Lathe tool sharpening recommendations

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Sachakins

The most wasted of days is one without woodwork
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Hi,
My Titan 8" bench grinder is starting to shake, rattle and roll itself into oblivion.
Going to try to strip and sort out it's problems, but think it's in its death throws!

Incase I don't sort it, Looking for some recommendations please.
The new sharpening system replacement will be for grinding my lathe tools only, except my very few carbide inserts. Budget max under £250.

So should I go down the bench grinder route again, (Cheaper option @£100) like the
Record Power 8" Bench Grinder Tool Sharpening Machine with 40mm Whitestone
https://www.yandles.co.uk/record-po...sharpening-machine-with-40mm-whitestone/p8401

Or down the whetstone/wetstone? route, like the Record Power 8" Wetstone Sharpening System / Grinder Package C/W Diamond Dresser,
https://www.yandles.co.uk/record-po...tem-grinder-package-cw-diamond-dresser/p20370
Choice doesn't have to be Record Power, they were just the two easiest examples to find, but max spend can only be £225-£250.
Cheers
 
Take both wheels, nuts and washers off the Titan. Turn it on, does it still shake, rattle and roll? Then turn it off and see if it stops quickly or spins for several minutes. If there is no SR&R when it is running and it takes a long time to wind down there is likely nothing wrong with the grinder itself. If it does and stops quickly then the bearings might need changing. Put one grinding wheel on only and repeat the exercise. Now if it shakes dress the wheel to make it round again. Mark the wheel, washers, shaft and take it off. Repeat with the other wheel at the other end. Put the first wheel back on the marked locations and dress the wheels lightly and you won't have anymore vibrations. Now if you are just itching to spend some money then go ahead and buy a new grinder. 😉

Pete
 
Pretty much what Pete said. An out of balance stone could be all that wrong.
If you do have to replace the whole thing a regular grinder is still best for turning tools. A wet stone sharpener will also do a good job but it takes so long. I tried it years ago but now its a shelf ornament as I went back to the bench grinder.
Regards
John
 
Hi,
My Titan 8" bench grinder is starting to shake, rattle and roll itself into oblivion.
Going to try to strip and sort out it's problems, but think it's in its death throws!

Incase I don't sort it, Looking for some recommendations please.
The new sharpening system replacement will be for grinding my lathe tools only, except my very few carbide inserts. Budget max under £250.

So should I go down the bench grinder route again, (Cheaper option @£100) like the
Record Power 8" Bench Grinder Tool Sharpening Machine with 40mm Whitestone
https://www.yandles.co.uk/record-po...sharpening-machine-with-40mm-whitestone/p8401

Or down the whetstone/wetstone? route, like the Record Power 8" Wetstone Sharpening System / Grinder Package C/W Diamond Dresser,
https://www.yandles.co.uk/record-po...tem-grinder-package-cw-diamond-dresser/p20370
Choice doesn't have to be Record Power, they were just the two easiest examples to find, but max spend can only be £225-£250.
Cheers
What's your opinion of the titan bench grinder for sharpening gouges and chisels? I've got a very tight budget and have been considering this machine.
 
What's your opinion of the titan bench grinder for sharpening gouges and chisels? I've got a very tight budget and have been considering this machine.
It's been an ok grinder for a few years.
Still can't mine vibration free, had it apart and I think it's just a little wear on many parts, also i prefer a wider wheel for bowl gouges for swept back grinds and titan only 16mm wide. Tried fitting a 25mm wheel, but needs a lot of fettling, which maybe the route cause of not been able to balance it any more, as I ground the shoulder and flange to get a wider wheel on so probably buggered it up myself.
If I was starting again I would save up the pennies and pounds and got the record power one first.

What jig are you using for the grinds, I use a wolverine copy, it's ok but not the best build, but gave decent grind consistency.

So mines going to be made redundant and reincaranted to make a 12" disk sander, but need to reduce its speed, either with PWM or good old fashioned pulleys.

Going to invest in the record power RSBG8 instead now.
Cheers Pete
 
All change, made some temporary bushes/sleeves to sit between outer bearing face and the inside flange washer.
This has given me a better shoulder size for the flange to sit flush against and now sits square to the shaft.
First test run is much improved, can actually grind a bowl gouge with swept back grind without it bouncing around.

So will try turning some new flanges, hopefully really improve true-ness as I noticed that when I got the best position for the flange and tighten finger tight and spin the wheel by hand there wasn't any visible wobble, but after i tighten the nut up, the wobble returns.

