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There are lots of things on the lathe we hope and assume are accurate and hope were made to a high tolerance but even a double taper bar might not give good results if the threads and taper in the headstock isn't concentric. Using the chucks would at least produce a result more in line with what you would expect when using them to turn the lidded boxes the OP wants to make. I could suggest using an 0.0001"/0.00254mm indicator and after chasing his tail for a few hours still not get his boxes and lids right because the chuck jaws are out by a country mile. The double chucks will get him in the ball park for little money, the reason he didn't want to get the double taper in the first place. I'm not perfect but my chucks are close. 😉

Pete
 

Happy amateur

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Another way I have used is to insert a 60degree live centre in the tailstock. bring the headstock and tailstock together with the live centre in the MT of the headstock. When contact made should be aligned.
 

gregmcateer

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The OP does say that doesn't work very well for him.
Phil,
I think HA means bringing the TS centre up to the empty hollow HS spindle - so the 60 degree centre goes into the spindle bore - if HS is 'loose', it should re align with the TS.
If I've misunderstood his post, apologies and I'll wind my neck in 🤐
 

Adam Pinson

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Thanks for the fine tips chaps, i did make a wooden replica and it seemed to work ok for the first few goes, then not so well..... looks like i'm going to have to invest in a good old steel double ender......
 

Adam Pinson

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Phil,
I think HA means bringing the TS centre up to the empty hollow HS spindle - so the 60 degree centre goes into the spindle bore - if HS is 'loose', it should re align with the TS.
If I've misunderstood his post, apologies and I'll wind my neck in 🤐
Greg, this worked perfectly, the supplied live centre fitted perfectly into the headstock spindle centre.... A superb solution🤟
 

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Adam Pinson

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That's great.
In the interests of full disclosure, it was happy amateur who suggested it - I just thought it was a great idea.
The live center is supplied with the lathe by Record power, it wouldn't really surprise me if this action was engineered/intended for this purpose.....🤔
 

Adam Pinson

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That's great.
In the interests of full disclosure, it was happy amateur who suggested it - I just thought it was a great idea.
I'm actually pretty sure now the Record power live center was also designed as a centering tool, the shape is built-in..... How nice of them, very thoughtful, great engineering....
 

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