Need to Finish?

[woodiedonald]

Hi,

I'm wondering about the need to apply a finish to something turned which is basically only decorative and may never see any wear and tear. Its a platter I've turned from ash and I like the look of it as it is, has a nice pale colour and flat/un-glossy finish.

Do I really need to finish it?

Some pics for those here for a gawk.

Cheers,
Donald.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

It will end up with dirty marks on it. Have you tried OsmoPolyX? That's fairly flat, and doesn't darken light woods too much. It's a piece of puss to use as well.

 

[CHJ]

If you do not at least seal the wood and close off the surface pores then it will collect and hold dust, wiping off the surface dust may well leave particles in the open pores resulting in it looking dirty over time.

If it's an item likely to be handled, if not sealed it will rapidly take on a grease patina from peoples hands.

Likewise if used to contain such as nuts, potpurri or the like it will readily stain by taking up free oils etc.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I would be inclined to oil it. That will protect as the boys above have given you the reasons for and it will darken it a little but the grain will really stand out when you do and I doubt you'll regret it. To be sure you like the effect test on a swatch first. A simple linseed or tung or Danish oil will do, it doesn't matter that much what it is as you just need it protected AND a flat finish which oil will give in spades.

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

I concur on all of the above. Tung oil gives ash a lobely finish. Really accents the grain. You could also apply a satin lacquer, which would not colour it but really shows the grain.
I have a pine key-catcher I turned when I first started. I didn't apply any finish to it, because I liked the way it looked at the time. It got dirty very quickly, and is now sitting in a wardrobe with pot pourri in it.

 

[paulm]

Personally I would be wary of oiilng it unless you will be happy with it turning darker and yellowish over time, all the different types of oils and brands I've tried do that. It doesn't matter on darker timbers but can really change lighter ones like ash, sometimes the yellowing taking a few months to happen.

On pale woods on smaller pieces I've used acrylic lacquer spray with pretty good success, and it can be matted down after with webrax or similar if needed.

Cheers, Paul

 

[marcros]

I would go with brushed blonde shellac. That said, I don't have any experience with lacquers- on paper they sound appropriate though. I also would avoid an oil in general- the ones that I have tried all seem to yellow ash, although not used the polyx mentioned above.

 

[Harbo]

I would go for blonde shellac or melamine lacquer.

Rod

 

[Richard Findley]

I'd go for an acrylic lacquer. acrylics are about as clear as finishes get and so will leave it as natural a colour as possible. Whether you use a spray on or wipe on is up to you though.

Cheers

Richard

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I must say I do tend to agree with the notion of the yellowing effect of oils even though I am an advocate of oil. I suspect Linseed would be the biggest culprit in this respect.

One thing that occurs to me is clear cuprinol. I had a similar problem with old oak beams of an old cottage we sanded back to the perfect colour. Loathe to change that we discovered clear cuprinol causes the grain to pop out without changing the colour at all

 

[JimB]

Another vote for blonde shellac.

 

[manxman]

I've used polyvine satin wax varnish on pine in the past and was very happy with how little it changed the colour.

 

[KimG]

Shellac would both seal and provide a finish in one hit, plus if you prefer an non glossy look it is easy to knock the shine off with some fine wire wool, yet the seal will remain.