Machining mortices for bridle joints

[patrick]

I have a batch job I am pondering which involves machining mortices in either end of a small piece 160x40x18. the mortices themselves are 40x40x6 forming corner bridles. Hope you have the picture, I have nowhere to host a drawing. (All measurements in MM)

I need to be able to churn these out so my thought was a large 6mm groover on a spindle. I would have to make a jig for the table as I don't have a sliding arm. Several passes would be needed to be safe but 40mm of projection and lack of a proper sliding table has me rather concerned.

Have also considered a jig for the table saw, cutting them end grain down over the blade. Perhaps not the done thing but I am sure I can make a very safe jig for this. Was even considering a d**o blade for this [-X

Does any one have any safer suggestions suitable for a batch run?

Thanks.

 

[Jake]

I don't undertand why you are concerned about the SM, but not the TS?

Both need the same projection, and the former at least you are registering off the widest face.

 

[Steve Maskery]

An open mortice is just a tenon in reverse, so you need an excellent, versatile, guarded, fast and consistently accurate tablesaw tenon jig!
Cheers
Steve

 

[TrimTheKing]

An open mortice is just a tenon in reverse, so you need an excellent, versatile, guarded, fast and consistently accurate tablesaw tenon jig!
Cheers
Steve

:lol: I wonder where he would find one of those....

Cheers

Mark

 

[jasonB]

A wobble saw would be a better long term bet than a dedicated 6mm groover and cheaper than an adjustable groover.

You really only need a simple sledge to clamp the small workpiece to then run that over your spindle table.

Jason

 

[Jake]

An open mortice is just a tenon in reverse, so you need an excellent, versatile, guarded, fast and consistently accurate tablesaw tenon jig!

It's a bit bonkers to do it on the TS with an (excellent but) elaborate jig, as he has a moulder and that's much the better tool for the job.

 

[TrimTheKing]

An open mortice is just a tenon in reverse, so you need an excellent, versatile, guarded, fast and consistently accurate tablesaw tenon jig!

It's a bit bonkers to do it on the TS with an (excellent but) elaborate jig, as he has a moulder and that's much the better tool for the job.

Oooooh, blue touch paper lit, I'm standing back and waiting....



Mark

 

[Steve Maskery]

Actually in many respects Jake is right, but I got the distinct impression that Patrick was reluctant to use the SM and would prefer to use the TS. And it's not that elaborate, actually.

Both ways are good, it's just a matter of which one feels most comfortable, and if you have to make a jig for the SM, just to do that, then you might as well make a jig for the TS that does a lot more.

It's an option, that's all, and in fact you could do that job on the TS with just about any tablesaw tenon jig, and free plans abound.

S

 

[patrick]

Thanks for the replies people. As I thought it's toss up between table and spindle, I was just wondering if there was some alternative I had not thought of.

I think what clinches it is that the spindles where I am based are just about the busiest machines on the floor. I have a good portable saw I don't use much that I can set up and leave with a dedicated jig plus the tooling is going to be cheaper.

I got a good idea how the jig will go together Jake..... but nice try all the same':wink:'

Just as well I have a tenoner for the tenons.