Lifting MDF (or aaagghhh!!!....my backs gone pop!!)

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Hmmm.

If that were the case maybe, if the ceiling were up to it, perhaps it would be better to use something like a block and tackle / pulley system to lift the board instead.


Possibly overkill but would something like a drywall lifter be of any use? It might be expensive but potentially less painful.
 
Zeddedhed":v4j60uhf said:
Being a regular user of MDF sheets, mostly 18mm, sometimes 25mm and normally Medite ...

I used to do this by just sliding the board over to the bench and then bending down, grabbing the bottom edge and then a big heave and tipping it onto the bench. Turns out that this is the best way to compress discs in your back and tear your rotator cuff, both of which I've now done at least three times in the last 2 years.

Anyway, if anyone has come up with a device or knows of a bit of kit that would aid this then I'd love to know.
Over the years I too have handled a lot of board materials, many of which are heavy. I've also regularly undertaken pretty much the same lifting task as yourself. Perhaps I've been lucky, but I've avoided the problem you describe so far by using a different lifting technique, which is basically, keep the back straight and bend the legs: it's standard advice for lifting heavy objects.

If, as you say, your lifting efforts have resulted in injury a couple of times, it seems likely that someone in the medical or physiotherapy line has been involved in post-injury treatment, and I'd be somewhat surprised if those people hadn't given you lifting advice along similar lines to that mentioned above. Others in this thread seem to be indicating a change in your lifting technique might be a good idea. I agree with them, and that may be all you need: I think it's at least worth exploring, perhaps even before investigating lifting aids of one sort or another. Slainte.
 
Drew this up some time ago but still haven't got round to making it. Not a finished drawing but it shows the basic idea. It would need a bit of care to make sure the pivot is in the right position, and also need some sort of lock or catch to hold it horizontal if it was going to be used as a sheet cutting table.
BoardTrolley.png
 
That'll work, how about a counter balance weight on the top to help it tip?

Shouldn't need a weight. The idea is that the pivots on the swivel top are just a bit more than halfway along, so that there is a bit of bias that makes it want to stay vertical when it has a standard size board on it. Raising it from vertical to horizontal should then mean it can be done with your little finger. It would need some sort of prop or catch if you want to lock it in the horizontal position.

By the way, some people have bought old hospital trolleys from eBay to move things around in the workshop, but they don't help much with moving boards from vertical to horizontal. Some of them have very good hydraulic lifts on them though.
 
You can use a loop of rope hooked on the bottom corners to carry sheets. When I buy mdf I have it cut into thirds before delivery. If you generally use bits smaller than that it saves a lot of trouble.
 
I bought the Roughneck 32600 Gorilla Gripper when I constructed my kitchen. I have a back problem but it was ok even after lifting 40 8x4 sheets on to my cutting table.
 
The responses keep coming in - I guess this is something that a lot of us have given thought to or have struggled with.

To answer some of the questions/statements.....

Cutting on the floor sounds like a sensible option on the face of it, however what I neglected to mention is that due to years of bodily abuse as a hod carrier as a younger man and a high speed unplanned mountain bike/tractor interface several years ago my knees are also shot, so kneeling for any length of time is not an option.

The same is true for bending at the knees - not easy. Not impossible but not easy.

My physio has indeed lectured me on lifting techniques and I try and ensure that a straight back is maintained at all times but just getting down to grab the bottom of a sheet and then straightening up is pretty painful.

The various lifting aids cited may or may not work but thanks to the generosity of Glynne I'll get to try the principal out for little outlay. If it works then whoopee!. If not then I guess it's time to build one of the plywood/timber jobbies suggested.

Thanks again for all your answers and suggestions - much appreciated.
 
I am no youngster any more and I do suffer with a bad back due to an injury many years ago. From what I can interpret from the above posts everyone seems to be lifting the board on it's long edge onto the bench? I have my sheets stacked on end in a rack with a 2' base so I can just tilt it to get it moving out of the rack. I then lift the board holding each edge of the long axis leaning it on my cheek to keep it vertical. i then place it along side my bench (out feed table) and then bend and pull at each side toward the bottom pushing my head on the face of the board tilting it onto the bench. All it takes is for me to lean against the board to stop the bottom skating out as it is lifted. I have found this to be the easiest way of getting a full sheet from vertical to horizontal. HTH. :wink:
 
I have always found that manoeuvring 8x4s is all about a relationship with gravity and balance. Where possible keep them vertical and 'walk them on their corners. From this point it is also easy to get your hand in the middle of the board, and keeping your arm straight use it as a pivot point to get the long edge horizontal, from where it is easy to tip the board onto the bench.

It's when you start bending down for things without beding your knees that problems usually arise, let the weight of the board do the work.
 

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