My first thread….table saw, sander and dust extractor….be gentle….

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A gym and any power tools is like oil and water….they don’t mix. Any power tool, bandsaw or table saw will produce a lot of dust regardless of dust extraction. A Planner Thicknesser is equally as bad at throwing out dust. Yes, I’m expecting push back from some members, but, as Im happy to wipe any surface with a white cloth after they have had a good session with a machine to prove my point. Saw dust and a sweaty gym are not to be experienced!!
So you either divide the garage with a stud wall or stick to hand tools.
I made an awful lot with just hand tools including a full bedroom fit out when I was younger. The first thing to make is a good solid bench, many styles just pick one. The front 150mm, 6” is critical. It needs to be thick and flat to allow you to flatten and thickness stuff by hand successfully. You will only get stuff as flat as the surface you place it on.
Buy good quality handsaws (Rip, panel and a tenon) like say Thomas Flynn or secondhand and learn how to sharpen them. About 3 chisels, 1/4, 1/2 and 1” or 1 1/4” and a No4 plane. A mallet (which you make) a hammer and a drill and you can make a huge variety of stuff.
I’m making a workbench with Nick at Wharfedale…so hopefully that will be the solid foundation to build some rudimentary skills with hand tools on…..good advice. Thx.
 
Bang on really
A gym and any power tools is like oil and water….they don’t mix. Any power tool, bandsaw or table saw will produce a lot of dust regardless of dust extraction.
Woodworking is like cooking in that you cannot make a cake without breaking eggs and you cannot cut and shape wood without dust, all you can do is reduce the amount and don't let it build up. With power tools you could spend a fortune on Festool as there claim to fame is keeping the dust down but equally you can use a local bin extractor with tools and reduce the dust but might need to wear a mask with fine dust like MDF. It is all to easy to go overboard with a large fancy extraction system like you find in commercial shops but there are cheaper ways to achieve a suitable objective and then buy better machinery with the savings.
 
After giving this some thought I decided to write myself a little table. It might be useful to post it here:
1703929358539.png


If dust extraction is key for your gym kit compatibility then a track saw may be top of the list; its the only tool I have that gives exceptional dust extraction. It has a cowl over the entire blade and when used with a shop vac, like the festool, virtually all the dust is captured. I put a piece of tape over the maintenance hatch too (for blade changes) which completely seals it off.

The convenience column is basically about the fence - but it's a big factor IMO, especially if you want to do any repeat cuts. I love track saws but when doing repeat cuts (lets say 10 cuts at 30mm thick) a track saw is accurate but a little faffy in reality. With a table saw or band saw, you set the fence at 30mm and then simply run your stock through it 10 times, you don't even need to turn the saw off between cuts. Because of this I often find myself sacrificing accuracy and using the bandsaw over the track saw, just because its so much faster / more convenient. If you have your track on a hinge, it would be a closer call, but I don't. If you have a table saw, which I don't, then you sort of get the best of both worlds.

Martin
 
doing repeat cuts (lets say 10 cuts at 30mm thick) a track saw is accurate but a little faffy in reality.
I used to have the same issues, but I found a few solutions to this from various sources.

1. A parallel guide (home made to keep cost down) can really speed up the setup on track saws. Steve Maskery has a video on how to make this.

2. A bit more investment but MFT style top and a few dogs are so good for accuracy, angled cuts and repeatability. Yes, it's difficult to achieve this without the parf guide or something but one can either buy an MFT top off eBay for little money or borrow the parf guide from a member for beer money etc and get some cheap dogs too begin with and will give you panel saw accuracy
If you have your track on a hinge, it would be a closer call, but I don't.
I can see why this is appealling, I need to try this.

Also, agree about the comments on dust. At best you can reduce it, not eliminate it. Festool extractor, track saw combo might do well, bandsaw (with a good extraction) a medium second but all other large tools are mega spewers.
 
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After giving this some thought I decided to write myself a little table. It might be useful to post it here:
View attachment 172867

If dust extraction is key for your gym kit compatibility then a track saw may be top of the list; its the only tool I have that gives exceptional dust extraction. It has a cowl over the entire blade and when used with a shop vac, like the festool, virtually all the dust is captured. I put a piece of tape over the maintenance hatch too (for blade changes) which completely seals it off.

