Oil-stone

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Garno

Grumpy Old Git
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Hi,
I have a new oil-stone that I will be using for sharpening chisels.

My question is, how long should I allow it to soak in oil?
 
It depends on the stone, so you need to experiment.
What you want is for the fresh oil which you add for each use to stay on the surface while you are sharpening. That way it can float away the steel abraded from the tool.
If all the oil soaks in and disappears, your stone needs more oil before use.
If it sits on the surface, it's ready.
There are stones which will soak up lots of oil when new and other stones which won't.
 
Thanks AndyT,

I take it that even when fully soaked I still need to be putting oil on the top. ( I thought once soaked that was it (homer) )
 
Most good stones are from india and i wood soak it in fresh oil for 24/48 hrs and that should do the job,Will always need to add oil when sharpening unless its a hot day and then the stone gets hot and oil comes out.
 
I've got that exact stone, to be honest I think what is described as as medium for this stone is really only any use as a course stone for removing nicks or squaring up blades which is what I use it for, I find it very porous and can soak up a lot of oil. My personal preference is Norton India medium then fine for most sharpening purposes.
 
Garno":7i8oyqou said:
Hi,
I have a new oil-stone that I will be using for sharpening chisels.

My question is, how long should I allow it to soak in oil?
2 seconds?
You just splash on some oil and use it. If the oil soaks in splash on some more - in use it needs to be wet all the time. When finished wipe the oil off - if you leave it it may dry out and leave a deposit of swarf etc.
 
To avoid confusion Norton India stones are nothing to do with India (country) they are a man made stone manufactured by Norton, an American company one of their taglines is "Norton Abrasives India oil stones, "sharp and quick" ".
 
I was worried it would be one of those.

Chuck it in the bin now. They are worthless unless you have a real stone for actual shapening. It will wollow out very quickly. If you soak it it will soak up about a litre of oil then become very very soft. They are very heavy cutting and only really of use for initial shaping of an edge.

Saying that, i have one wrapped in an oily rag for first passes on old chisels. Its been flatterned about 4 times in the 4 years ive had it and it needs doing again now. I dont use it much as I have a real stone.
 
much better. still a composite, but better held together than the Stanley from my limit experience with it. don't soak it, chuck some oil on and go at it, once the oils gone, add a dash more. be careful, they cut surprisingly quickly.

don't forget you now need to make a nice box for it too, which will be the perfect time to use those nicely sharpened (and stropped, don't forget to strop on a nap of leather) chisels you've now got. have fun.

oh and once you have the hang of it, do away with the guide, this way Zen lies (once you are past the Jacob at the door you shall entire the eternal light of inner peace and razor sharpness, where only a true master may tread, the blossom is always in bloom, the grass is greener, the wine is smoother the light is mellow, you are a the one, the master, the neo, welcome lonely traveller, lay down your jig and your odd edged chisel)

and that's enough of that, no more sharpening thread. :D
 
For anyone who stumbles across this thread in the future, whether a stone needs to be soaked depends on the stone. Good manufactured stones don't need soaking at all because they've been 'filled' at the factory, natural stones generally won't absorb oil so they don't benefit from it.

If you do need to fill a stone yourself you shouldn't actually use oil, it's better done in a pan of hot petroleum jelly.
 
Garno":51xq58xs said:
Thank you everyone for the good advice you have given me.
As a result I have now purchased this...
Much better. This is a type of factory-filled stone.

These are now the classic combination oilstone. Indias are famously tough, you'll struggle to dish it in use and you'll never wear it out in your lifetime.

And yes, that's a good price for it. Although you can often pick these up at car boots for just a quid or two you needed it now, not at some indeterminate time in the future.

You will probably find you want to strop to refine your edges, or get a fine stone. The slates are a good, inexpensive choice if you want to try a finer stone but you can make a strop for free from stuff you have in the house, all it takes is a scrap of firm cloth stuck down to a strip of wood.

Back to your first stone, I would not chuck it in the bin as you may find it very useful in the future; you won't need it now, the coarser side of the Norton stone will be more than good enough for honing new edges. If/when you get around to using the grey one be careful about spreading the use and don't press hard as they're typically loosely bound and wear easily.
 
Thanks again everyone.

I really appreciate you all taking the time to reply and giving some great advice.

Gary
 
You can strop on MDF with Sovol metal polish etc.

Pete
 
topchippyles":30yy2s7t said:
That will be perfect for you and i would soak in oil for sure (good choice) and great price
As mentioned above, these are filled at the factory.
 
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