Ledge and brace door.

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whiskywill

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Is there a "correct" way to hang a ledge and brace door?

Like this -

or this -

Sorry about the neck twisting first photograph. I couldn't rotate it.
 
The first picture is better. The braces should lean in to the opening so that they support the weight of the door in compression. i.e. the highest point of the braces should be on the side without the hinges.

In the second picture, the braces are being stressed in tension, which wood doesn't excel at.
 
The braces are intended to run up from the hinge side to support the outside edge. The ones on the bottom door appear to have been screwed in place, so will have some effect but not the full one. It's common practice to supply the braces loose so the door can be hung on either side and the braces are fitted to suit. Ita also possible to put one brace in each direction and discribe the result as being suitable for either hand.
 
I remember it by remembering that the ledge and brace should look like a shelf attached to a wall... if that's of use to anyone.
 
The ledges are best full length if the hinges are mounted that side. Unfortunately ready made ledge and brace doors have the ledges cut short to clear the door stops in case they are fitted that way round.

T hinges are a bit of a pain, usually they need the architrave cutting around, or over. Some hinges will allow to be fitted on the inside face of a liner avoiding this.
 
Ledge and brace door in a bathroom? I would be interested to see if the humidity swells the door shut due to lack of panels.
 
Biliphuster":3nkelzyh said:
Ledge and brace door in a bathroom? I would be interested to see if the humidity swells the door shut due to lack of panels.
Should be fine if properly made (and the right way up!) i.e. no glue anywhere, no screws (except the hinges) just clenched nails. Is then flexible.
 
Definitely the first photo. If I had a quid for every time I've seen a L&B door hung the wrong way, I'd be a very rich guy.

As stated above, the purpose of the brace is to 'brace' and stop the door sagging down at the lock/outer face. The brace should always run or point down to the hinge.

Jonny
 
Jacob":3qgxoqpp said:
Should be fine if properly made (and the right way up!) i.e. no glue anywhere, no screws (except the hinges) just clenched nails. Is then flexible.

A new L&B garden gate is on my to do list, had to go and research clenched nails, they look fun!
 
Fitzroy":2yf7b7wt said:
Jacob":2yf7b7wt said:
Should be fine if properly made (and the right way up!) i.e. no glue anywhere, no screws (except the hinges) just clenched nails. Is then flexible.

A new L&B garden gate is on my to do list, had to go and research clenched nails, they look fun!
Main thing is its very fast. If all is prepared and cut to size you can make a door in 20 minutes of frantic hammering
 
Fitzroy":2agkwz7o said:
A new L&B garden gate is on my to do list, had to go and research clenched nails, they look fun!

I've got one book where instructions are given for knocking up garden trellis; a heavy steel bar is placed behind the workpiece as the nails are put in from the front side, so they "auto-clench" on the rear side.

Probably not neat or consistent enough for indoor work, but good enough for trellis!

BugBear
 


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