Loose Tenons

[wizer]

I have always wondered about loose tenons. If you're not doing through m&t's (or even if you where) Why would you not use loose tenons? To my mind you save on wood (using offcuts and scrappy bits for tenon stock).

Is this a correct way of thinking? Is there a reason why Loose tenons don't seem to be used nearly as much?

Just wondering, for the sake of conversation..

 

[9fingers]

A loose tenon effectively creates two joints instead of one but with correct fitting and modern glues should do most jobs. Bit like a Domino/mega biscuit really.

I'd still use M&T for max strength for things like table legs, chairs, though.

Bob

 

[DaveL]

WiZeR,

It is one way of overcoming the problem caused by cutting stock without allowing for the length of the tenon. :roll:

 

[Steve Maskery]

Wizer
It's probably historical, in that in order to use loose tenons you have to have a way of cutting mortices into endgrain. Mortisers are designed to cut vertically so you have the limitation of the height of the head from the floor. Given that tenons are on the ends of rails and sometimes those rails are very long (eg dining tables). It's also difficult (though not impossible) to clamp workpieces vertically on such a machine, even if they will fit under it.

So for loose tenons you have to be able to cut horizontally. This is possible by machine with a horizontal mortiser, and these days, on a smal scale anyway, with the Domino. Routers and Dominoes are limited in the size they can cut, however, so whilst they are suitable for much furniture, larger-scale architectural joinery is better attempted with more trad means.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Gower]

WIZeR,
Having taken up woodwork late in life, I have used nothing but loose tenons (Trend Beadlock) , making several tables, hall stands etc. reasonably successfully. Having tried a few test mortise and tenons using hand tools, not very successfully, I chickened out and now use loose tenons all the time. They are so easy to use (must be if I can do it!) and pretty quick. I am in the middle of my first outside project, a garden bench, and will use the Beadlock with polyurethane glue. Let you know how it goes.

Gower

 

[Anonymous]

I would expect that loose tenons are a product of the powered router age and good strong glues. It is easy to cut a couple of mortises with a powered router and slip in tenons ripped on the tablesaw to suit the router cutter diameter.

persoanlly, i prefer the traditional M&T

 

[wizer]

Thanks for the information guys. It seems it's more about tradition than much else.

I guess the problem with mortising end-grain can be overcome with jigs and a HH Router or Horizontal RT.

I like the idea and might try it in an upcoming project.

 

[Shultzy]

I would have though that creating a tenon with the TS and BS was a lot easier than cutting a mortice in the end grain.

 

[wizer]

Assuming your BS and TS are setup correctly. I think in both cases (a lot of cases actually), once you are setup to do that operation then it's simple.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Yes, it all depends on the tooling available to you and how well it is set up.

If your BS is well set up then tenon cheeks are easy to cut and it's a relatively hazard-free way, too.

If you have a good jig for the TS (such as the one I show in the current BW) then that too is effective, safe and accurate.

In both cases you have to deal with the shoulders separately, but it's the cheeks that are the most challenging part.

With loose tenons the big advantage is that that it is a doddle to get a good fit, not just for the cheeks, but for the shoulders all the way round, even on angled joinery such as chair rails. All yo need is a decent router and a jig. Given the fact that many woodworkers buy a router before they buy a TS or BS, it's an easy and successful option for beginners, without compromising strength, provided that it is used in suitable situations.

Cheers
Steve