So I've got some really dense mahogany and hard oak, so I will try to turn
A) new bush/sleeve spacer (first one wood was a little bit soft)
B) new flange washers.
C) new internal bush for 25mm white fine stone, currently it has two soft plastic bushes.
D) try to shim 60 grit grey stone bore, as ìt has no bush at all, just straight stone onto shaft.

If my sleeve spacer, flange and bush work and improve it more I'll get aluminum or steel ones knocked up.
Don't know if I can enlarge the hole in the grey stone a tad, so I could sleeve it too.

So the Titans P45 and compulsory redundancy is on hold for now.
As I don't want to spend money if I can avoid it.
It will also allow me to more safely fit the 25mm wheel, maybe even size bushes and flanges to take a 40mm wide wheel!

Will update as and when I get the bits turned.
 
I have a 6 inch bench grinder, unbranded and likely 50+ years old given to me 25 years ago by the widow of the original owner. I used it happily for odd jobs, 2 years ago I started turning and quickly realised the grey wheels were not the right thing. I got myself a red wheel (fairly expensive if I recall) which is good for sharpening and a white which is good for reshaping and taking lots off quickly. That made a huge difference. One other change was to change the layout of my work area so the grinder is behind me at the lathe, a quick scraper sharpen just means turning round, take half a pace and start the machine. It's not 'an event' requiring a walk around and turning on lights etc., you just do it quickly and lightly when its needed.

When you see things on the forum, look at you tube, read things, whatever, there are so many answers to what's best. Some 'bests' cost hundreds, some are diy add ons to a grinder.

It will do, I said to myself, until I get something better. Still not got anything, perhaps because of the n squared plus one formula.

The formula is how you caulate the number of opinions where n is the number of turners you ask. Ask one, you get 1x1 +1 = 2 opinions. Ask 2 you get 2 x 2 + 1 = 5 opinions, ask 3 you get 10 and so on. No one is at fault, its because there seems to be no single right answer and everyone has a legitimate viewpoint. Its different of course if you are turning profesionally - cost of system can be valued against your time and you want everything to be quick and certain. As an amateur, the odd error and re-work isn't too much of a burden.

So - with no clear easy answer, I'm sticking with the bench grinder, a home made adjustable tool platform and a home made jig for spindle and roughing gouges. Until I get something better ......
 
What's your opinion of the titan bench grinder for sharpening gouges and chisels? I've got a very tight budget and have been considering this machine.
Hi Did you ever sort out your sharpening system? I ask because I'm reviewing all my stuff and I may be selling a load of sharpening gear that I am unlikely to use now. If you''re still looking drop me a PM and we can discuss what I have available. You're not far from me at Aldershot.
 
Hi Did you ever sort out your sharpening system? I ask because I'm reviewing all my stuff and I may be selling a load of sharpening gear that I am unlikely to use now. If you''re still looking drop me a PM and we can discuss what I have available. You're not far from me at Aldershot.
I bought the Axminster Craft 8inch grinder in the end, now saving to buy the Robert sorby 447 jig set so I can stop using a whetstone to do it by hand (takesnages and just doesntngive as good an edge), will eventually upgrade the stone wheel on the Axi to a can wheel.
 
Would have been a good option but while at a local turning club open day/show/market the other half decided to treat me so made up the shortfall so I could get the Axminster 8inch with a 50mm wide wheel so I can upgrade to a cbn wheel, can't recall what we paid but ordering it there and then I got 10% discount, I've used it for my parting tool, square nose scraper and for a tiny skew I have, it's pretty good but the speed is a bit high so have to be very light with the touch or the steel burns.
 
I bought the Axminster Craft 8inch grinder in the end, now saving to buy the Robert sorby 447 jig set so I can stop using a whetstone to do it by hand (takesnages and just doesntngive as good an edge), will eventually upgrade the stone wheel on the Axi to a can wheel.
OK but I may still have options for you. I'll PM you.
 
350 watts for large 8" wheels is fairly anemic, 500-600 watts is where i'd start (heavy grinders in that class sold here are 10 amps or more (1200w) and a pair of fairly low cost jet taiwan grinders that I've bought are 1320w.

That said, it'll just cost you time. My first grinder was a $40 ryobi grinder from home depot - 6" wheels and 250 watts and I never managed to kill it.

If a grinder starts and runs OK, it's uncommon to wear it out. It sounds like something is ill fitted.
 
I've used it for my parting tool, square nose scraper and for a tiny skew I have, it's pretty good but the speed is a bit high so have to be very light with the touch or the steel burns.
If your tools are HSS (High Speed Steel) overheating from grinding doesn't affect the tools edge holding qualities. If you blue carbon steel you have to carefully grind back beyond the blue by using gentle pressure (which you should anyway) & cool by dipping the tool into cold water.
 
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