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Hi Mark

I've escaped from hospital and had a look at mine as promised. There is a part missing on your handle assembly.

First here are pics corresponding to yours, of the handle wound clockwise and anticlockwise. There is virtually no backlash. And note that what backlash there is is nothing to do with wear on the leadscrew or nut. It is adjustment of the handle assembly.

compound drive - 1.jpg


compound drive - 2.jpg


Removing the end screw allows you to see the mechanism. The arrowed component, a spacer, is missing on yours.

compound drive - 3.jpg


It is not a thrust bearing, just a spacer, totally pointless to make this a bearing. Its purpose is precisely to adjust the backlash in this drive, and allow the graduated scale to be set easily. If too thin (as yours is, being zero!) it gives backlash in the drive. If too thick, it will clamp up too strongly on the knurled component above, which contains a friction clutch allowing the scale to be rotated (to set to zero, for example) without turning the leadscrew, and will not allow you this useful technique. So the thickness has to be accurate. I measured mine at 1.80 mm thick, but yours may be slightly different. ID is 11 mm, OD 19.5 but you obviously need to check this on yours. Looks like the first job when the lathe is set up!

This is the part you need to make, along with the key just in case that is missing. I think the stepped form is deliberate.

compound drive - 6.jpg


Any wear in the nut/screw is additional to this setting backlash. While the above method of making nuts is useful, in my lathe the main wear is on the central region of the leadscrew, not the nut. And the nut itself is an odd external shape, with wings to fit neatly in the housing, so a plain cylinder nut will not do. The thread, from memory, is 12 mm x 1 mm square, but I'd need to check that. They are available fairly cheaply.


Hope this helps

Keith
 

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thank you for the pics Keith.

How large is the bench that yours is sat on- I assume that it will need to be quite deep to accommodate the motor and countershaft. Would something like 2ft 3 be enough, in which case a solid firedoor would do nicely as a bench top.
 
it is very handy for tasks like that, even if it is a little on the thirsty side.
 
marcros":13gwpk3g said:
thank you for the pics Keith.

How large is the bench that yours is sat on- I assume that it will need to be quite deep to accommodate the motor and countershaft. Would something like 2ft 3 be enough, in which case a solid firedoor would do nicely as a bench top.

Mark

My Boley cast iron bench is 115 x 42 cm, but the layshaft sticks out at the back making the total width 80 cm. This is actually a bit more than needed. My spindle-layshaft distance is 50 cm and this is about ideal for the pulley sizes, but I think you could safely go down to 40 cm. It should fit on a door-size bench if you put the layshaft assembly right at the back and the lathe a bit forward of the centre. I would double the thickness of the bench top though.

Keith
 
Thanks. I have got some spacing bars for the layshaft, when I work out where they go!

80cm is 2'8 so a door blank should work- either 2'6 or 2'9.
 
If you wish to know a little, or a lot, about Boley lathes there is plenty of info on the Lathes website. This website is a major source of details for old and not so old machines. It is very well known but I do not see it getting a mention on this thread.

To find it go to Google and put in lathe Boley and it almost certainly will come up first.
Harold Hall
 
thanks Harold. the site was a great help when I was looking at whether to buy or not. I have half a bench made- i need to get a top on it now.
 
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