Help with new old lathe

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Thanks. I've seen .M24 X 2.5 but also 1" by 10tpi listed on the web.
I have faceplates for the inboard and outboard spindles, drive centre, tailstock centre, a Jacobs style chuck(with no key, but fortunately the chuck key from my Ferm bench drill fits), a 1/2"(?) Collet chuck of dubious merit, and a giant aluminium faceplate with the wrong, but almost right thread, screws on a turn or so, but obviously no use.
So I guess I can at least gain some experience, and see if I like this slippery slope...
 
Another question. This lathe has a 1 hp motor. Does it need to be that big? It's a right heavy pipper, and will eat my solar power. Should I be on the lookout for something a bit smaller?
 
Probably 1/4 but could be UNF, UNC or Whitworth. Be careful of the latter two as they have the same pitch, but a different thread profile. Hopefully someone on here will know.
English Lathe not American so 1/4 Whitworth
 
Whitworth up to 3/8 is basically the same as UNF......interchangeable for our needs.....
even if u use a new tap or die......it'll make no diff.....
 
A quick dig around on eBay will show a good number of inexpensive thread gauges for 55 and 60 degree threads, handy for the workshop generally and should at least show which thread you are dealing with.

Lidl had some in a month or so back so you may find one locally and they weren't bad for the price
 
Whitworth up to 3/8 is basically the same as UNF......interchangeable for our needs.....
even if u use a new tap or die......it'll make no diff.....
Whitworth and UNF are definitely not the same, different tpi across the range. I suspect you meant UNC. Even this is incorrect. If the threads are cut properly, and a good fit then the angle difference means they are not intechangeable. If the threads are poorly formed or worn then this may be the case, as the tpi is the same on most sizes, however if you do a mismatched bolt up tight you will be putting excessive strain on the threads, and they will eventually strip. Usually it will be your cast iron thread that will let go, rather that the bolt, leaving you with a much more expensive repair that just going to the trouble of getting the correct thread in the first place.
 
I should perhaps add that this is not purely theoretical. I work a lot on old machine tools. If you look at a quality machine like a Harrison or Colchester lathe, the threads are cut so accurately that you cannot screw a UNC fastener into their BSW threads.
 
Ordered some 1/4 Whitworth grub screws, good snug fit.
I haven't had any luck trying to source a cheap alternative motor for this lathe, so I'll stick with the massively heavy 1kW beast that came with it. The previous owner had it mounted on gate hinges, but the way it was done allowed too much flexing of the hinges, which meant that under tension(the tensioning mechanism being the weight of the hinged motor) the motor twisted somewhat.
I'd like to keep the hinge idea, but planning to bolt a piece of 18mm buffalo board to the base of the motor(bearing in mind that the "base"will actually be leaning away from vertical, to achieve the tensioning, and then use a couple or three 4" door hinges. Is this viable, or are hinged motor mounts that self tension a bad idea?
 
Good to hear you got the screw sorted. Can't see any issue with your hinged motor, important thing is to keep it all in the correct orientation throughout its movement. As you say difficult if the hinges are too flimsy.
 
Good to hear you got the screw sorted. Can't see any issue with your hinged motor, important thing is to keep it all in the correct orientation throughout its movement. As you say difficult if the hinges are too flimsy.
Thanks. I was slightly concerned that it might bounce, but have decided I can always add a slotted stay later. I have some M8 Bristol levers waiting for a job.
 
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