Mahogany Longcase - WIP

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Well I have been beavering away again today and initially started by preparing the basic components for the framework of the base of the clock case.

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As you can see from the photo it was a lovely bright sunny morning and the temptation to shut up shop and go for a walk was very tempting but I did resist and proceeded to mortice and tenon the components

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Before taking the parts to the router table and running in the grooves ready to accept the panels and back

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The panels were then machined in a similar manner to that earlier describes and inserted into the frames to form the base section

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Next I looked to get the back of the trunk of the clock made, straight forward mortice and tenon construction again with solid fielded panels as the back will be seen behind the pendulum and weights behind the glass in the case door.

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and the edges of it were rebated to form a tongue

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to fit into a groove routed into the inside edges of the trunk sides

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The basic trunk will now stand on its own, none of the joints in any of the components have been glued yet as various components will reguire inlaying prior to it being glued up.

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I stood the components together, just sitting them on some offcut ply to give you an idea of proportions before I left, obviously it looks rather strange at the moment as having no joining mouldings, or front in the trunk and the head is merely the sides but I think you will get an idea of how it will look once completed.

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It may look as though it is likely to be finished in a few more days but there is a huge amount more to do and I will update again next week as I have just been told by SWMBO that i'm not working tomorrow - what she doesnt know is I wasn't planning to though as taking my lad rough shooting - far more fun than trogging around the shops in Norwich!!!!
 
andersonec":31o6p0w9 said:
Do you have a drawing or is this coming out of your head as you progress?

Andy

Andy, I have made a few clocks similar to this one over the years and have drawings with basic dimensions which I modify for each case, alot of it is being done from memory though.
 
Right over the last couple of days have got a bit more done to the case in between customer visits etc.

The base section of the case was glued up

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Before turning my attention to the trunk, the front frame with the side turnings as well as the sides and back were glued up

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And once dry the rear section was fixed to the sides

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before fixing the front frame to the rest of the trunk carcase

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One the cramps were removed from the trunk, and after fitting a couple of cleats to the inside of the base of the clock case the two were fixed together and the moulding sections already made up were glued into place marrying the two sections together

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The mouldings for the top and bottom of the trunk were made up in three sections, these off-cuts show the end sections

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The pics below show the progress today with the head section and how the case is now looking

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And when I left today I actually felt I was starting to get somewhere!

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Still got to finish the head, get the doors made, the base plynth added and obviously the movement mountings but they can wait for tomorrow!!
 
One thing I ought to comment on is you may have noticed the difference in timber colour between the thicker moulding sections and the carcase framing and panels. The carcase is all Brazilian Mahogany but the thicker boards I have used are actually Kerruing which whilst initially lighter will take a richer stain in due course giving a slight contrast which will really make the split turning and moulding sections stand out from the case when finally polished.
 
Apart from being another inspiring WIP I liked the coments about the eventual colour the timber will end up. I have been caught out a number of times by timber changing colour after I have made a piece. I never expected american poplar (tulip) to end up darker than teak in a piece I made but it did. Obviously you have learned this from experience but is there a resource (book or internet) for the comparative colours/lightness/darkness of timber a year or so after it has been finished?
 
Good to see a WIP on a long clock, always wanted to do one of them but one I missed ever attempting.

Your project and commission is looking superb, timber is nice and clean as well.

Thanks for posting and all those tips.
 
mailee":3hcf74re said:
That is looking very nice Rog. You are certainly whipping along with this one. What finish will it have?

Not 100% sure yet Allan, will do some samples to see what looks best once I get to that stage.

There wont be any updates on this project for a short time as I am committed on other projects all next week.
 
I know we have not got to the 'inner workings' stage yet and that it's a bit of an aside from the wood interest but what's your experience with movement suppliers and the quality, can it be expected to get a lifetimes use out of the modern offerings that don't require a re-mortgage to purchase.
 
How do you find working with Keruing? I have limited experience with hardwoods - mostly some 'mahogany' alike's and a bit of beech, I do have a fair bit of re-claimed keruing thats set aside for my work bench build. To me it seems bloody hard and seems to tear out fairly easily when hand planing - any tips? (other than sharpen the plane and stop moaning :D ).

The clocks coming on great, please keep the pictures coming.

8)
 
No skills":414k3uks said:
How do you find working with Keruing? I have limited experience with hardwoods - mostly some 'mahogany' alike's and a bit of beech, I do have a fair bit of re-claimed keruing thats set aside for my work bench build. To me it seems bloody hard and seems to tear out fairly easily when hand planing - any tips? (other than sharpen the plane and stop moaning :D ).

The clocks coming on great, please keep the pictures coming.

8)

Try one of these with a bed angle of 55 degrees ish ;)

http://www.larryciesla.com/handplane.html
 
CHJ":a05jold0 said:
I know we have not got to the 'inner workings' stage yet and that it's a bit of an aside from the wood interest but what's your experience with movement suppliers and the quality, can it be expected to get a lifetimes use out of the modern offerings that don't require a re-mortgage to purchase.

Chas,

Modern movements are not made like they used to be - entry level Hermle 451's will only give a 10>15 year life - A longcase I made in 1980 has just had its third movement fitted, with that said though the owner is a bit heavy handed with it.

Personally I like the Kieninger movements which are better made and last longer, the HS is a copy of the traditional English movement with a single bell strike - We have one in a longcase in our lounge that I made in 92 and it has never missed a beat and is still keeping perfect time - but you get what you pay for.

I get my movements from Martin Dunn (The Clock Gallery) who has always looked after me very well - A true gent

As for the keruing, I appreciate the grain can be a paid but a good sharp plane or cabinet scraper will easily deal with it!
 
I can also vouch for Martin Dunn, I have used him in the past for the few clocks I have made. (he gave me good advice as a novice clock builder) It is only a 15 minute run to his place from here which was handy.
No updates for a while on the build! At your rate of work that will mean about four hours then. :lol:
 
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