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Waka

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A few weeks ago I mention that as a novice turner I wanted to spend the winter improving my limited skills.

In the past I've made a basic bowl, screw driver handles, candle stick and the like. But I've never made a box, sat down this morning and watched a few u tube thingies to get the basic idea. Off to the workshop I went full of apprehension, thinking if the worst comes to the worst, my neighbour has a wood burner.

After a while I came up with this.

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Now I know it's not perfect and I wasn't intending to make it so small, but with all mishaps whilst hollowing out the main body, this is the result size wise.
Any help on doing the main body including tools to use would be very much appreciated, don't want to buy the wrong things.

I really had difficulty during the hollowing, I think my bowl gauge is too long for fiddly bits, so I might have to take another trip to Yandles and see what I can find. I guess I can only improve, the other thing I learnt was making jam chucks, took a while to get it right but it came together in the end.
 

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It may not be the biggest box but You have done a good job as it is a first, there are going to be a lot of firsts now. The main thing is that you have learnt new skills and techniques so keep at it and enjoy every moment.
 
Size is irrelevant - in fact smaller is often more of a challenge (you have less tolerance).
You've achieved a good finish on a simple but well executed form with nice 'character' - and you've learned the basics of jam-chucks - a good day in the workshop.
 
Actually that shape is quite difficult to do, straight vertical sides and a flat bottom, the transition in the corner is not at all easy. Even more so with Small piece. So be proud of it.
 
Thank Woodfarmer, much appreciated.
I made another couple yesterday, slightly bigger, when I've polished them up I'll post.
 
For small boxes the best way to hollow them out is with a forstner type drill bit mounted in the tail stock, this will give a rapid removal of material and allow for an easy clean up afterwards, and in the case of "square" boxes like yours, it leaves a nice square interior, I use a square carbide cutter for the finishing cuts, I'll post some pics up later if I'm not beaten to it, on how to make one.

The box you made is really very nice though.
 
I make boxes a tad smaller than that (on purpose)
I give then to people about to get married as wedding day ring boxes

It's now sort of a tradition amongst our relatives and friends that a box will be forthcoming
With practice a rather satisfying sound can be obtained when removing the lid
 
I have been meaning to write a reply for a while about this, so sorry for the delay.
The angle of the grind of the bowl gouge affects how deep you can go in the box with sides vertical to the bottom. The typical angle is about 60 degrees, which gives strength, and is a good starting point. However, when turning an item with vertical walls then a bowl gouge with a shallower angle, or say about 45 degrees will mean that you can make the cut while maintaining bevel support.
Another option, depending upon the shape of the flute of the gouge (ie, this works with a traditional flute shape rather than the Ellsworth shape) and the grind having slightly swept back wings allows the use of the bottom left corner of the flute to make the cut (while the flute opening is vertical, rather than rolled over a bit), instead of the typical absolute bottom of the flute.
A bit difficult to describe, but I hope this makes some sense.
Andy.
 
leisurefix":3ih2ten8 said:
I have been meaning to write a reply for a while about this, so sorry for the delay.
The angle of the grind of the bowl gouge affects how deep you can go in the box with sides vertical to the bottom. The typical angle is about 60 degrees, which gives strength, and is a good starting point. However, when turning an item with vertical walls then a bowl gouge with a shallower angle, or say about 45 degrees will mean that you can make the cut while maintaining bevel support.
Another option, depending upon the shape of the flute of the gouge (ie, this works with a traditional flute shape rather than the Ellsworth shape) and the grind having slightly swept back wings allows the use of the bottom left corner of the flute to make the cut (while the flute opening is vertical, rather than rolled over a bit), instead of the typical absolute bottom of the flute.
A bit difficult to describe, but I hope this makes some sense.
Andy.

Thanks Andy, at this stage I need all the advice I can get.
 
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