I have it on a 16 amp plug so fuses are not a problem.I know very little, but most of my "3hp" items eat fuses when run on 13a sockets due to inrush on startup.
And, as above, less teeth.
Simple thing for me to get a "less tooth" blade and I'll be very happy if that solves the prob.The blade on my saw is 315mm, and I use the 72-tooth for crosscut and plywood, a 48-tooth for general purpose, and the 28-tooth for ripping. I was lazy one day and had to rip a four-foot length of 50mm thick oak board with the 48-tooth blade. It didn't work well, so I had to put the 28-tooth blade on to rip without burning the wood.
16-24 at most! For quite fine rips in thinner material you can use a blade with upto about 40 teeth. Too many teeth mean the saw cannot clear the waste quick enough due to the small gullets, hence why you had the saw choke up a couple of times and try to kickback in the cut when going through knots, if not for the anti-kickback design it may have done. Geometry and tooth design also plays a big part in efficient saw cutting, for ripping cuts you want a blade with a positive rake of around 15 to 20-degrees, blades with numerous teeth may have less rake on them for cleaner cross-cutting which will make a blade terrible for ripping.How many teeth are recommended?
I've no idea of the horsepower of the saw, apart from what you say it is. The blade shown isn't ideal for ripping (combination maybe?), but not necessarily the worst I've seen, such as a HATB X cut blade with 60 - 80 teeth. I've seen saws bog down worse than that, but a dedicated rip blade would almost certainly be better, e.g., something like the one Trevanion linked you too.Here's a short vid of The 10" table saw with a supposedly 3 hp motor and a newish blade cutting a piece of 47mm soft wood.
If I feed it any faster it bogs down, you can hear it slowing a few times.
I think my 48-tooth blade would do well in this situation as well. However, there is a big difference in the teeth tip to tip spacing between a 315mm 48-tooth blade and a 254mm 48-tooth blade. Applying the tooth spacing of the 254mm blade to a 315mm blade is the equivalent of a 60 teeth on the 315mm blade.I don’t think it’s doing well at all, I have a TA 315 Sedgwick and I just keep a general-purpose 48 tooth blade on it all the time and it would eat that for breakfast with no slowing down at all. What to recommend I don’t know, is it a blunt blade? Is the saw underpowered? I think it’s the latter. Ian
It's a jet JTS 600 series, 11 years old, I've had it for 5 or 6.What is the saw? Is it new? there is always the possibility of a fault. You can get really inexpensive plug in power monitors which would show what power the saw is consuming. A crude test, but might show a fault. I'm not endorsing this one, but just to show the type of unit I mean. I got mine from ALDI.
A couple of things to sanity check. I'm sure you will have already...have you inspected the teeth and confirmed they are still sharp or not clogged with aluminium if you hit the fence with that blade.
I think it's the latter as well but others think it's fine.I don’t think it’s doing well at all, I have a TA 315 Sedgwick and I just keep a general-purpose 48 tooth blade on it all the time and it would eat that for breakfast with no slowing down at all. What to recommend I don’t know, is it a blunt blade? Is the saw underpowered? I think it’s the latter. Ian
Yes that is where the fence it usually placed, but I took it back a little last night to negate any possibility, no matter how slight, of binding.However, what really caught my eye in the video was the rip fence set too short. The wood left the toe of the fence before the cut was completed. Set the front end of the fence a bit further forward so that the wood is trapped between it and the spinning blade until just after the cut is completed, and then the wood is released. Slainte.
There's one cap to be seen. A 400v 20 uf recently replaced. I had a guy test it, he said it was showing 16 uf so I replaced it. Made no difference.A 3HP motor equates to a 2.2KW motor, a good amount of power for the task. With this motor, if your clogging up the blade you should be experiencing push back where the timber suddenly gets ejected back at you, which is slightly different to kick back where the back of the blade picks up the stuff and throws it at you. Anyway, that’s a bit of semantic. What should not be happening is your bogging down the blade. Have a look at the motor, I suspect strongly that’s it a single capacitor motor where the cap serves to both start and run the motor. When starting you won’t hear a discernible click when the centrifugal switch actuated. This type of motor is cheap, and not really suitable for a table saw, but often fitted to hit a price point. Fitting a more suitable blade will improve matters.
The other potential issue is that if it has a separate start and run capacitor, the run capacitor needs replacing.