New lathe kit

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Dan-K

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30 Jan 2010
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Location
Staplehurst, Kent
[Warning-gloat ahead]
Well, it is with some trepidation I present my new lathe kit - once I've worked out how to assemble it I shall have to venture into the world of spinny things proper :shock:

I think the first piece might have to go to SWMBO - she had to go on a day trip just to collect this little lot with me, and still doesn't really understand why I 'need' all this kit :lol:
I tried to explain I was getting a really good deal compared to what it was actually worth but I'm not sure I convinced her! :)

So I went to pick up a DML36SH + 'chisel sharpener' and came back with:
Newlathekit.jpg


:D :D :D

A DML36SH with variable speed motor upgrade, a ProEdge, chisels, chucks, bowl blanks and all the trimmings! Everything under a year old, barely used. Some of it still in sealed packaging 8) Sold by the son of an old boy who had had to give up turning. I had originally been intrigued by the motor on the lathe: it wasn't the usual one...hmmm. Closer inspection revealed it was a variable speed motor as found on the much more expensive CL1 :shock: Oh yes said the chap, he changed the motor - do you want the old one as well? Might as well I said :lol: Theres quite a few bits for it as well he says. I'll get it all out of your way I say, tucking a couple of Nova G3 chucks in the large cardboard box he handed me, along with the faceplates, live and dead centres, unused calipers... :wink: Do you want some wood blanks as well? Go on then... Some friction polish? OK... :lol:
[/gloat]

Sorry, I just had to share :wink:
 
Very nice depending on how much you paid assuming it was a bargain well done.

Even a cuddly toy I see. :lol:

john
 
Bloody good haul that man! A ProEdge to boot! 8)


Have you turned before Dan? If you want some help setting it all up, let me know.
 
In Scotland we call folk like you a 'JAMMY B*****D!' :lol:

Seriously, well done on a super deal, hope you make the best of it and really looking forward to your first piece off the lathe.

Aw the best.
 
I'm going to assume the gnome was yours. Either way, burn that, and you've got a cracking collection of stuff.

Well done, jammy git
 
wabbitpoo":li61xggs said:
I'm going to assume the gnome was yours. Either way, burn that, and you've got a cracking collection of stuff.
:lol: Don't let my daughter hear that, Happy is her favourite toy!

Yes, I think I got the real 'package deal' on this one :D
I think if I had just come away with a standard DML36SH and the ProEdge I'd have made a reasonable purchase for the money. On top of that I can't price the variable speed inverter motor but as the CL1 is £600 and otherwise reasonably similar to my lathe I think it must be worth a few hundred. Add in two Nova G3 chucks at £100 each, A set of Perform tools maybe £50, £25 for calipers (still sealed), bonus bowl blanks, etc...I think I got a good deal. I certainly felt like Christmas when I laid it all out at home :D

Tom, thanks for the offer, no I haven't turned before, have been lurking on the round section of the site for a couple of months, looked at all the kit I'd need and thought most of the decent stuff was out of my price range by the time I got a lathe, chuck, chisels, grinder etc etc. I'd resigned myself to starting with an old cheap lathe, no chuck (cost more than a lathe does :shock: ) and possibly the cheapest grinder available - the bare minimum - then saw this kit come up and thought stuff the Slope, I'll take a running jump off the cliff instead... :lol: Well, I'll see how I get on with the assembly, he gave me the manuals for the lathe, but I might need some advice on the Proedge and I'm sure theres a massive amount to learn about turning itself too :)

By the way, my first question: why might I need two Nova G3 chucks?
 
Dan-K":e7mdgnme said:
By the way, my first question: why might I need two Nova G3 chucks?

so you can put button or cole jaws on one, and standard (or o donnel jaws, or similar) on the other

I realise that might not be very clear as you are new to turning so i'll elucidate

Standard jaws are used for holding a bowl etc on the bottom so you can hollow it (Odonnel jaws likewise but these give you more access to the bottom), button or cole jaws are used to hold an otherwise finished bowl by the rim so you can turnay the spiggot or recess that the standard jaws went into.

you can have two sets of jaws and just keep on switching them on a single chuck, but that is fiddly so turners often prefer to have two chucks

button/cole jaws

340956_s.jpg


o donnel jaws
718321_s.jpg


standard jaws

210887_s.jpg


these pics are axminster jaws but similar are available for the nova
 
an alternate reason to have two chucks is that sometimes (like when working with fragile wood, it might be desirable to leave a chuck on an unfinished work pice while you are doing something else on the lathe
 
Nice haul. Any problems with this lot, just send it to me in Lanzarote, at least it won't get rusty. :lol:
 
Well done

Nice purchase

Hope you do like Wood turning or it will take up lots of space , Then just let me know and I will pop round and clear it for you :wink:

Remember " Workshop safety " Eye protection and LUNG protection , Dust extractor :p :p
 
