Making the panelled door.

[Benchwayze]

Hi folks,

Following the forum links, I had a look at the method of making a tongue and grooved door, using stub-tenons. For simple ‘joinery’, in a workshop for instance, that would be okay.

For a stronger joint, I would use a bridle joint. With narrower stiles and rails, a long series router bit would cut a deep enough ‘groove’ in the ends of the stiles. If you don’t have a long bit, it’s okay to have a tenon, that isn’t quite full width, within reason.

Tip… To centre a groove, using the router table:

Choose a cutter, which is the same size as the panel thickness.
Adjust the fence, so the router will cut a groove slightly off-centre, (Easy by eye) working from the face-side first on all pieces.
Reverse the workpieces and run them over the cutter again.
This will give you a centred groove in each piece, that will allow a panel to ‘float’, without the need to mark the stiles and rails.

Don't off-set the first cut by too much, as obviously, the 'margin' will be doubled when you reverse the timber.

Hang your rule on a cup-hook!

I thought his might help.

John

 

[johnnyb]

one point about this method is to take extra care not to climb cut. this can snatch the piece and your hand into the cutter. despite the dangers of dado blades i find cutting dados/grooves using this method much more dicey. i much much prefer a slot cutter esp hd ones ala wealden(8mm). use exactly the same technique to centre the groove.

 

[Benchwayze]

Hi Johnny,

I agree entirely.
However, maybe I didn't explain properly.
I am not suggesting feeding the timber from the other side of the cutter.

I meant turn the workpiece around so the opposite side is against the fence, and make another, normal pass.

This centres the groove, and of course widens it fractionally, to give breathing space for the panel. You could use the same principle with a slot-cutter, but with an overhead mounted router, the work would be held to the table, face-side down first cut, then flipped over for a second cut. Yes?
It's difficult to explain what I see, and I don't have any pics. Maybe I should set-up and demonstrate. Gawd, I never thought of that! #-o

You can centre tenons with this 'reversing' idea, but I generally use slip-tenons, or cut them on the bandsaw these days.

Sorry if I messed up my explanation.
John

 

[johnnyb]

your method is absolutely safe i hasten to add BUT sometimes people move the fence instead of turning the workpiece around. it is something you only tend to do once... i still hold that groovers are better and safer.