The convenience column is basically about the fence - but it's a big factor IMO, especially if you want to do any repeat cuts. I love track saws but when doing repeat cuts (lets say 10 cuts at 30mm thick) a track saw is accurate but a little faffy in reality. With a table saw or band saw, you set the fence at 30mm and then simply run your stock through it 10 times, you don't even need to turn the saw off between cuts. Because of this I often find myself sacrificing accuracy and using the bandsaw over the track saw, just because its so much faster / more convenient. If you have your track on a hinge, it would be a closer call, but I don't. If you have a table saw, which I don't, then you sort of get the best of both worlds.

Martin
I think you have marked the tracksaw down pretty badly. Because you can take the saw to the work it’s far more convenient. Unless you have a large panel saw cutting boards on a table saw is a pain and impossible on a bandsaw. Take a look at the benchdogs site to see the attachments available for tracksaws that add repeatability and rapid alignment.
For me at least a tracksaw rates higher than both a table saw and a bandsaw. This might be because I use it for sheet goods which is what they are designed for.
 
I think you have marked the tracksaw down pretty badly. Because you can take the saw to the work it’s far more convenient. Unless you have a large panel saw cutting boards on a table saw is a pain and impossible on a bandsaw. Take a look at the benchdogs site to see the attachments available for tracksaws that add repeatability and rapid alignment.
For me at least a tracksaw rates higher than both a table saw and a bandsaw. This might be because I use it for sheet goods which is what they are designed for.
I agree.
I think I should have labelled the convenience column differently. Maybe call it 'repeat cuts' or just 'fence' because that's what I was meaning really.
 
1703937383002.png

Looking at your table I would make some changes, you cannot class all bandsaws or mitre saws as being the same because some will out perform others but assuming generic terms then the bandsaw is as good as the table saw doing what it does so they are all accurate. The tracksaw is also very convenient as it can break down full sheets unlike the table saw so again they are all convenient in there own ways. The tracksaw can also cut angles and crosscut especially when using something like this from Woodpeckers Adjustable Track Square - Wood Workers Workshop

1703937769523.png


or this TSO Products MTR-18 Precision Triangle
 
It’s been refreshing to get on a site and get some good and thought through answers to what was a very newbie question which this site must get a lot. i was expecting ’learn how to use the search function, dummy’ type answers! So many thanks to all and bodes well tbh.

Having read all the advice thought im half joking when i say that i think me best bet is initially to find someone local to me in Harrogate who has some of the kit listed then ask if they mind if i use it to get a feel for stuff as i need to cut down wood. My initial projects will be small skills learning so makes sense not to just jump straight in. Any volunteers much appreciated!

happy New Year all!
 
Festools is about )£150 , there’s a couple on Banggood even cheaper .the woodpeckers parallel guide system is approx £550 -£600 but the Banggood is around £80/£90 . I’ve been suprised a few times on what you can get from Banggood - all made from aluminium and the quality is better than you might think ..
 
Benchdogs do a rail square that is very good, I have heard. Also some options on banggood.
 
Sorry @Jameshow I disagree. A table saw is not an essential tool for those tasks. It will make it easier/faster but it was only in the later 1800’s that they became common and not until the mid 1900’s that it became a hobbiest tool. Those tasks were carried out for generations before that.

@Jfw2708 If you want a powered saw a bandsaw can be a much more useful tool. If you get a decent sized one you can resaw material. Resawing, to me at least, is the task that benefits the most from power assistance. You can also use it for cutting to size and even cutting joints although, in my opinion, those are more fulfilling done by hand.
Bandsaw - handy to have. But how handy when its needed to split 8x4 boards ?, not handy at all.

So yes, you need a tablesaaw, as well as a bandsaw, as well as a planer/thicknesser, as well as a cross cutting machine like a powered mitre saw.
Drill stand or pillar drill is nice too, as well as a morticer and very handy to have is an oscillating bobbin sander.
Mitre trimmer is very nice to own.
Router table - Thumbs up.

Huge pile of other bits most of which will see use once a decade, but nice to have all the same.

But No1 start off with a tablesaw.
 