Blister":2r4g20g0 said:
Remember " Workshop safety " Eye protection and LUNG protection , Dust extractor :p :p
Good point. I was going to get a Trend Airace, will that be OK for this? Dust collection or chip collector? I have a basic Axi collector or a Dyson, but I can't quite envisage how/where it would attach to the lathe and I don't recall seeing such on youtube :oops: I'd like to consider this option though if it can be done :)

Richard, I gave a large clue with the 'if I'd bought a standard lathe + Proedge...' line, which implies approx 200 + 300, knock a bit off for it not being quite new...
OK, OK, it was 410 for the lot and I don't care if I paid too much I like it :p Seriously though, I got a good deal right? A nearly new variable speed lathe and a ProEdge and all that stuff for under half the new price... :?:

Thanks Moose for the explanation. Another basic question I guess: Are the button jaws for reversing off the foot of a bowl? I get that the standard jaws grip a foot on the base of the bowl whilst turning (I think). Still haven't quite got the hang of these chucks!

PS: Thanks to KeithS for the heads-up on this lot. Without him, I'd have more money to spend elsewhere :p
 
Dan-K":drr5jdis said:
Thanks Moose for the explanation. Another basic question I guess: Are the button jaws for reversing off the foot of a bowl? I get that the standard jaws grip a foot on the base of the bowl whilst turning (I think). Still haven't quite got the hang of these chucks!

yes - they hold the bowl by the outside (or inside if youve gone for a lipped edge) of the lip so you can turn the foot - its sometimes worth bringing up the tail centre for extra support

btw on air masks - the air ace gives good filtration but the attachable face sheild is rubbish for turning as it is open at the top and fills up with shavings - and you must have eye and face pro - so you could wear an air ace with a face sheild but in the long term it would be worth getting either an air cap from jsp or an airshield from trend

extractor wise its not critical if you arevwearing a dust mask - so long asyou dont remove it imediately after you've finished turning - but idealluy you want an extractor that filters down to 0.5 micron and possiblly an air filter as well - check out ebay for second hand deals (or talk to blister)

its expensive but not as expensive as knackering your lungs

and you dont attach it to the lathe - you use a wide mouth on the end of the hose and position it near the headstock - a lot of people use a speaker magnet to hold it to either the bed or the top of the headstock - eitherway makesure the wide mouth dousent foul the work or the chuck
 
Hi Dan

Yep, that is certainly a great steel! Wot a lot of kit, amazing.

Now the fun begins and it looks like you have had lots of good advice already.

I know I keep promoting my website but it just so happens that i have a couple of photos of one example of a dust extraction hood on my lathe (home made) which can help when sanding or even turning (small items in this case. But you could make a bigger one for larger diameter stuff.

http://www.orcamesh.com/Orcamesh/My_Woodwork_Albums/Pages/Machine_Tools.html#25

For many tasks I just let the shavings fall all over me, the lathe and the floor. I can recommend you watch the Foundation Course DVD by Keith Rowley, and his book, see link :

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Woodturning-Foundation-Course-Keith-Rowley/dp/1861081146

The worst dust is obviously coming from the sanding process.

You can also use a face plate to hold your blank and turn the foot and underside of the bowl firstly, finishing all surfaces before removing it from the face plate and then attaching the foot to button jaws, dovetail jaws or odonnell jaws as other have highlighted, so you can then turn the inside of the bowl.

I can also recommend going on a course (see my website about APTC Turning course).

Hope this helps?

cheers
HM
 
Thanks Hawk, that looks OK. I guess you are using what I would call a chip collector (HVLP) by the looks of the maybe 100mm pipe... I'll have to get a longer pipe for mine :)

I have the Rowley book - very clear to read. Not sure if I have the cash for a course currently - need a respirator first!
 
Dan-K":1zccx6ww said:
Thanks Hawk, that looks OK. I guess you are using what I would call a chip collector (HVLP) by the looks of the maybe 100mm pipe... I'll have to get a longer pipe for mine :)

I have the Rowley book - very clear to read. Not sure if I have the cash for a course currently - need a respirator first!

axminster sell the 100mm pipe (tho you can probably get it cheaper on ebay) -the key is to make sure that the chip/dust extractor filters down to at least 0.5 micron (if you've got one of those ones with a cloth bag that blows out when in use it probably doesnt , but you can by fine filter attachments relatively cheaply) , as if it doesnt it will just circulate dust arround and make it stay in the air longer

If you've got a respirator (or an air ace type mask) then this isnt critical, but the thing to remember is that there is still dust in the air afteryou stop turning so dont whip your mask off straight away

If you want to play with your lathe before you have a respirator I 'd suggest turning some green wood to practice (something inocuous like sycamore - definitely not yew or laurel) as green wood puts out far less dust - you still need to wear a disposable mask and eye and face pro though (you might also want to wear ear defenders - I do because i'm prone to tinititus after a career of working with light plant, but some turners dont like them because they listen to thetone of the wood while turning - its a personal choice)

by the way course wise - its not critical, i'd been turning four years before i went on my first course, but it is useful to get some one more experienced to show you the ropes - luckily for you there is something of a UKW kent posse so you can probably get tom, or oryx, or one of the other boys to come round to play
 
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