My new workshop

[JanneKi]

Doesn't all that steelwork provide galloping thermal bridging?

It's in the middle sized buildings over here where there are issues. After a couple of high-profile incidents there is a lot of concern about problems in medium to large timber frame structures and the fire services are pressing for changes in building regulations due to concerns about rapid spread of fire, most particularly during construction where timber frame is at its most vulnerable.
[/quote]
Oh yes, I know what is meant here. It's the sectioning of the bigger spaces with fire-barries, typically in Finland - depending on the fire-rating - we have to put in E30, E60 or E120 fire barriers/sections. Those are typically done with gypsum boards, double layers of those. For example the garage roof had to be done with double gypsum boards and also the wall facing my neighbour had to be done with gypsum. These will not prevent the fire, but they do give time for the fire department to arrive and well, contain the issue.

The high-houses made of wood are still work in progress here, we don't have many that are higher than 3 stories. The issue is the even of fire, although they start to overcome that with some sort of sprinkler systems. That still leaves the issue of - you had fire, sprinklers took care of - what do you do with your extremely wet high house now? Especially the high insulation levels are problematic, since once you start to get into passive constructions - the structures are actually totally non-tolerant for any moisture.

 

[colinc]

Hi,

just a bit of an update although the picture is a week out of date and the roof is now fully tiled.



I now need to think about the door. It was going to be diagonal across the corner but I am now thinking of making a folding set that form a corner. Either way, I need the opening width maximised in order to get the aircraft fuselage in and out although I won't need to do that very often.



regards,

Colin

 

[the_g_ster]

Nice build.

Cool dog too!

 

[colinc]

Hi,

been a busy autumn and progress on the workshop stalled whilst I got other jobs done. However, i have managed to make some progress getting the Cedral cladding fitted. Doors and windows are arriving this week hopefully, so might have it weatherproof by the new year:





Colin

 

[MickCheese]

Looking good.

That is a big hole in the corner.

Mick

 

[nathandavies]

nice looking workshop
like the corner

 

[colinc]

Hi,

The door is going across the corner. My Chilton aircraft project has a 7ft span centre section with the wings off (see computer model above) and will just fit through the 8 ft. tri-fold doors that are going in the hole! That way it comes out of the workshop and doesn't fall into the pond that is just out of shot.

I also like the idea of having a canopy over the doors so I can perhaps sit in my rocking chair in a dry spot.

I found some tri fold doors on eBay this week that are an absolute bargain for £150 less gear, but with a bit of help from a forum member (thanks Trev) I can source that at a good price too.

Colin

 

[Berncarpenter]

Hi Colin I also like the open corner but whats holding the roof up ? I noticed you had a corner post there in the plan and at the start of the build .

Cheers Bern

 

[colinc]

The eaves beam is designed for the cantilever. The post was there just to align the corner during erection.

Colin

 

[Berncarpenter]

The eaves beam is designed for the cantilever. The post was there just to align the corner during erection.

Colin

Ahh i see thanks , Cheers Bern 8)

 

[colinc]

Hi,

I bought a set of brand new glazed doors and a frame without gear off Ebay for £150 + shipping and with the help of forum member Trevsf1 I was able to identify and buy the door gear. I have now fitted the door frame and doors. They work really well and I made a massive saving in cost compared to buying a set of doors through normal channels. I just need to find time and dry weather to make more progress with my 'shed'.

Here is a picture, sorry about the quality:



I haven't trimmed around the door frame yet, and hopefully the windows will arrive next week..........

I do now have some spare track and rollers, so if anyone else is contemplating fitting a set of these (I think that the Ebay vendor still has plenty of doors) do get in touch.

regards,

Colin

 

[carlb40]

Looking good there.

I fitted some cladding to a house a few years ago. Awful stuff to work with. It would cut very easily with a hand saw - nice and soft. Cutting with machine tools was a nightmare. Blunted blades in minutes. In fact i had to cut one 4'' hole for a vent and the teeth on jigsaw blade were worn back to the shank. :shock:

And the smell, it was like fibreglass and cement. Didn't taste nice :lol:

 

[colinc]

Hi,

not found Cedral too bad to work with. I used a diamond blade in a mini grinder to cut it - just makes lots of dust.

I wore out a countersink bit very quickly doing the screw holes.

Looks ok and was the only solution I could find that looked ok in the garden and was non-combustible.

regards,

Colin

 

[carlb40]

Hi,

not found Cedral too bad to work with. I used a diamond blade in a mini grinder to cut it - just makes lots of dust.

I wore out a countersink bit very quickly doing the screw holes.

Looks ok and was the only solution I could find that looked ok in the garden and was non-combustible.

regards,

Colin

Does sound like the same or similar stuff. Lost count of the drill bits it blunted. Fortunately the foreman let me use his dewalt SMS so blunted his blades not mine :lol:

I agree it does look good from a distance and seems weather resistant.

 

[eoinsgaff]

I have installed cement fibre panels on the exterior of my own house (just the porch) and I had to buy a special power-saw blade and drill bit. The blade had 4 teeth. Not 4tpi but four teeth in total. Excellent quality and lasted perfectly but cost about €150 for the two items.

Eoin

 

[colinc]

For cutting I used a Bosch diamond disc in my 4-1/2 inch grinder. Cost £10 from Screwfix for a pair and still using the first one.

Drills, I just touch up on the grinder to get an edge back. It was only countersinking that caused any issue.

regards

Colin

 

[siggy_7]

Very impressive Colin. Like you I would like to put a workshop within 1m of a boundary and I'm trying to work out whether a steel frame/fibre cement clad building is the way to go over masonry block construction. Whereabouts did you get the frame made, and for someone who is not in the industry how easy/cost effective would it be?

 

[colinc]

Siggy,

The frame can come from any of a number of suppliers, but I have modelling software that makes it very easy to do, but very few people would have that. Send me a pm and details of what you want to build. Perhaps I can help.

Colin,

 

[colinc]

Hi,

Just a quick update. Progress has been slow recently and not helped by a accident doing a fencing job involving my right hand and a sledge hammer! Four weeks on I am starting to think it is going to be ok.

Here is an outside picture:


It does have guttering on one side now and the door surround is tidy now.

Internally I have insulated the walls which need lining, am planning to use osb and plasterboard (fireboard). The ceiling is now counter-battened ready for insulation and finish. I am in a quandary there as would like tongue and groove but plasterboard is cheaper.

Wiring is currently on my mind, but I have a helpful electrician to guide me, just not quite decided what to put in.

Also, the floor is to be decided. I'd prefer wood but I am planning to do some TIG welding on aircraft bits so am concerned that it's fire-safe. I would really appreciate advice on this.

Regards,

Colin

 

[stevep]

Colin, first of all congratulations on a lovely looking workshop. As for advice on the floor and tig welding in there, I don't see a major issue really. As you are well aware, there isn't sparks flying every where when tig welding so I would just buy a couple of welding blankets, put on the floor when needed and then just carry on. Just ensure you use good welding practice like not leaving the building for at least 30 minutes after finishing welding, fire extinguishers at hand and being careful where you put your filler wire ends ( drop them into a metal bin/bucket ) etc . That way you should be fine.