Mitre/Glue up nightmare

[woodbloke]

Hi

To get back to the clamping problem. I use mitres quite a bit in carcase furniture, reinforcing them with biscuits or dominoes, so I need a positive way of clamping them up. I use shaped clamping jigs clamped to the pieces then an F or G clamp across the corner as shown here clamping up a frame.

This is one way of cramping mitred frames and as others have said, however big the job, you need two pairs of matched pieces, notwithstanding the different jointing methods used at the corners...but Chris, what happened to the cramping block inside the frame? - Rob

 

[tomatwark]

The problem with that Roger was that I ended up with more test pieces than finished pieces!
Now what I do is limit the box sides to a certain range of thicknesses, then, having finally obtained a sutable setting I use a depth mic to measure the position of the cutter relative to the table and to the fence.
These are contained in my 'little black book' and I only have to to set to those dimesnsions to guarantee a fit first time!

Roy.

Roy

Black book

That takes way the fun bit of swearing, stamping your feet , throwing bits of wood and blaming the apprentice or dog if you have one. :lol: :lol:

Tom

PS

I have to admit I have one as well.

 

[Digit]

You're a nasty evil man Tom! :lol:

Roy.

 

[Mr T]

but Chris, what happened to the cramping block inside the frame? - Rob

I might be showing my ignorance here, I don't understand Rob.

Chris

 

[woodbloke]

but Chris, what happened to the cramping block inside the frame? - Rob

I might be showing my ignorance here, I don't understand Rob.

Chris

Unless I'm mistooken, the metal faces of the 'G' cramps are bearing directly against the inside edge of the timber...I'd normally insert a scrap of mdf or similar - Rob

 

[Mr T]

Yes you caught me out there Rob! I would normally use clamping blocks all round. That was just a quick set up using scrap and I forgot the blocks.

Talking of clamping blocks take a look at these deluxe versions:

The front is leather the back is 9mm mdf with a rare earth magnet embedded in it. The blocks stick to the clamp heads so you don't need three hands to clamp up!

More in my blog http://www.christribe.co.uk/blog/help-with-clamping/00094.html

Is it clamp or cramp?

Chris

 

[tomatwark]

Yes you caught me out there Rob! I would normally use clamping blocks all round. That was just a quick set up using scrap and I forgot the blocks.

Talking of clamping blocks take a look at these deluxe versions:

The front is leather the back is 9mm mdf with a rare earth magnet embedded in it. The blocks stick to the clamp heads so you don't need three hands to clamp up!

More in my blog http://www.christribe.co.uk/blog/help-with-clamping/00094.html

Is it clamp or cramp?

Chris

Chris

When I was an apprentice I was told you are always learning doing this job.

That is a fantastic idea and so simple as well.

I might just have to buy some magnets and pinch it.

I always call them sash cramps.

This may be one of those regional variations.

Tom

 

[Lowlife]

Pure genius!

I was struggling with sash cramps and blocks of MDF just this morning, ended up using double sided tape to stick the blocks to the jaws temporarily, having seen this I will make a set of magnetic ones this afternoon though.

 

[Mr T]

Damn it! Should have patented the idea.

Chris

 

[woodbloke]

Yes you caught me out there Rob! I would normally use clamping blocks all round. That was just a quick set up using scrap and I forgot the blocks.

Talking of clamping blocks take a look at these deluxe versions:

The front is leather the back is 9mm mdf with a rare earth magnet embedded in it. The blocks stick to the clamp heads so you don't need three hands to clamp up!

More in my blog http://www.christribe.co.uk/blog/help-with-clamping/00094.html

Is it clamp or cramp?

Chris

Cramp here Chris. That's a bit of Northern cunning wot I like and may very well be making it's way south towards Salisbury! - Rob

 

[Tony Spear]

I'm surprised that nobody has suggested the old 90 degree vee block and Spanish windlass for cramping mitres.

I've got several sets of those in plastic, cost a couple of quid each!

IIRC Axminster do a set of these with a nylon ratchet strap for around a fiver!

 

[Digit]

but much woodwork can be done with no gadgets at all,

True, but why do things the hard way?

Roy.

 

[Jacob]

but much woodwork can be done with no gadgets at all,

True, but why do things the hard way?

Roy.

Why do them at all?

 

[Digit]

Good point Jacob, but having decided to do them, why do them the hard way.
It's an unfortunate fact that a machine will not only produce the job more rapidly but it will also produce it more accurately.
Unless you're a Luddite of course, or a masochist perhaps.

Roy.

 

[Jacob]

Good point Jacob, but having decided to do them, why do them the hard way.
It's an unfortunate fact that a machine will not only produce the job more rapidly but it will also produce it more accurately.
Unless you're a Luddite of course, or a masochist perhaps.

Roy.

Why learn to play the piano (etc) when you could just put a disc on?

The most likely reason somebody would be making stuff without gadgets is because they haven't got them. So it's simpler than you think.
And there is the pleasure to be had in hand making - which can also be quite fast and accurate, and has a quality (in the product) of it's own.

A committed hand tool user could do the mitre lap box joint with rebate/shoulder planes.

 

[Digit]

Why learn to play the piano (etc) when you could just put a disc on?

You are assuming that you have the disc!

The most likely reason somebody would be making stuff without gadgets is because they haven't got them.

See above comment.

A committed hand tool user

Which is exactly my point, a committed hand tool user, as opposed to someone who does not have machines etc.
Like owning a car then insisting on walking, a Luddite or a masochist.
My tools and jigs will produce box sides to engineering accuracy and mitres that are as near 45 degrees as the router cutter makers produce their cutters, and more quickly than hand work.
And I enjoy the satisfaction of having made the tools etc and I use hand tools as well, to the extent of having made my own planes, all of 'em.

Roy.

 

[Modernist]

I can do it with a shoulder plane but I'd rather use a LA Jack on a mitre shooting board as perfection is something to which I can only aspire :lol: :lol: .

 

[Jacob]

But you have to make a mitre shooting board. Serious chicken and egg scenario!

 

[Modernist]

Actually I think you could do your false mitre nicely with a block, or better, skew block.

I should have had a mitre shooting board anyway and thanks to this I now do.

My caution in this case is the uniqueness of the piece of timber which has a lot of history for the eventual recipient.

 

[Lons]

Surely, the conclusion guys is that everyone is right in that we're all different and we learn through experience which methods we prefer to use.

That depends also on a number of things such as machinery / tooling / handtools available and very much by the pressure of time available to do the project.
Certainly I approach payng work very differently to "hobby" stuff. I want quality for both but I need to make money from the former so speed is an issue.

That aside - I've just started an oak "sort of dining table cum jigsaw table" :roll: for my wife. around 1350 x 900, I'ts being made out of offcuts and will have a top out of leftover 25mm solid kitchen surface from our recent upgrade. Sounds hideous but hopefully not, however, lack of time is an issue and it will be rougher than my usual work so don't know yet whether I dare post pics

To get back to the OP post, Have seen this on Rutlands site and look very simple so should be able to make up something similar if stuck.
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/hand-tools/cl ... -it-square

Bob