I’ve been suprised a few times on what you can get from Banggood - all made from aluminium and the quality is better than you might think ..
But you do play Russian roulette, the surprise is free.

This one is £390 from WWW and is as shown and made from alloy.

1704064048829.png
1704064202247.png


Or this one from Amazon for £23 and they look identical because it is the same base image but the one on the left is plastic with this review

1704064306472.png


The choice is yours, go cheap and get cheap or buy once with confidence and get quality.
 
On some items maybe , the drill guide you show from woodpeckers is indeed quality but the other cheapo one was the subject of a recent thread . I don’t just buy tools without first reading reviews and I also use the reviews on utube ( China tools ) . That particular drill guide is around £70 depending on the make / upgrade version

FONSON TOOLS Upgraded All Aluminum Alloy Adjustable Woodworking Drill Locator Guide With 8pcs Extension Rods Flip Stops and Wrench For Positioning Too
£68.53
UK.Banggood

By Google

XIUYI XIUYI Precision Woodworking Multi-Angle Drill Guide with Handles and Positioning Blocks Hole Punch Locator Adjustable Drilling Height Aluminum A
£70.12
https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...yO3OgbuDAxW9g_0HHd9aAjkQwg8oAHoECAcQPw&adurl=
There is also this available from temu but it’s pretty obvious this will be cheap and rubbish plastic as usual buyer beware !!

1pc Portable Woodworking Drill Locator, Drill Guide, Drill Press Stand, Plastic Precision Drilling Guide, Adjustable DIY Furniture Positioning Hand
£15.48
https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...yO3OgbuDAxW9g_0HHd9aAjkQwg8oAHoECAcQOQ&adurl=
I’ve made several purchases from woodpeckers USA and paid the shipping - and sometimes got stung for import taxes etc but always top quality . I’ve also made several purchases from Banggood and I’ve been pleasantly suprised -yes they are often copies but well made copies . They may not have etched markings , the anodising not as thick but they are certainly not cheap and nasty plastic . I have several squares /tri squares etc and they are just as accurate as the woodpecker or bridge city or Moore and wright .I can send any item back if I’m not happy with it but as yet I have not had to .
 
But you do play Russian roulette, the surprise is free.

This one is £390 from WWW and is as shown and made from alloy.

View attachment 172971View attachment 172973

Or this one from Amazon for £23 and they look identical because it is the same base image but the one on the left is plastic with this review

View attachment 172974

The choice is yours, go cheap and get cheap or buy once with confidence and get quality.
You have picked out the two extremes of the spectrum there, but there is a middle ground that represents the sweet spot for most people. Bang good occupy this space on the market, and a few others. There are plenty of YouTube channels out there helping us consumers find the right blend of price and quality, like Dennis at hooked on wood for example.

Having said that, I like benchdogs products and I'm happy to pay for them for some items, but for many tools I would be looking at the bang good part of the market as I can get 95% of the quality at 25% of the price for a lot of things. And that makes a lot of sense when you have a limited budget and can't afford to buy everything you want.

You are right that there is plenty of rubbish out there, but no need to throw the baby out with the bathwater; simply do your research and avoid ending up with junk.

Martin
 
Hi all,
probably one of the most asked questions on here…and one that has evaded my newbie search skills. So, having not done any woodworking since 3rd year woodwork class 40 years ago I’ve done a couple of days course with the excellent Nick at Wharfedale Workshop and I’m leaping into woodworking! I’ve bought some hand tools on eBay and thinking of getting a table saw (probs DeWalt 7485) and a random orbit sander…and maybe at some point a planer/thicknesser. So based on my woodworking space being in a part of a double garage (shared with our home gym and a few bikes..) and then fact i will be doing a few hobby projects what is the general consensus on dust extraction suggestions. Should i get a Henry? A big brand basic dust extractor….something else..? I’m not averse to spending money, being in the pay cheap, pay twice mentality, but also dont want to waste money on overkill equipment. Any advice to a confused newbie would be much appreciated. Thx.
Henry good for the ROS and as a general purpose vacuum cleaner (i.e. low volume high pressure - LVHP) - connected to the tool with a hose and ideally with an auto on/off switch.
TS and planer best with HVLP extractor such as this Axminster Workshop AW82E Dust Extractor - 230V but the bigger the better.
 
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