New Garage doors advice

[Hemsby]

I have for me an ambitious plan to make a new frame & garage doors, consisting of 3 doors (hammer)

Two will be bi fold, each .68 wide & one .76 wide, height 1.98. The frame made from 75x 50 redwood, panels 18mm external or marine ply.

My intention for construction is to blind M&T & glue all joints with a 12mm deep rebate in the stiles & rails to take the panels.

Should the panels be glued or left loose, if loose what clearance?.

Are the stile & rail dimensions adequate?

I planned all the rails 75 wide for aesthetic reasons, should the bottom rail be wider than the rest?

What clearance around the doors would be suitable?

As the internal & external sides of the finished painted doors will be subject to different weather conditions what acclimatising of the timber if any should I consider prior to construction?

The chances of buying straight timer is about zero so I will buy oversize and plane to required dimensions.

The rough sketch may help :roll:

All advice & suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thank you

Regards,

Keith

 

[blackrodd]

Hemsby, This will be an interesting post for me.
Years ago, every wet and windy winter, here in sunny Devon, we went all over the place, shooting, and refitting timber garage doors, some that we had fitted ourselves. ( Thank God for Catnic etc).
Some were the Devils own job to open with minimal damage.
Then in the springtime, back again tacking 6mm strips to fill in the gaps.
So, whatever you do, I suggest that you allow for the winter elements in you're design,
Gapping the centre boards etc.
And a hardwood sacrificial strip screwed on each end, adjusted and replaced each season, when needed.
Regards Rodders

 

[Myfordman]

Apply lots of preservative to the rebates before assembly and after assembly try a bead of paintable sealer from the panels onto the frames otherwise water will run down the panels and collect in the rebates. A chamfer on the lower edge frame for each panel will help too.

I'd make the top and bottom horizontal much wider and use substantial twin wedged tenons into the uprights.

I can appreciate the desire to make from wood but metal or glass fibre will last a lot longer in our climate

 

[RobinBHM]

I would suggest bigger rails, assuming your tenon is in the rebate, you will lose 24mm off the tenon on the mid rails and more on the top and bottom rail as there is 12mm deducted for the rebate and probably at least 30mm off for the tenon haunch. I would probably suggest 100mm rails and perhaps 150 bottom.

If you externally beading consider a projection bead for the bottom beads with a drip and a cut out to allow drainage. The bottom bead can be cut the full width of the rebate and the side beads cut down to the bottom bead. I realise you may prefer beads mitred all round but long term the bottom bead and mitres are vulnerable to moisture ingress.

To maximise life of paintwork, I would put a V joint at each tenon, route a 3mm radius on all edges, fully paint all rebates, panels, beads before assembly. Tricoya mdf would be better for the panels but is very expensive.

The panels could be quite slack, maybe 4mm all round and possibly 6mm at the bottom. There is no point gluing, although silicone could be used. If you put a thin bead of silicone around the back of the rebate before the panel goes in, when set this will help strengthen the door by resisting racking.

If water gets in behind the beading it will run down into the joints, so I always use a bead of silicone in the corners before the panel goes in. Silicone is only ok to use is everything is prepainted.

 

[Hemsby]

Apologies for my late response, been laid up with this dreaded chest/ throat infection.

Appreciate the comments & advice and have taken them on board. I considered UPVC, would be the ideal answer in terms of stability and maintenance issues but do not like the idea of such a large visual area of plastic 8) .

Received two quotes for a roller shutter door but a price of approx £2500 pounds was out of the question .

Top & bottom rails changed to 100mm (hammer)

Again thank you.

Regards,

Keith

 

[Steve Maskery]

100mm is fine for the top but is too narrow for the bottom. 200 or 250 would be better, both structurally and visually.

 

[Hemsby]

100mm is fine for the top but is too narrow for the bottom. 200 or 250 would be better, both structurally and visually.

Thank you for the advice bottom now 200mm.

Would Redwood be ok for the frame :?:

Regards,

Keith

 

[Steve Maskery]

I sincerely hope so, it's what I'm planning to use to make mine.
S

 

[Hickorystick]

I've just made new doors for my new workshop.
Previously a large single garage with a metal up and over door.
I initially ordered 2 upvc double glazed window panels 500 x 700.
The doors were made from a 3 x 2 frame, kingspan insulation board inside and 12mm marine ply internal/ external skin cut to accommodate the windows.
Everything glued and screwed, windows fitted and siliconed, and hung with heavy steel hinges.
Doors were finished with 3 part Dulux Weathershield system paint.
All fitted with internal top & bottom bolts and hasp and staples with padlock.
Very happy with the result and rock solid secure.

 

[Hemsby]

I sincerely hope so, it's what I'm planning to use to make mine.
S

 

[Hemsby]

I've just made new doors for my new workshop.
Previously a large single garage with a metal up and over door.
I initially ordered 2 upvc double glazed window panels 500 x 700.
The doors were made from a 3 x 2 frame, kingspan insulation board inside and 12mm marine ply internal/ external skin cut to accommodate the windows.
Everything glued and screwed, windows fitted and siliconed, and hung with heavy steel hinges.
Doors were finished with 3 part Dulux Weathershield system paint.
All fitted with internal top & bottom bolts and hasp and staples with padlock.
Very happy with the result and rock solid secure.

My doors are to replace an electric up & over door, perfectly good condition (stripped & re painted last year) but the retro fitted electrical motor box and gear reduces the internal garage height for about 1/3 of the garage length and I am getting bored with cracking my head on the gear :x . Any form of padding only reduces the height further so drastic measures are required (hammer) .

Not sure about windows though although extra light is always good.