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gidon

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Hi all

I have asked this before (kind of) but on another group - and now having got around to getting some wood I can't find the responses I got!

Anyhow I quite fancy making a new front door. I really can't gauge how difficult it's going to be and can't find much information on it (diagrams, measurements etc). I have bought enough (I hope) 2" Am Wh Oak and have a fair bit of 1" oak as well. I know GW had an article this month about building doors, and it had some useful pointers. But there was a fair bit I didn't understand and it wasn't the sort of door I'm after - which is a more conventional front door - with some glazing but mostly panelled - like some of these.

So does anyone have any pointers to some good books, or some info on their own experiences. I'm guessing the hardest bit will be getting the long lengths of timber straight - with my limited machining capacity and size of workshop.

Cheers

Gidon
 

Alf

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Gidon,

I'm betting George Ellis' Modern Practical Joinery would have the info you need. I think Chris has it, and would be able to confirm or deny! :D I see Amazon has it as limited availability, but I would expect Stobart Davies to have some, or else secondhand via Bookfinder.

Cheers, Alf
 

Manny

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Hi Gidon
I made some panelled doors last year but tey were internal softwood. As Alf suggested the George Ellis book had all the info, I allso got some invaluble advice from the folks on UK woodworking.
At the time I didn't have a planer/thicknesser, it was a nightmare trying to get timber that was straight and not twisted I also found that with pre planed timber there could be up to 2mm variation in thickness even from the same merchant.
The most stressful time was glueing up (as usual) where its easy to overlook obvious things ie that the door is not twisted.

Good luck[/u]
 

Aragorn

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Hi Gidon
I make doors every week. If you need any specific pointers feel free to ask!
An essential first step is getting really straight and square stiles and rails!


Cheers
Aragorn
 

gidon

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Thanks Aragorn. Do your designs come from your head or do follow some guidelines. My biggest concern is whether my p/t (Scheppach 260) will have a long enough bed to get the stiles dead straight. Do you buy the wood already planed - if not what do you use to get the timber straight.
Do you tend to go for m&t joints throughout?
Cheers
Gidon
 
A

Anonymous

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hello gidon.
You could try the local library for reference books ,also "Joyce .The technique of furniture making ." covers door setting out . I suggest you make or buy support stands to help with the preparation of materials,I have been using Dewalt P/T 260 for some time to make joinery and furniture . If your door is external you need to use mortice and tenons .
regards
Teabag.
 

Aragorn

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Hi Gidon
I do come up with the designs myself, but it is usually based on Victorian styles, and where necessary I may be matching the proportions to an existing door.
I had the HMS260 up until earlier this year, and I did struggle to get 2 metre timbers dead straight with its shorter bed. It can be done though! Now I have the Jet 60A and have no problems getting 2-3 metre timbers straight and flat.
I never buy hardwood ready planed - one bad experience of that a while ago put me off forever.
Definitely use M&Ts throughout - preferably through-tenons and wedged where possible - no other way for a long lasting door!

Cheers
Aragorn
 

gidon

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Thanks teabag, aragorn - somehow missed these posts.

I was machining some pretty long lengths at the weekend for another project - and was in desperate need of another support stand!

Another thing - are you very selective with the timber you use? I did try and look at a few boards for straight grained oak but always feel a little under pressure in timber merchants! Somebody at work said it was crucial that you select the right timber for an external door else it will twist and all sorts. I am sure this is correct to a degree, but I can't imagine the average joiner making doors spends ages sorting through his wood pile for just the right piece of wood? And it would be fairly wasteful too?

Thanks again,

Gidon
 

Aragorn

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I have to say that I don't spend ages selecting boards for doors. I think if you can do this it must help, but having boards that are stable, well seasoned, and perfectly straight and true is going to be absolutely fine once made into a door - there will always be movement in timber but the construction of the door will help somewhat, as will fitting it properly in the frame.
The problems I've had with movement in doors that I've made have been with pine and oak, and neither were problems that couldn't be sorted out with a few swipes of a plane.
 
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